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Old 01-21-2016, 07:19 PM   #21
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My point of view is I'm more put off by dealers than private parties on a used unit. Often, the dealers just don't care about the condition, particularly on consignment units, until they sell it and then they want to get rid of you as soon as possible so any problems missed are on your back. Yes, there are exceptions.

Whether dealer or private, it is all about documented history and inspections/verifications. And the dealers have to build profit into it and often low ball on the trade in.

The right private party or dealer, with you armed with price/value/actual condition/deal timing knowledge might cut you a good deal.

Both can sell you a lemon if you are blinded by your dreams and lack of knowledge.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:08 PM   #22
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Both can sell you a lemon if you are blinded by your dreams and lack of knowledge.
Agreed. Never hurts to look into something though. Only way to know if it truly is garbage.
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:15 PM   #23
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Replacing your RV

Shop the private owner market for something that meets your needs. If you buy new at a Dealer, shoot for at least 30% off sticker price. My last purchase in 2010 went like this: Invoice/Sticker loaded with fluff--$32,500.00, Dealer cost--$19,303.00, my cost out the door including Tax,Tags--$20,484.00. Note: One of the Dealers staff mistakenly faxed me a copy of the invoice with the cost price penciled in. Tax, Tags & Fees cost the dealer in excess of $400.00 The unit is a 2009 and I purchased it in Feb 2010 so the 2011's were out already. Just remember until you sign the dotted line, you are in control and they really ain't your friends.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:31 AM   #24
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I went and had a look at the unit. Its definitely used, but its not trashed. It was kept up well.

I crawled all around as much as i could with my arm in a sling. No rust, no damage, no water leaks to speak of. (we have had near constant rain here for a month and a half) we didnt test the plumbing or anything else.

The upsides: this unit will last me awhile if i plan to get it. it has plenty of space for my kiddos, and it even gives us adults the ability to separate their noise so we can sit and drink our vodka in peace. it also has space for me to install a generator, and carry extra gear for other activities. Lastly, its appears to be in decent shape, so continuing on with good yearly maintenance activities should see this unit last me a long time.

the downside: Its HUGE compared to my current old eagle. i cant reach the ceiling in this thing! guess that's the difference in a bunkhouse and a standard. i would have another house payment. This year doesn't look to be a good year with my older family, and i may not get to fully enjoy the unit as much as i would like.

I ran another NADA value for it. as RodgerS said, the base values are low. I optioned it out as it sits at the lot and now its showing $37,850.

I really don't want to make another mistake with this. I REALLY want a good deal, for a fifth that will hold up down the road. I do understand that i may need to "pay to play" I appreciate blunt criticizim...
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:17 AM   #25
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Another update, I'll post pics later...

For the moment I'm not pursuing a new unit. I will be doing repairs to my current unit, regardless of how far the damage goes.

I have removed the middle cabinet and upper sheeting inside the bedroom and got access to the roof sheets. The immediate area that's leaking is the nose cap to roof join point. After poking at it, i was able to poke through the old luan panel, but not the rubber roof itself. The rafters so far are solid, but very wet.

I got an Elements cover a few weeks back and got it installed, but it appears to be leaking water! Determined this by working on the unit while it was raining earlier today. (it could possibly be water caught between the wood and rubber roof, but after dumping my 2 5 gallon buckets while full twice, that doesn't seem likely...) $423 for a $%@# cover that doesn't work and isn't returnable is aggravating. It also aggravating that I can't find the manufactures website to start a warranty claim...
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:02 AM   #26
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Covers are rarely water PROOF. Most are used more to protect the roof and sides from sun damage.
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:47 AM   #27
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Interesting... i figured it would have something. I asked a camping world associate if its water resistant and she pipped off "yes" before i finished my sentence.

So would adding a tarp above the cover be a safe thing to do?
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Old 02-06-2016, 07:31 PM   #28
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Short term you could use a tarp. But I would not use it long term because a tarp will not "breath" as where a cover will. In other words a tarp will hold water under it. Hope that makes sense .
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:17 PM   #29
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I understand 100%.

Anyway, Pictures!





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Old 02-10-2016, 08:20 PM   #30
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So, we had some good weather, so it was time to attack.


