Trailer is not level and riding too high on rear axle on tow

[GiddiYup]

Help!
We recently upgraded our tow vehicle to a Ford F250 and installed the
15K Superglide Model#2700 by Pullrite for a hitch.

Problem is I cant seem to get the trailer leveled enough to tow it properly and its sitting too high and more on back axle of our 29.5 bhds.

FYI - I have moved up the pin box as high as it will go (last setting) on the trailer but still no luck.

Also, my F250 seems to have the notorious sag in the rear springs and is already sitting lower than it should. Thinking that i will need a helper spring or airbag but that is going to further raise the front of the trailer tow and wont help my issue above.

Does anyone have any recommendations or options?

Thanks for your help!

[SkyBound]

Get your truck riding level with the help of springs or bags or timbrens, etc. Then determine how much the trailer needs to come up. Consider an axle flip which will gain you a couple inches and is pretty easy to do. On a stock height 250 you shouldn't need to do anything too drastic.

[godawgs]

I am experiencing the same thing on my F350. I have the same hitch set up too.

[17 Oaks]

First thing I would do is check the decal on the lower drivers door frame and find out your specs. What is your pin weight and are you close to you max payload capacity.

I think the Timbren's are a better idea than Airbags (of which I generally am not a advocate of). That said if you want adjustability the AB's are a better route IMO. But if its just to level go with the Tims. But before you do anything know where you stand capacity wise...

[oz97tj]

Brand new truck already sagging? Call your dealer. My '15 Ram 2500 barely settles at all with the same 5er hooked up. Unless you have overloaded your camper, you should be under 2k lbs on your pin.

As for the trailer not being level, the equalizer in the suspension balances load on the two axles so there is no more weight on either axle simply because it's a few inches nose high.

[sobuck1]

2008 F250 here pulling 28.5 RSTS not a bit of sag here

[popjim52]

I have a Ram 2500 lifted 6 inches, I had to get a different Shank for my hitch so that it would drop the ball down lower and the truck hitch was level with trailer hitch. Once this was accomplished there was no sagging or unlevelness of either the camper or the truck...Hope this link helps..Shanks

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by popjim52

I have a Ram 2500 lifted 6 inches, I had to get a different Shank for my hitch so that it would drop the ball down lower and the truck hitch was level with trailer hitch. Once this was accomplished there was no sagging or unlevelness of either the camper or the truck...Hope this link helps..Shanks

I agree a lower shank just might do the trick.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by popjim52

snip...... I had to get a different Shank for my hitch so that it would drop the ball down lower....snip

I believe in the case of the OP he is dealing with a 5th wheel....., different fix required.

Bob

[genxrainman]

The OP has a fifth wheel the shank will not solve his issue but it will fix a travel trailer hight issue. The problem is trucks are getting taller and RV's are still the same. If your out of adjustment in your bed (camper to bed rail) then the only thing left is to raise the camper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Crabman]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I believe in the case of the OP he is dealing with a 5th wheel....., different fix required.

Bob

Oh....In that case a change in shank will not help!

[GiddiYup]

THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE INPUT!!!

Originally Posted by godawgs

I am experiencing the same thing on my F350. I have the same hitch set up too.

Thanks - I think one of major issues we both have is these Pullrite hitches sit higher in our truck beds. Tractorpilot sent me a PM and suggested that I look at the axle on my trailer. Seems that there is an extra hole where I might be able to move the hangars and it might give me an extra inch or two.

Originally Posted by 17 Oaks

First thing I would do is check the decal on the lower drivers door frame and find out your specs. What is your pin weight and are you close to you max payload capacity.

I think the Timbren's are a better idea than Airbags (of which I generally am not a advocate of). That said if you want adjustability the AB's are a better route IMO. But if its just to level go with the Tims. But before you do anything know where you stand capacity wise...

Not overly concerned with weight on my HT Eagle but i think Ford has just made the springs softer on the newer F250's

Originally Posted by sobuck1

2008 F250 here pulling 28.5 RSTS not a bit of sag here

You are lucky to have an older model Ford. Again, i believe they make the newer models "softer" to smooth the rides.

Originally Posted by popjim52

I have a Ram 2500 lifted 6 inches, I had to get a different Shank for my hitch so that it would drop the ball down lower and the truck hitch was level with trailer hitch. Once this was accomplished there was no sagging or unlevelness of either the camper or the truck...Hope this link helps..Shanks

No shanks on Fifth-Wheel hitch but appreciate your input

Originally Posted by SkyBound

Get your truck riding level with the help of springs or bags or timbrens, etc. Then determine how much the trailer needs to come up. Consider an axle flip which will gain you a couple inches and is pretty easy to do. On a stock height 250 you shouldn't need to do anything too drastic.

Dont think i can flip the Axle as I believe they are already on bottom of Springs.

