Solar help

Bfrankart · 05-01-2022, 09:08 PM

We bought a 2022 northpoint 377rlbh. We had the dealer add 2 solar panels and 2 100ah battle born lithium batteries. If we don't plug in the camper the batteries will die. The only thing running is the residential fridge. What's the best way to troubleshoot the problem? What should the max ah read when batteries say full ? What should the max volts read? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. hoping the dealer can get it figured out... trying to learn as much as I can to inform the dealer of what's going on.

Mr. Goodbar · 05-01-2022, 11:08 PM

explorist.life

check that site out for a lot of great tutorials.

I have your same trailer so if the dealer installed the panels that came with my unit, they are the GoPower overlander 190 watt panels. In the basement, behind the rear center panel, you'll likely have a go Power 100/30 MPPT controller, which would be a pretty nice unit. Battleborn has all the specs you need on their site, and the dealer should have given you the manuals that came with them. They'll have the info you need that indicates what voltage to bulk charge, float voltage, etc. You'll also want to make sure that that info gets put into the interface for the solar charge controller so that it knows exactly the parameters needed to charge your batteries.

I imagine that your unit also came with the 1800 watt inverter. The inverter is taking the DC power, converting it to AC power, and running the fridge. You'll have to check the specs for the fridge and see the power draw of the fridge.. From the sound of it, you don't have enough solar panels to run the fridge (or more accurately, recharge the batteries as they get drawn down by the inverter) so, you can add panels to generate enough wattage to run the fridge just off the panels, or get more batteries to run the fridge longer, but they'll still die without a charging source (shore power/generator/solar) that can keep up with the demand.

jetlag · 05-02-2022, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

We bought a 2022 northpoint 377rlbh. We had the dealer add 2 solar panels and 2 100ah battle born lithium batteries. If we don't plug in the camper the batteries will die. The only thing running is the residential fridge. What's the best way to troubleshoot the problem? What should the max ah read when batteries say full ? What should the max volts read? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. hoping the dealer can get it figured out... trying to learn as much as I can to inform the dealer of what's going on.

This is a very not technical suggestion, we have a similar system except for the Lithium Batteries, and when traveling I will sometimes go to the energy page on the BMPRO App. It is interesting to watch the battery voltage that normally sits at 13.1V when plugged in and charged, fluctuate up and down, say from 12.7-13.3 or so. I am presuming it is the fridge and some of the parasitic draws in the system, and then the solar panels doing their thing. We have so far only traveled just over five and a half hours on our longest day, and batteries and food are just fine.

Stan&Sharon · 05-02-2022, 06:00 AM

I got one of these Victron Smart Shunt (from Amazon) for my camper. The SmartShunt is an all in one battery monitor, only without a display. Your phone acts as the display. The SmartShunt connects via Bluetooth to the VictronConnect App on your phone (or tablet) and you can conveniently read out all monitored battery parameters, like state of charge, time to go, historical information and much more.

kirkelli · 05-02-2022, 08:18 AM

I second the Smart Shunt. The only way you can get the info you are asking is via good volt/amp meter. Did the dealer install one of these? Also, some Charge Controllers have a info screen on the from panel that will tell you charge voltage/current and status of your batteries. I highly recommend the Victron Smart Shunt..

ARoamer · 05-02-2022, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

We bought a 2022 northpoint 377rlbh. We had the dealer add 2 solar panels and 2 100ah battle born lithium batteries. If we don't plug in the camper the batteries will die. The only thing running is the residential fridge. What's the best way to troubleshoot the problem? What should the max ah read when batteries say full ? What should the max volts read? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. hoping the dealer can get it figured out... trying to learn as much as I can to inform the dealer of what's going on.

What size solar panels?

X2, If you are running a residential fridge (120VAC) with an inverter you likely do not have enough solar to keep up.

bluztoo · 05-02-2022, 09:54 AM

You'll likely need over 600 amps of solar and more on batteries if you plan on keeping up with a fridge run off of electric.

