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Old 04-02-2017, 04:03 AM   #1
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tow vehicle question for 377RLBH

I know there's a plethora of info on weights and pull vehicles on here and on the interwebs in general. But here's the question I'm left with after swimming through much of it... I could use some wisdom.

I'm in the initial stages of ordering a new 377RLBH. I'm also in the initial stages of buying a dedicated tow vehicle, which looks to be a 2003 Chevy 3500 crew cab dually right now.

The dry pin weight of a 2017 377RLBH is 2725lbs (according to the Jayco specs). The max 5th wheel hitch wt of my dually is 3500lbs (based on the Chevy forum VIN decoder at VIN Decoder - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums).

So that gives me only 775 lbs of hitch weight to play with. Add the hitch in my truck bed, a washer/dryer, a generator and full LP tanks and it would seem that I'm almost maxed out before I even pack.

Am I missing something? I just assumed a one-ton dually would have plenty of margin for this.
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:04 AM   #2
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I know there's a plethora of info on weights and pull vehicles on here and on the interwebs in general. But here's the question I'm left with after swimming through much of it... I could use some wisdom.



I'm in the initial stages of ordering a new 377RLBH. I'm also in the initial stages of buying a dedicated tow vehicle, which looks to be a 2003 Chevy 3500 crew cab dually right now.



The dry pin weight of a 2017 377RLBH is 2725lbs (according to the Jayco specs). The max 5th wheel hitch wt of my dually is 3500lbs (based on the Chevy forum VIN decoder at VIN Decoder - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums).



So that gives me only 775 lbs of hitch weight to play with. Add the hitch in my truck bed, a washer/dryer, a generator and full LP tanks and it would seem that I'm almost maxed out before I even pack.



Am I missing something? I just assumed a one-ton dually would have plenty of margin for this.


Just checked my 17 Chevy 3500 DRW Diesel crew cab says the weight of occupants and cargo should not exceed 4623 pounds on the door jam. If i am not mistaken this is the number that you want to use. I could be wrong.



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Old 04-02-2017, 06:13 AM   #3
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A 2003 truck won't have the weight ratings of a newer truck. Newer trucks have much higher ratings.


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Old 04-02-2017, 07:35 AM   #4
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Look at the door jamb for a sticker that says weight of all cargo and occupants should not exceed xxxx pounds. That's your cargo capacity. Your real pin weight will be closer to 3200-3500 pounds after you load it up. Don't forget to add the weight of any firewood, tools, bikes, hitch, and passengers to the pin weight to compare to your cargo capacity. I think you'll be close to the limit if not over. Only you can determine if you feel comfortable towing over your limits. Plenty do it. Heck, I used to tow my SOB fifth wheel that was the same size as our 377 with an F250. My personal thoughts are you would be ok towing with the 03 but you'll feel it is under powered and always "maxed out". I had an 06 F350 dually that felt that way. I actually had 5300 pound cargo capacity but the towing limit was 15,800. My rig is about 15,000 so I always felt the truck was straining. YMMV

Good luck and congrats on the 377! It's a great layout and you'll love it!


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Old 04-02-2017, 08:04 AM   #5
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I echo what the others have said. We started off with a '14 Ram 2500 diesel towing the 377. I was way over on my payload. The truck pulled the 377 fine, but just didn't feel real stable with all that weight. So I traded the 2500 for a '16 3500 dually, which turned out to be way more stable...even the DW noticed it. Now if your talking single rear wheel, one of my buddies works for Ram as a mechanic and advised me that the only difference between the 2500/3500 single rear wheel is the rear suspension...everything else is identical.
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Old 04-02-2017, 10:50 AM   #6
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Thanks. So, is there any particular year when the weight capacities increased significantly? I need to find a sweet spot-- old enough to keep the price reasonable, but powerful enough to easily handle the 377. I'm finding the prices of 1-tons in the early 2000's in the $11-14k range, but they start to skyrocket as I move forward in time.
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Old 04-02-2017, 11:05 AM   #7
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I would say look at 2005 and newer. You should get 13,000 gvwr on the dually. I believe that increased to 14,000 in 2011(?).


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Old 04-02-2017, 11:14 AM   #8
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Thanks. Oh, and I just now read that the max cargo capacity is lower in 4x4 models. Didn't know that. The one I was looking at was a 4x4.


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Old 04-02-2017, 11:18 AM   #9
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Thanks. Oh, and I just now read that the max cargo capacity is lower in 4x4 models. Didn't know that. The one I was looking at was a 4x4.


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Yes because the 4wd makes the truck heavier taking away from the payload.


