Trim Sagging

[Rock]

Great that u got it done. And a great post on how u did it.
Rock

[Dallas]

Where and how are you guys accessing the screws? I am confused. I noticed this on our 2017 Pinnacle.
Pictures please!

[RedHorse1]

The screws go through the trim from below. If you look closely at the metal trim piece you will probably see it has a plastic insert. It hides the screws.
I pulled the insert free of the trim just enough to access the screws. I removed the old screws one by one and drilled into the metal frame and used 3" deck screws to secure the trim piece. After I had all the screws in place I tightened them in small increments in sequence until the trim piece looked like it was mostly back where it belonged and replaced the plastic insert and toughed up the sealant.
All of the exterior edges of your unit are probably sealed with the same trim and plastic insert.

[Cosmik Debris]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

The screws go through the trim from below. If you look closely at the metal trim piece you will probably see it has a plastic insert. It hides the screws.
I pulled the insert free of the trim just enough to access the screws. I removed the old screws one by one and drilled into the metal frame and used 3" deck screws to secure the trim piece. After I had all the screws in place I tightened them in small increments in sequence until the trim piece looked like it was mostly back where it belonged and replaced the plastic insert and toughed up the sealant.
All of the exterior edges of your unit are probably sealed with the same trim and plastic insert.

Been looking at doing this to mine and am wondering if you had chalking on that center plastic insert or not. Mine has a smear of clear sealant and I'm thinking that the body shop may have done that when they repainted the front cap. If so, does it really need that?

[Phil2008]

I'm having the same issue with my 2018 Eagle 27.5 rlts. trailer is presently at dealer and they are going to try and repair it. If not it may end up going back to the factory for repair.

[Phil2008]

Update. Picked trailer up from dealer. They used a #12x 3 1/2 inch screws. Heading out this weekend so will find out if it holds or not. Fingers crossed.

[chas111]

My dealer used 5” screws. I’ve been on a long trip, and a couple short ones...so far so good.

[RipinSC]

I did this to my FW last year. The trim is holding good. New issue now is the decals are starting to bubble at the top of the trim under the bead of caulk. I believe this is caused by the flex in the frame and now the trim is rubbing against the decals pushing them up slightly.

[Phil2008]

Just returned from a week long trip. 2 hours there, 2 hours back other than that the trailer was parked. When we got to our destination I checked and very little separation. When we got home I checked and unfortunately it separated, about a 1/4 inch gap. Not happy. 😡😡

[chas111]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

I did this to my FW last year. The trim is holding good. New issue now is the decals are starting to bubble at the top of the trim under the bead of caulk. I believe this is caused by the flex in the frame and now the trim is rubbing against the decals pushing them up slightly.

Mine are bubbling also...I can live with it at this point if it doesn’t sag!

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Fire90

Just noticed my 2015 is starting to do the same. Thanks for replies. Will add the longer screws.

Be very careful with longer screws. I did it to mine and caught one of the marker light wires. The running lights started acting goofy like lights in front, but not in back, then started popping fuses in my truck. I pulled the marker lights out and saw nothing after checking everything I possibly could. Even bought an Endoscope camera to run it inside to see if I could find the short to no avail. Finally had to take it to the dealer and over $600 later it was fixed.

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

I repaired my sagging trim today. Used 10 x 3” coated deck screws. I had some 2.5” screws but they were a bit too short. I removed every other screw and drilled a pilot hole which made a hole in the metal frame. I then put a screw in using my battery powered drill, it would stall when the screw bit into the metal. I then used a small ratchet with a X25 torkx bit to drive the screws in.
After the first half of screws were snug I removed the remainder of the screws, drilled and snugged them up as above.
Once all new screws were in and snug I tightened each one bit by bit until the trim was in it’s normal position (like tightening lug nuts or cylinder head bolts).
Worked great! Thanks to all who contributed to the solution.

When you refer to "metal", is that aluminum?

[RipinSC]

Steel on my Eagle. The aluminum frame sits on steel angle iron. You will drill into the steel and then the aluminum frame.

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

Steel on my Eagle. The aluminum frame sits on steel angle iron. You will drill into the steel and then the aluminum frame.

Probably go through several drill bits by the time the repair is finished!

[RipinSC]

I used #12 x 4 inch long self taping screws but you need to drill a pilot hole. I bought both #10 and #12 and found the # 12 to work better. Never snapped one off. I just took my FW 400 miles and everything looks great so far. I repaired it a year ago but only replaced about 1/2 of the screws with #10 screws. This time I replaced every screw with the #12 screws. You should cut your decal up about 1/8” from the trim. If you don’t and the flexing starts again, you will bubble your decals. I have attached pictures showing before and after.

[Rock]

This problem has been on going. Jayco repair center fixed mine by longer screws in 2017.

[Lindaks]

Please report this to Jayco, they told me they have had not reports of issues of this kind. If they receive enough complaints they will do a recall and fix it for free!

[Phil2008]

Interesting. I spoke to Jayco a couple of times about this and was told it would be repaired under warranty by the dealer. My opinion of Jayco is not very favorable due to ongoing issues we have had with this trailer. As the saying goes,"they talk the talk but don't walk the walk".

[RipinSC]

Originally Posted by Lindaks

Please report this to Jayco, they told me they have had not reports of issues of this kind. If they receive enough complaints they will do a recall and fix it for free!

That is just BS. Many people have had the dealer repair this. My dealer did it under warranty and the repair failed. I called Jayco and they told me that my 2 year warranty is over and this is not considered structural so it is not covered under the 3 year structure warranty. So much for good old Jayco standing behind their product like they used to do.

[elpettey]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

I used #12 x 4 inch long self taping screws but you need to drill a pilot hole. I bought both #10 and #12 and found the # 12 to work better. Never snapped one off. I just took my FW 400 miles and everything looks great so far. I repaired it a year ago but only replaced about 1/2 of the screws with #10 screws. This time I replaced every screw with the #12 screws. You should cut your decal up about 1/8” from the trim. If you don’t and the flexing starts again, you will bubble your decals. I have attached pictures showing before and after.

How did you make this repair without hitting the clearance light's wiring that runs along the inside channel just above the original wood. I could see one easily striking the wiring and causing a short.