Stuck gray tank valve

Highlander · 06-22-2021, 08:58 AM

We have a 2020 Eagle HT 30.5 CKTS. This past weekend packing up to leave, I was not able to pull the gray tank (bathroom) valve in the wet bay. It is totally seized up. Checked behind the panel and the cable is visible, but not much else was done. I can't get in for service until mid-July. Hoping to find a mobile repair as I'd rather not have 20+ gallons of gray water sitting for a month.

Any ideas on the issue? I realize dropping the coroplast underbelly may the only way to fully diagnose.

**norty1** · 06-22-2021, 09:53 AM

On my older Eagle, I can remove a panel in the large storage and see the valves where they terminate in the tanks.

Just a thought if you wanted to get some more ideas.

RoadrunnerII · 06-22-2021, 09:53 AM

I would pull the rear wall in basement and follow the cables.. Use a good lube on valve end and handle end. White lithium in spray can.
On our Eagle 321rsts the black and bathroom grey are under basement. Cables and valves are easy accessable with rear basement wall pulled out.

RoadrunnerII

Route 66 Traveler · 06-22-2021, 10:40 AM

I know this is probably a dumb question, but are you sure it's closed? Maybe you forgot to close it the last time you drained it?

Speaking from experience; been there, done that.

CwD · 06-22-2021, 11:23 AM

Our 2020 NP had a similar issue last year with the black valve. Very hard to pull open and closed and was worried I would break the plastic handle. I did not like that the cable is routed too tight from the wet bay to the tank, string tight. So I listed that as a concern when I took it to the dealer to fix with other items. I specifically asked them to replace due to how tight it was and it was in the closest position is the wet bay which was labeled GREY. Clearly a last minute bush fix.
So they lubed the cable and it works fine. Was not happy but I feel it is documented for future discussions.
I also recommend you look behind the wall and see if by chance anything is binding or blocking the valve movement, and lube from both sides.
You probably already thought about this but as soon as you free up the valve, the drain pipe will fill with grey water. You will want to lube and move the handle many times. Once freed up and closed, get a bucket and carefully open the cap and collect the grey and find a thirsty tree. Your situation may not allow this, just trying to help.

GHen · 06-22-2021, 03:28 PM

Good suggestion on the lithium grease spray. Im going to lube mine up now before I have any issues.

JB13502 · 06-22-2021, 03:31 PM

Just had this problem with my 8 week old North Point, black tank valve lever would not budge. Removed t-handle, lightly clamped a pair of vice grips to the inner sheath while holding the outer sheath with a wrench. A little turning clockwise and counter clockwise freed it up. Followed with spray lube shot down the sheathe.

The problem is mixing an aluminum cable in a steel housing and corrosion sets in.

Highlander · 06-23-2021, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

I know this is probably a dumb question, but are you sure it's closed? Maybe you forgot to close it the last time you drained it?

Speaking from experience; been there, done that.

Bathroom gray valve is definitely closed. Handle is pushed in and we didn't have any "drainage" when I first took the cap off the connection to dump.

Highlander · 06-23-2021, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

I would pull the rear wall in basement and follow the cables.. Use a good lube on valve end and handle end. White lithium in spray can.
On our Eagle 321rsts the black and bathroom grey are under basement. Cables and valves are easy accessable with rear basement wall pulled out.

RoadrunnerII

I can see the cables behind the wet bay through the removable access panel in the basement. The tanks sit below the basement. The HT is not drop frame rig. All 3 cable run from the wet bay then toward the rear and down. From there I can't see unless I drop the coroplast underbelly.

Highlander · 06-23-2021, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CwD

Once freed up and closed, get a bucket and carefully open the cap and collect the grey and find a thirsty tree.

Luckily, Jayco was good enough to install a gate valve on the 4 inch waste PVC just before the cap. I've seen too many, "OH SHIZ I FORGOT TO CLOSE THE TANK VALVE" accidents.

Of course if we have to remove the gate valve at the tank, different story.

Highlander · 06-23-2021, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB13502

Just had this problem with my 8 week old North Point, black tank valve lever would not budge. Removed t-handle, lightly clamped a pair of vice grips to the inner sheath while holding the outer sheath with a wrench. A little turning clockwise and counter clockwise freed it up. Followed with spray lube shot down the sheathe.

The problem is mixing an aluminum cable in a steel housing and corrosion sets in.