[TWP723]

That F250 should not sag that much. Ford identified having a sag problem with a weighted bed a few years back and has since corrected it. The ride level on a 2012 as opposed to a 2016 has changed by a few inches. I've parked my F250 next to some new (2016) Super Duty's on our lot and there is a considerable height difference. At least an inch or two with the same packages on both vehicles. They have a TSB on the problem but it required ALOT of $$$. It included new springs, a helper spring with brackets, a longer driveshaft plus flashing the vehicle to accept the new travel height. Believe it or not, Ford offered a "payload downgrade" package on some of the Super Duty's which may cause an undesirable sag. It's not that the truck can't handle it, Super Duty's are specifically designed to be work horses. Hence the name Super Duty. It sounds like you may have to adjust in some way or another or add an add-on suspension helper..like Timbrens, RAS or bags. They're not immune to sag, especially with a lot of weight. No matter what truck you have..it'll sag with heavy weight. I've seen F450's sag with a 40ft. 5'er and they have 5-6 leaf stacks as well as auxiliary springs. And they were touching the brackets. I'm a firm believer in suspension helping systems regardless of your truck.

[TWP723]

Here's a copy of the TSB. I was wrong. Looks like they included 2016's. Yet I saw a difference on our lot. But then again, it's an older suspension and has wear-and-tear.


FORD: 2011-2016 F-250


This article supersedes TSB 14-0161 to update the model years.


ISSUE:

Some customers with 2011-2016 F-250 Super Duty 4x4 vehicles want to raise the rear of their vehicle to change vehicle attitude appearance. This procedure provides the necessary information for this modification in accordance with engineering specifications. The modification is a customer responsibility and is not covered by New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to perform the modification.
SERVICE PROCEDURE



Rear ride height may be increased by replacing the rear leaf spring spacer block along with additional components. Raising the rear ride height could affect fifth wheel trailer compatibility.

1. Is the vehicle a 2014-2016 model year and equipped with a snow pre-package?
   1. No - proceed to step 2.
   1. Yes - no further action is required. The vehicle is already equipped with all the components listed in this procedure.

1. Lower the rear axle and remove the original 5 cm (2") rear spring spacers. Discard the spacers, U-bolts, and nuts. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-02.
   1. Refer to the parts list chart for the correct part and vehicle application. (Figure 1)

1. Install the 10 cm (4") rear spring spacers, using new U-bolts and nuts.

1. Raise the rear axle and tighten the U-bolt nuts in proper sequence. Refer to WSM, Section 204-02.

1. Replace the rear shock absorbers. Refer to WSM, Section 204-02.

1. If the vehicle is equipped with a two-piece driveshaft, replace the driveshaft and center bearing bracket. Refer to WSM, Section 205-01 and proceed to Step 8.
   1. Check driveline angles, if required. Refer to WSM, Section 205-00.
   1. Failure to update the center bearing bracket, if required, may result in driveline shudder.

1. If the vehicle is equipped with a one-piece driveshaft, replace the driveshaft. Refer to WSM Section 204-02.

1. If the vehicle is equipped with a camper package with rear suspension stabilizer bar, replace both rear stabilizer bar links. Refer to WSM, Section 204-02.

1. Adjust headlamp aim. Refer to WSM, Section 417-01.

[dalebra]

Originally Posted by GiddiYup

Help!
We recently upgraded our tow vehicle to a Ford F250 and installed the
15K Superglide Model#2700 by Pullrite for a hitch.

Problem is I cant seem to get the trailer leveled enough to tow it properly and its sitting too high and more on back axle of our 29.5 bhds.

FYI - I have moved up the pin box as high as it will go (last setting) on the trailer but still no luck.

Also, my F250 seems to have the notorious sag in the rear springs and is already sitting lower than it should. Thinking that i will need a helper spring or airbag but that is going to further raise the front of the trailer tow and wont help my issue above.

Does anyone have any recommendations or options?

Thanks for your help!

Pullrite customer service also recommended the ISR Series (2700) for me too. But after doing some research I went with the traditional series (4100) as it was 7" lower in the box. Good news is I don't have the nose high problem with this hitch. The bad news is I can't do a tight 90 degree as the pin box will hit the side rails of the box. I made the choice of towing level over being able to make that 90 degree turn and happy with the result.

IMHO Ford F250 are notorious for poor rear suspension. I have yet to see anyone with a newer F250 that has not either had to add a helper spring or air bags in order to get the truck level. I would first add something to get your TV level then look at adding a sub frame on your HT to get it up so you can pull level. Otherwise you will tend to have too much weight on the rear axle and tires. Search for "Sub Frame" for more info on this forum.

[Turtle Tim]

Question...What would be considered to far out of level for the 5th. My new Seismic is slightly high on the front, not sure but would estimate about 2".

My previous 5th was about 4" difference, and the rear axle was carrying about 500lbs more than the front until I flipped the axles and leveled it out.

As near as I can tell, the Seismic looks to have about 200lbs more on the rear axles (tandem) with the slightly high front. Would that be enough to worry about?
I really don't want to flip the axles since I'm already 13'3" tall now.