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Old 04-02-2017, 11:25 AM   #10
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Another thing you'll find is the higher the trim level, the lower the capacity. All the extra bells and whistles add weight


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Old 04-08-2017, 09:22 AM   #11
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Thanks again for your input, everyone.

I've decided that I want a 2011 or newer one-ton Dually since the weight capacities increased across the board that year. Now I'm just debating whether to get something used, or suck it up and buy new.

If I go new, it will be a bottom trim-line Dodge Tradesman. I'm going to let my ignorance shine through here. There are many options I don't fully understand.

There are multiple options for higher capacity alternators / dual alternators. Would that serve any purpose hauling a 377? Will I be charging the trailer batteries from the pull truck?

There's a $1500 upgrade for an auto level rear air suspension. Is this necessary, nice to have, or superfluous?

Lastly, I was planning on going 2-wheel drive, since it will give me greater cargo capacity, it is cheaper, and all the weight is on the rear wheels anyway. But, having no RV experience I'm wondering what you wiser, more seasoned RVers have to say about that.


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Old 04-08-2017, 10:26 AM   #12
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I don't know that I'm all that much wiser! But when I had my 2500, I had a set of Firestone airbags that I had to manually fill up. The new 3500 has the factory equipped airbags and man is it nice! I just lower the 5er on to the hitch and the airbags automatically fill and level the truck! 2wd will definitely give u more cargo capacity and its 1 less thing to have to maintain or possibly fix. I also have the dual alternators (it's not needed). It's mainly for powering any power accessories you want to add down the line. I only got it because it was already installed on the truck. I was told that the wire going back to the 5er is the same size no matter what alternator you get...only so much juice can flow thru.
Good luck and keep us updated with your purchase.


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Old 04-08-2017, 12:03 PM   #13
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Good decision on the truck


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Old 04-08-2017, 12:44 PM   #14
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Something to keep in mind is the rear axle ratio. If. Remember correctly the higher the ratio, the more more the truck is rated to carry and tow. The standard on the Ram is 3.42, and that probably gives you plenty of capacity for the rig you're looking at.
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Old 04-08-2017, 01:07 PM   #15
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I'll disagree slightly with Rob. The 377 is a big trailer. I think you should look at 3.73 gears or higher. The 3.42 is for gas mileage. The 4.10 is for towing. The 3.73 is the happy medium.

Now, if you only plan to tow a couple times a year to destinations near your home, then the 3.42 is fine.
If you tow a lot I'd go with 3.73 or 4.10.
JMHO


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Old 04-08-2017, 02:55 PM   #16
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When I was looking, the rear end gear ratio was one of the things I wasn't willing to settle on. I wanted either 373 or 410 rear. I only use the TV for towing and maybe 2/3 errands per week. So it is mainly a "tow" vehicle. I have a "company" car that I drive during the week, so for the most part it just sits. But, like Tom said, I'd atleast get 373 gears.
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Old 04-08-2017, 03:16 PM   #17
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I'll disagree slightly with Rob. The 377 is a big trailer. I think you should look at 3.73 gears or higher. The 3.42 is for gas mileage. The 4.10 is for towing. The 3.73 is the happy medium.

Now, if you only plan to tow a couple times a year to destinations near your home, then the 3.42 is fine.
If you tow a lot I'd go with 3.73 or 4.10.
JMHO


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I stand corrected
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:05 PM   #18
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Thanks guys, that's great info, I'll be trying to decide between the 3.73 and 4.1.

Another question. Camera systems. My truck will likely be a low end one with a basic radio and not a fancy nav system. The 377 will have a camera, but where will it be displayed? I do have the option of upgrading the dodge to a Uconnect 3 or 5-- would that be worth it... would the review camera then be piped into that? Do you guys find the trailer mirrors good enough for lane changes... or do you have the fancier camera packages that show you the side view when you put your blinker on?


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Old 04-08-2017, 05:13 PM   #19
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Honestly Wire, I don't see a need to upgrade the UConnect. My camera for the 5er is with a Furrion and it has a bluetooth "TV" that is plugged into the cigarette lighter for monitoring on both my 2500 and 3500. It does not connect to the UConnect, unless you buy something aftermarket like "lockpick". And even then, it will need a connection and will not work thru bluetooth. Everything that you've mentioned...so far...the only worthwhile upgrade to me would be the factory self-leveling airbags.
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:13 PM   #20
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A 2003 truck won't have the weight ratings of a newer truck. Newer trucks have much higher ratings.


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Not to high jack the thread, but that's false. My bother in laws 2014 Chevy 2500 CC duramax had a higher payload and towing capacity, then my 2016 GMC 2500 CC Duramax, that's one reason why I went to a 3500 not too long ago. The newer GM's are using the SAE towing ratings these days, and I believe , Ford and Dodge are now if not then next year
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