GHen · 05-02-2022, 10:29 AM

Agree with above, a residential fridge is very difficult to power when not plugged in (Boondocking). Your battery setup will power you while driving from one RV park to another, but not much more

Possible solutions, More batteries, more solar panels or maybe different options for your refer when Boondocking. Maybe a small propane or 12 volt fridge and a cooler….

Mopar_Earl · 05-02-2022, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GHen

Agree with above, a residential fridge is very difficult to power when Boondocking. Your battery setup will power you while driving from one RV park to another, but not much more

Possible solutions, More batteries, more solar panels or maybe different options for your refer when Boondocking. Maybe a small propane or 12 volt fridge and a cooler….

Also the option of a DC to DC charger with high amp cabling from truck to the trailer. This will allow 30 to 60 amps of charging from the tow vehicle vs 5 or less amps.

Earl

Mopar_Earl · 05-02-2022, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

We bought a 2022 northpoint 377rlbh. We had the dealer add 2 solar panels and 2 100ah battle born lithium batteries. If we don't plug in the camper the batteries will die. The only thing running is the residential fridge. What's the best way to troubleshoot the problem? What should the max ah read when batteries say full ? What should the max volts read? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. hoping the dealer can get it figured out... trying to learn as much as I can to inform the dealer of what's going on.

What is your power requirements from the fridge data tag? That can be used to determine how much battery and solar you need. Also how long do you plan to run the fridge without shoreline power? You will also have DC loads on the batteries as well.

As suggested by others, a smart shunt will tell you a lot of data and is 100% necessary. The shunt alone will show you what your loads are vs solar charge vs how much time you can run at the load you're pulling.

Earl

Bfrankart · 05-02-2022, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

We bought a 2022 northpoint 377rlbh. We had the dealer add 2 solar panels and 2 100ah battle born lithium batteries. If we don't plug in the camper the batteries will die. The only thing running is the residential fridge. What's the best way to troubleshoot the problem? What should the max ah read when batteries say full ? What should the max volts read? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. hoping the dealer can get it figured out... trying to learn as much as I can to inform the dealer of what's going on.

Thanks everyone. Apparently it's just a matter of flipping the shutoff when not plugged in. My wife unplugged with full batteries and the two 190 watt panels are maintaining my fridge and keeping batteries charged to 13 volts. I'm on business and can't verify this. I will update when I get confirmed.

Bfrankart · 05-03-2022, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

Thanks everyone. Apparently it's just a matter of flipping the shutoff when not plugged in. My wife unplugged with full batteries and the two 190 watt panels are maintaining my fridge and keeping batteries charged to 13 volts. I'm on business and can't verify this. I will update when I get confirmed.

My wife sent me a picture of the shutoff. It's just the battery disconnect. Apparently this is working. I don't know all the details and how it's wired. It's a 2022 so maybe they(Jayco) figured out how to do this. I know that you can get the full solar package of 6 panels and batteries and actually boondocks. They even have a option to have the third ac in camper be ran by solar. I don't know all the details but good luck everyone.

jetlag · 05-03-2022, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

Thanks everyone. Apparently it's just a matter of flipping the shutoff when not plugged in. My wife unplugged with full batteries and the two 190 watt panels are maintaining my fridge and keeping batteries charged to 13 volts. I'm on business and can't verify this. I will update when I get confirmed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bfrankart

My wife sent me a picture of the shutoff. It's just the battery disconnect. Apparently this is working. I don't know all the details and how it's wired. It's a 2022 so maybe they(Jayco) figured out how to do this. I know that you can get the full solar package of 6 panels and batteries and actually boondocks. They even have a option to have the third ac in camper be ran by solar. I don't know all the details but good luck everyone.

That is our experience as well, the Batteries stay fully charged when traveling from A to B. We have yet to boondock but would not expect the 2 lead acid batteries to keep up with the electrical loads at night either without a Generator.

bluztoo · 05-03-2022, 07:41 AM

I bypassed my battery isolation manager (BIM) and put in a Victron DC to DC isolated charger. This gives me up to 30 amps to charge house lithium batteries when the engine is on. The other option would have been a smart switch from Progressive Dynamics. This BIM will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged. I felt the DC to DC charger made more sense since the charging would be continuous until fully charged. The worry of course is that you put too strong a demand on your alternator and burn it up without protection. I measured the draw from my alternator to the lithium batteries when connected directly and it was 100 amps which seemed like too much even for 15 minutes.

