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Old 07-06-2017, 09:22 AM   #1
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Tow vehicle

I currently have a 2006 Dodge 2500 with 5.9 Cummins. Towing capacity is 13,500 lbs? My 5th wheel weighs in at around 12,600 according to the dealer. I figure that I'm pushing the limits of my truck and am seeking a possible replacement. Just looked at a 2013 F-350 with 6.7 L power stroke.

What are your recommendations and what do you drive?


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Old 07-06-2017, 10:49 AM   #2
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A question and a couple of comments for you. First, what is the GVWR of your trailer? Is it 12600# or is that what the dealer is telling you is the shipping weight?

I've owned Cummins powered Rams dating back to 1992 and currently own 2 trucks nearly identical to yours, the 2007 in my signature and also a 2004.5 that we plow with.

The only difference in the 3rd gen Ram HD line between a 2500 (9000# GVWR) and a 3500 SRW (10200# GVWR) is the addition of a set of overload springs on the rear. Brakes, tires, wheels, frame, etc. are identical. The 2500 trucks have combined gross axle capacities of 11210# as per the door sticker (5200# front 6010# rear). It will really depend on exactly what the weight of your trailer is, but if it is in that 12600# range +/-, I can tell you from experience that the pin weight will likely cause the truck to be in excess of it's 9000# GVWR but within manufacturers posted axle capacity. Get your trailer weighed or give us the exact model and we can better help you.
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Old 07-06-2017, 10:50 AM   #3
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You're going to run out of payload LONG before you run out of "towing capacity", especially when considering a fifth wheel, so payload is where you want to concentrate your research efforts.

In the 3/4T arena, the diesel engine takes a huge bite out of available payload. In my case, it's about a 1000 lb penalty (rig is in my sig). In the 1T arena, this is less of a problem because of the typically massive payload ratings that accompany the truck.

Good luck with your search!!
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:28 AM   #4
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Same as above noted. I just put overload springs on mine and it is good.

Unless you go to a dually it isn't worth an upgrade. But, if you want a newer truck then by all means go with what you want.

PS My truck just got a new turbocharger at 100k mi. Stop and go is not for for turbos, especially the Dodges with their regen systems. So, if you are facing that there may be another reason to get a new truck.
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Old 07-06-2017, 11:39 AM   #5
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PS My truck just got a new turbocharger at 100k mi. Stop and go is not for for turbos, especially the Dodges with their regen systems. So, if you are facing that there may be another reason to get a new truck.

The 5.9's are not subject to the the problems that you've had with your Variable Geometry Turbo on your 6.7. If you haven't been doing so all along, run your exhaust brake all the time. It helps keep that mechanism loose and free of carbon and soot deposits.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:32 PM   #6
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Yep, exhaust brake on all the time. The system is still subject to a lot more soot in there due to the way Dodge did the emissions. 100k mi is about average for the stock 6.7's that are daily drivers.
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Old 07-06-2017, 02:02 PM   #7
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That's not really an issue I have. My closest job site is about 45 mins away. I don't do many short drives, and I avoid traffic like the plague.

I'm in no rush to replace my dodge. Just looking for what my next truck should be when the time comes.

My biggest issue with my truck is the ride. Especially when I'm not towing the camper. I realize once you get into the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks it's a compromise.


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Old 07-06-2017, 03:01 PM   #8
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I see from your sig's that you folks are running Dodge 2500s. Are y'all running a tuner?
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:19 PM   #9
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I see from your sig's that you folks are running Dodge 2500s. Are y'all running a tuner?
I'm personally running a Smarty. A Smarty Jr on level 1 for a stock 5.9L is great for towing. I would make sure that you have gauges to monitor EGT at a minimum and at also boost and fuel pressure on your 5.9L. I also monitor rail pressure on mine.

I'm great friends with the owner of a diesel performance shop here in western PA and have been turning wrenches in is shop for nearly 20 years when he needs a hand. Feel free to ask if you have any questions when you start thinking about power adders.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:22 PM   #10
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I was toying with adding a tuner. Nothing dramatic, have no interest in rolling coal lol. Just enough to wake it up and gain a few mpg's.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:25 PM   #11
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My nephew bought a 2012 dodge 2500 6.7 L Cummins. Stock he was getting 12 mpg. Tuner, EGR delete, big lift body and suspension I believe and he's getting 18 now.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:33 PM   #12
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I was toying with adding a tuner. Nothing dramatic, have no interest in rolling coal lol. Just enough to wake it up and gain a few mpg's.
If that's the case, I'd run a Smarty Jr and call it done. The level one towing setting really wakes these things up. I hesitate suggesting anything more with a stock trans or stock clutch. Even though you will have some people claim that their stock units handle much greater power gains before replacement, I've found through experience that it isn't the case when towing hauling on a regular basis.

I would still add an EGT gauge at a minimum towing the weight you are, just to make sure you keep things in check. Remember though, you can't beat a stock truck for reliability. I've never been able to leave them alone myself. But, parts don't usually break at stock power levels.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:46 PM   #13
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I can't really complain about my mpg's. I average between 17-18 normal driving. That's hand calculated not the lie-o-meter. That's says I average 24-26. AFAIK, the only mods are an exhaust and a K&N FIPK. I think my truck stock had a cat... not sure.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:48 PM   #14
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I don't know why anyone would push the stock transmissions. Especially from my trucks era. They had enough issues with them already.
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Old 07-06-2017, 04:01 PM   #15
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I can't really complain about my mpg's. I average between 17-18 normal driving. That's hand calculated not the lie-o-meter. That's says I average 24-26. AFAIK, the only mods are an exhaust and a K&N FIPK. I think my truck stock had a cat... not sure.
It did have a cat stock. I've left them on mine. We've had these trucks on the dyno often and we've found that up to well over 500 RWHP, the cat offers no significant restriction. We've tried them both ways.


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I don't know why anyone would push the stock transmissions. Especially from my trucks era. They had enough issues with them already.
I agree. The 48re automatic is actually quite good in stock form. We have 340K mile on our 04.5 on the stock 48re and that truck plows snow all winter. The key is stock power and frequent fluid changes.

My '07 is a 6-speed.
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