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Old 01-21-2016, 12:23 PM   #11
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This is a good subject.
Is it worth to take your RV to the dealer for leaking inspection once in a while?
If yes, what would be the frequency and what is the average cost of that inspection?

Tks,
Ricardo
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:43 PM   #12
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Severe and expensive damage can be done from water intrusion. Much of the damage, as I understand it, occurs over time. By the time you can see the damage inside, the behind the walls and under the floor and ceiling damage is likely to be extensive. Iceberg effect.

You need to check with your local RV repair facility to see what tests they use or if they farm it out and then get quotes. There are also ultrasound tests and camera insertions.

This stuff just breaks and falls apart on its own schedule largely based on the quality of the unit, usage, storage, and preventative maintenance.

If you care you will be constantly hunting for all kinds of problems, not just water intrusion. How often you have any maintenance or inspections done is a "depends."

Personally, if I owned a premium dp I would have a pressure test/soap bubble test just after the summer season and before the rains. I would water spray it as well, do some ultrasounds, and carefully check the top of the roof, the sides, the windows, the doors visually and with finger and foot push tests for soft spots. Every month I would be inspecting, using, and driving it.

I'm nuts if you wish to say so.

Someone would offer other recommendations. I would be checking the undercarriage yearly for rust. I would have yearly fluids pulled and tested, tracking changes over time.

When buying I would be searching the particular mh on multiple forums, check the VIN at CarFax, review the recall notices, etc. etc.

I would carefully document my electrical systems, and yearly check all my ground and other connections to be sure they are dry, clean, and tight.

Be an expert on batteries, maintenance, etc. An expert on all my electrical systems, hookups, pedestal evaluation, voltage monitoring and protection.

There are plenty of resources available already.

My attitude is that if working on, inspecting, and doing preventative maintenance on your RV is fun and interesting, you will probably have a lot more joy.

In other words, for me, it is all about destinations for using your RV and all about the preventative and repair and upgrade maintenance journey for keeping the dream alive.

Yes it costs a lot and few owners really care IMO...they just wanna have fun.

Yesterday, I warranty inspected a mh that the owner paid $10 over nada book for, and in winter. I found so many problems he missed, some expensive, he looked like I hit him with a shovel. Many prior problems had really cheap repairs made. The mh is turning into a piece of junk and he is out of pocket over $55 grand cash.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:34 PM   #13
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Roger, I'm a Mechanical engineer that likes to keep things working properly so I do maintenance when it is due and I have a boat that sits on the water constantly so I'm kind like you and I know that owing those things is a constant search for the next fix, but my question was related to the roof and to be more specific, the silicone they use to seal everything.
In boats we use Sikaflex and I already saw 30 year old boats that Sikaflex is still holding, but I don't know RV's.
In a recent RV show, the sales guy told me 10 years for a complete reseal...
I'd like to hear the take of those that actually own trailers, is 10 years safe for a trailer that is used 5 weeks during the year and is kept under cover? (that will be my case).

Tks,
R
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:08 PM   #14
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There are a variety of resealing materials and approaches out there, as well as a variety of types of roofs. It is important that you use sealants compatible with the material your RV roof and other products you are sealing are constructed out of.

Try "rv roof resealing" to search the internet.

Example: Eternabond, Dicor Lap sealants.

Dicor EPDM lap sealant is specially formulated for EPDM roofing and it works on galvanized metal, aluminum and fiberglass roofs. The Dicor Ultra Sealant System is specially formulated for RV TPO roofing.

ETERNABOND® is the only MicroSealant® in a tape form available that will stop virtually any leak or water proof any surface in minutes.

From the manufacturer to the tradesman to the homeowner, more and more people are trusting EternaBond® for permanent repairs on non pressurized leaks. EternaBond®'s MicroSealant® adhesive provides a permanent bond to virtually all surfaces. By following our easy 3 step instructions, you too will be amazed at the simplicity of installation and bonding strength of EternaBond® tapes.

See How do I Reseal my RV Roof Seams & Sealants? | RV 101® your education source for RV information

RV armor Welcome to RV Armor - Home, a high-performance single-component polymer is applied as a liquid, then cures within four hours into a watertight, puncture and UV resistant roof membrane. Lifetime guarantee
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:11 PM   #15
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Will throw in this buying tip.

Whatever you spend on checking an RV out should give you plenty of bargaining power for the final cost. It is a buyers market out there. If you find a lot of stuff wrong it is the cheapest insurance you can buy and walk away. If not then you are getting a good vehicle and pay the going price.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:11 PM   #16
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Most people that avoid roof leaks do a roof inspection once or twice a year. Which includes inspecting the roof material for tears, checking all seams and roof openings for cracks or shrinkage.
Personally I would not leave this to someone I do not trust. Many dealerships will do this for a couple hundred dollars. If you are well versed in what to look for, it is easily done in a hour or so..

Regular attention will add many trouble free years to the roof material.

There are lots of different opinions about cleaning and treatments. I would read and follow the manufacturers recommendation.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:18 PM   #17
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Again, it was my fault that i didnt check the roof. I checked the chassis, electrical, heater... gave the insides a real good once over. Saw no issues. I just didnt take the time to look at the roof. When i did go look at it, i saw patch after patch. It had a very slight mildew smell, and at the time, i thought nothing of it other than "we can febreeze this thing!"

One condition of a new rig is that it cant be new, fiance says so, and there are hardly any units available for the price shes willing to be 100% ok with. The dealer showed up this one online: Used 2011 Keystone Cougar Fifth Wheel Trailer For Sale In Wood Village, OR - POR1273434 - Camping World

They will sell it for about $23k. They are moving it tomorrow to their store so i can look through it. $240 to $270 a month for a payment is what they through at me.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:44 PM   #18
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I have only used free NADA public RV for motorhomes and when I do I try to do it dealer style which is to ignore options. However, there is a version for dealers I would purchase if I was getting serious. My initial run shows high NADA at 28,400 and this is winter with few customers. Someone might adjust this or use a different source.

I don't like Camping World in general and I think that goes for a lot of people across forums. Not to say there would not be an exception. Usually they are overpriced and service is lousy.

Anyway take that into consideration. Inspect the heck out of it and do what makes sense to you, but assuming you used my numbers you ought to be paying even less in winter.

Here is my question, if you don't have a pricing reference point, and something like NADA is a calculated, not a market number, just how do you have a clue what the price should be?

You want to have fun? Ask them how they determined their number and have them explain their process to you.

I was looking at a dp online that was $20 above high nada. I asked them how they priced it and they said high nada. I quoted them my high nada and asked them to explain how they came up with their number. They never called me back.

I mentioned NADA to one seller and he accused me of playing my cards close and acting like I didn't know what I was doing.

One last question...why aren't you buying from a private party than a @# dealer.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:08 PM   #19
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Because my last unit was private party. I'm leery now, but not totally closed off. Ill look at NADA tonight for this one. I didn't get that far.

If you are curious though, I don't think they are getting my business. Gut tells me something isn't right with this deal. I'm thinking at this point that i should keep looking, and get closer to the camping season and see what pops up then. By then i may have use of my arm, and may look into a hold over repair on what i got.

You may have just saved me from being suckered, again. For that, you have my thanks!
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:49 PM   #20
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Knowing the owner and rv history is key to avoiding surprises. Not a guarantee but sure is miles ahead of a stranger. Boats are the same, they for the most part can look great but below deck out of sight full of nightmares. Good luck.
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