Good to know. I tried WD40 since it was on hand at the time. The cable housing has a rubber bushing where the cable is attached on the wet bay. Wasn't very successful getting any of the WD40 inside the tube.

prm99v6 · 06-24-2021, 10:24 PM

I have same. My problem is definitely corrosion on the shaft for the handle.

RoadrunnerII · 06-25-2021, 09:14 AM

You could try something like Moovit or a deep creep penatrating oil. Put it on and leave it for a day... Need to get some inside the casing somehow...

RoadrunnerII

Highlander · 06-26-2021, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB13502

Just had this problem with my 8 week old North Point, black tank valve lever would not budge. Removed t-handle, lightly clamped a pair of vice grips to the inner sheath while holding the outer sheath with a wrench. A little turning clockwise and counter clockwise freed it up. Followed with spray lube shot down the sheathe.

The problem is mixing an aluminum cable in a steel housing and corrosion sets in.

And we have a winner!

Thanks to JB13502 the suggestion to remove the T-handle and use vise grips to rotate the shaft clockwise and counter-clockwise did the trick. It broke it free and I was able to dump the tank. This probably saved me $350 on a mobile tech coming out to drop the underbelly.

I used CRC Power Lube to help the cable out and exercised in and out a few times, wiped down the darkened gunk that was on the shaft and repeated 2 more times.

RickandBecky · 06-27-2021, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Highlander

We have a 2020 Eagle HT 30.5 CKTS. This past weekend packing up to leave, I was not able to pull the gray tank (bathroom) valve in the wet bay. It is totally seized up. Checked behind the panel and the cable is visible, but not much else was done. I can't get in for service until mid-July. Hoping to find a mobile repair as I'd rather not have 20+ gallons of gray water sitting for a month.

Any ideas on the issue? I realize dropping the coroplast underbelly may the only way to fully diagnose.

We have a 2020 30.5CKTS also and have had trouble getting our kitchen gray tank valve open since day one. Our great dealer has tried to remedy a couple of times, but says due to the way it is routed underneath, it’s just difficult to get the cable to move. I have to pull so hard on the T-handle I am really afraid it’s going to come off in my hand. Same with closing it—have to push with both hands to get it closed. The other two valves (bath gray and bath black) work easily. Not sure what to try next.

RoadrunnerII · 06-27-2021, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickandBecky

We have a 2020 30.5CKTS also and have had trouble getting our kitchen gray tank valve open since day one. Our great dealer has tried to remedy a couple of times, but says due to the way it is routed underneath, it’s just difficult to get the cable to move. I have to pull so hard on the T-handle I am really afraid it’s going to come off in my hand. Same with closing it—have to push with both hands to get it closed. The other two valves (bath gray and bath black) work easily. Not sure what to try next.

Lube it at handle end at least
White lithium spray can
May help

RoadrunnerII

RickandBecky · 06-27-2021, 04:27 PM

I’ve tried, but so far hasn’t helped. Our dealer did the same and not much improvement. I’m going to take off the only access panel I can see, and take a look from there and see if there’s anything else. I saw another post here that said they took the T-handle off and twisted the cable inside the sheath and it fixed it. If I can do that, I will try it too. Thanks for the advice!

Highlander · 06-28-2021, 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RickandBecky

I’ve tried, but so far hasn’t helped. Our dealer did the same and not much improvement. I’m going to take off the only access panel I can see, and take a look from there and see if there’s anything else. I saw another post here that said they took the T-handle off and twisted the cable inside the sheath and it fixed it. If I can do that, I will try it too. Thanks for the advice!

I think I'd make sure that replacing that cable is on the punch list for the final 2 year warranty claims. I would insist the dealer replace it. Seems they have it documented to be tough to pull.

From access panel in the basement on the CKTS, you should see all 3 pulls leaving the panel and making turn toward the rear of the unit and then angling down. From that point, I think you'd have to drop the underbelly to see more.

RickandBecky · 06-28-2021, 06:13 AM

Great advice! They definitely know about it, but will be sure they have a good, written record of it also. Thanks!

andycook281 · 06-30-2021, 01:12 PM

Just had the same thing happen to me last week. The water from the hook up above the valves leaks onto the handles for grey and black tanks. It then corroded the rods. Not a good design. Spray them down with wd40 or aerokroil let soak and it will free. Then I put some white lithium grease on the cable rods.

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