Mopar_Earl · 05-03-2022, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluztoo

I bypassed my battery isolation manager (BIM) and put in a Victron DC to DC isolated charger. This gives me up to 30 amps to charge house lithium batteries when the engine is on. The other option would have been a smart switch from Progressive Dynamics. This BIM will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged. I felt the DC to DC charger made more sense since the charging would be continuous until fully charged. The worry of course is that you put too strong a demand on your alternator and burn it up without protection. I measured the draw from my alternator to the lithium batteries when connected directly and it was 100 amps which seemed like too much even for 15 minutes.

Correct, never charge lithium batteries directly from an alternator without a DC to DC charger. It will burn it up. Lithium batteries have little to resistance, so they will take everything from the alternator vs lead acid.

Earl

Bfrankart · 05-03-2022, 01:48 PM

My northpoint is going to Essentially be my 2nd home for work purposes. My goal is to have solar as a backup to maintain the fridge if and when the power is out. Obviously I'll have to watch power consumption. It still seems that the 2 panels and 2 lithium 100ah batteries are holding things steady. Keep in mind this is with noone using anything but the fridge.

kirkelli · 05-03-2022, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Correct, never charge lithium batteries directly from an alternator without a DC to DC charger. It will burn it up. Lithium batteries have little to resistance, so they will take everything from the alternator vs lead acid.

Earl

you won't burn up your Lithium batteries with the 5 amp charge line from the vehicles alternator. However, You will defiantly not be able to get Lithium batteries 100% charged in this fashion.. For those that are using a DC-DC charger, make sure to disable the tow vehicles charge line to avoid putting additional stress on your alternator. I intercepted the charge line at the hitch and installed a relay to remove tow vehicle voltage when i switch the DC-DC charger on.

Mopar_Earl · 05-03-2022, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kirkelli

you won't burn up your Lithium batteries with the 5 amp charge line from the vehicles alternator. However, You will defiantly not be able to get Lithium batteries 100% charged in this fashion.. For those that are using a DC-DC charger, make sure to disable the tow vehicles charge line to avoid putting additional stress on your alternator. I intercepted the charge line at the hitch and installed a relay to remove tow vehicle voltage when i switch the DC-DC charger on.

The factory charge lead couldn't hurt anything, it can barely blow a fuse in a short. Lol I'm talking about a high amp charge lead without a DC to DC charger. The lithium wouldn't get harmed either way, it would be the alternator you'd destroy.

Earl

kirkelli · 05-03-2022, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

The factory charge lead couldn't hurt anything, it can barely blow a fuse in a short. Lol I'm talking about a high amp charge lead without a DC to DC charger. The lithium wouldn't get harmed either way, it would be the alternator you'd destroy.

Earl

Most heavy duty tow vehicles have a 220 amp or higher output Alternator. On average, with direct feed with 2/0 wire, you will receive a charging amperage of 70% of the nominal alternator output.

That means that if you have a 220-amp alternator the most amps that the house battery bank receives is 154 amps. But the actual charging rate of a 220-amp alternator is closer to 100 amps. Unless you are running a ton of accessories in the tow vehicle, the Alternator can live up to its duty with no issues.

If you are towing with a smaller truck/utilty vehicle, and direct feed, there may be a concern.

Mopar_Earl · 05-03-2022, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kirkelli

Most heavy duty tow vehicles have a 220 amp or higher output Alternator. On average, with direct feed with 2/0 wire, you will receive a charging amperage of 70% of the nominal alternator output.

That means that if you have a 220-amp alternator the most amps that the house battery bank receives is 154 amps. But the actual charging rate of a 220-amp alternator is closer to 100 amps. Unless you are running a ton of accessories in the tow vehicle, the Alternator can live up to its duty with no issues.

If you are towing with a smaller truck/utilty vehicle, and direct feed, there may be a concern.

Not on lithium. Need a DC to DC charger or you will be buying alternators. Check it out on Google.

Earl

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