First i got the bottom end gutted. The bottom side structure looks good, and is still solid, though a bit wet. minor rust on the steel, so ill get that with POR15.

But the roof, well... previous owner had a repair done, and they used crap fiberboard and did not resecure the nosecap to ANY structure what so ever. Overtime, the rubber roof, board, and aluminum seperated, creating a GIANT gap that let massive amounts of water in. So we removed the "repair", installed a new rafter that attached to the exisiting one, cut a new piece of luan board, and resecured the nose cap and rubber roof. We are awaiting a little rain tonight to test it out.



I also was able to finish removing the forward wall interior paneling, and found maybe one piece of wood that is soft and rotting. We think we can repair that in place...

More to come.
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:09 PM   #31
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So the leaks did not stop in the repaired section. we inspected the entire forward section and found no other gaps, tears, or otherwise, so the rubber roof must be letting water leak through. We ended up putting a tarp over the leaking area and putting the cover back on.

I finished gutting the known leak hit areas. Ive verified dry wood and insulation beyond those points. I'm going to go ahead an remove the floorboards and install new ones for peace of mind. As you can see from the pictures, I get to be an interior designer/decorator.







Minor structure needs replacing... and it doesn't seem it will take much to do it.
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Old 02-17-2016, 08:50 PM   #32
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My kinda guy, fix it yourself! Better than $125+ an hour at a dealer. You'll know what you have and how it's put together. I don't know how to do that : YouTube & Internet
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:55 AM   #33
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My kinda guy, fix it yourself! Better than $125+ an hour at a dealer. You'll know what you have and how it's put together. I don't know how to do that : YouTube & Internet
I was really conflicted, as you could see in the previous postings. Then my accountant stepped in and said no new units. I already knew having a shop fix this would be as much as a new unit... So here I am.

I bought a 5 gallon can of EPDM liquid roof, and next week we are supposed to have good weather, so I think we will be taking care of the leaks once and for all. Then i can start putting the insides back together.

Im also considering continuing the tearout up to the living room bulkhead, so that would mean the lav would get updated to...
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:38 PM   #34
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I admire your efforts and hard work. Can't wait to see you get it all done so you can enjoy it. Maybe you should have your own tv show like "flipping Rvs" [emoji3]
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:29 PM   #35
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Maybe you should have your own tv show like "flipping Rvs" [emoji3]
Maybe, or it might be enough to scare people away seeing how cheap these units are made...
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:30 PM   #36
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Tomorrow, the fun on the outside begins! 5 whole days of no rain!

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Old 02-24-2016, 12:48 AM   #37
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The roof is ready for a coating tomorrow! Took about 4 hours of getting it cleaned off, peripheries removed, previous bad repairs removed, replacing a vent, and sealing of exposed areas.



ProGuard Liquid RV roof is what im using. Looks to be the best there is compared to a NEW rubber roof...

I checked for other small defects and applied some dicor rubber roof sealant as needed. Below is one of the damaged areas that was repaired with aluminum tape and some kind of hard sealant. Rag is there to soak up some moisture.



This is where the major leaking is occuring. Even with it repaired its soaking through the current surface. If the EPDM coating doesnt work, i think i will be parting out this 5er...
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:46 PM   #38
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Looks like it's coming good. Flipping RV's ...... too much time fixin & not enough campin. That said you have increased it's value to keep & use or to trade off.
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Old 02-25-2016, 12:22 PM   #39
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That said you have increased it's value to keep & use or to trade off.
My plan is to get it fixed up and usable, but I do plan on moving into a unit with bunkhouse. Hopefully my work bears fruit and a dealer will give me what I want on it...

Anyway, the coating is on, but i have 3 and a half gallons left over! It would appear that either i did not get the coating on thick enough, or their calculations are VERY conservative. Maybe someone who's used it before can chime in... I got the remaining coating in cans in my freezer to use at another time. If I'm leak proof now, i may hold off using the remainder. This stuff is pretty hard to roll on with a shoulder that isn't 100%.

After cutting in... made sure it was a thick coating, but i didn't seem to use much...



After it was done...


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Old 02-25-2016, 01:24 PM   #40
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Lookin good.
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