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07-16-2016, 02:49 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 42
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Tripod for my 2017 29.5 BHSD?
New to fifth wheeling...does everyone use a tripod under the hitch pin? Without one we have some movement in the camper, but not a lot.
Thanks,
Drake
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07-16-2016, 04:45 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 113
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Install a STEADYFAST system. Far better than any tripod. My 40' Eagle doesn't move at all once I tighten up the STEADYFAST bars after parking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Jeff, Julie, Cameron, & Taylor
2012 F-250 FX4 6.7 Powerstroke Diesel Lariat
2011 Jayco 365BHS 5'er
"Cram-A-Lot Inn"
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07-16-2016, 06:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Boston
Posts: 319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Lockhart
Install a STEADYFAST system. Far better than any tripod. My 40' Eagle doesn't move at all once I tighten up the STEADYFAST bars after parking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Not sure this will fit as we have the spare tire mounted up front.
Dave...
__________________
2015 Ram 3500, CTD, CCLB Dually, Aisin, 4x4 in Maximum Steel, Andersen Ultimate Hitch (v2)
2013 Ram 2500, CTD, CCLB 4x4 in True Blue - SOLD
2016 Eagle HT 29.5 BHDS Picked-up 4/1/16
2007 Rockwood ROO 21SS - SOLD
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07-16-2016, 07:37 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Milford
Posts: 629
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We just got used to the wiggle. I thought about a tripod, or leg stabilizers, but in the end I saw it as more stuff to buy, haul, setup and take down and decided against it.
__________________
2016 Jayco Eagle HT 29.5BHDS (ordered 12/30/15, delivered 3/8/16)
2015 F-350 crew cab, short bed, 6.7L PSD, Pullrite Superglide 3300 hitch
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07-16-2016, 07:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 974
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I don't use one.
__________________
No man has a good enough memory to be a successful liar. Abraham Lincoln
2016 36FBTS Pinnacle
2016 F350, 6.7, 4x4, DRW, long bed
B & W Companion 5th wheel Hitch
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07-17-2016, 06:25 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Mansfield, MA
Posts: 411
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I use one and it does take care of some wiggle. But it comes down to how far your corner jacks are retracted and if tires are chocked in between them. My brother in law has jt strongarms on his Eagle HT and he said they work great, but i think the tripod does the trick for me...at least for now. Our 29.5 bhds doesnt move nearly as much as our old TT.
Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
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07-17-2016, 01:31 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero_Dave
Not sure this will fit as we have the spare tire mounted up front.
Dave...
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I would call the Mfg and ask. The system is too good to make an assumption about it not fitting.
Good luck.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
__________________
Jeff, Julie, Cameron, & Taylor
2012 F-250 FX4 6.7 Powerstroke Diesel Lariat
2011 Jayco 365BHS 5'er
"Cram-A-Lot Inn"
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07-17-2016, 04:24 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 174
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I can see no need for a tripod, you already have 8 points on which you support your 5th wheel.
I have very little wriggle, but its the way level out. I level out using the front jacks, then I go to the rear and lower my rear jacks just enough to move the bubble to dead center.
I use a Sears Craftsman Electronic level from my shop and I got my 5th to 0.0 L/R-F/R, then I applied bubble levels on the front and side of my 5th wheel box, over my wheels and centered and at the rear. Since there is no need to level every time 0.0 the bubble is close enough. It only takes a few min to level up and then relax
__________________
Don
US Army Infantry, my rucksack was my RV
S Texas
'17 Forrest River Cedar Creek Silverback RE
'17 F 350 CC, LB SRW King Ranch
'16 Jayco Eagle HT 27.5 RKDS GONE!
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07-17-2016, 04:35 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
I can see no need for a tripod, you already have 8 points on which you support your 5th wheel.
I have very little wriggle, but its the way level out. I level out using the front jacks, then I go to the rear and lower my rear jacks just enough to move the bubble to dead center.
I use a Sears Craftsman Electronic level from my shop and I got my 5th to 0.0 L/R-F/R, then I applied bubble levels on the front and side of my 5th wheel box, over my wheels and centered and at the rear. Since there is no need to level every time 0.0 the bubble is close enough. It only takes a few min to level up and then relax
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Thanks for your information. On a related topic, how do you level side to side? do you drive up on leveling blocks on the low side?
I see no way to adjust the landing gear or the rear stabilizers side to side... with single control.
Thanks
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07-17-2016, 05:19 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake
Thanks for your information. On a related topic, how do you level side to side? do you drive up on leveling blocks on the low side?
I see no way to adjust the landing gear or the rear stabilizers side to side... with single control.
Thanks
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I have found most RV parks are level or level within minor adjustment. Such as placing the thickness of a 2x4 or less under one of my front jacks. I also have a 1/2 in board that I can place on the 2z4.
So when you pull in check your level at that time. The 5th has some lateral movement in it and the level data will come off my bubble gages. Then I estimate if I need a 2x4 or the 1/2 in. Then I drop my front jacks and put the thickness I need and I have one more 1/2" I used to get closer to the pin hole on the jack, now your 2 front jacks are level ref your 5th wheel and you lift from there, drive out then bubble up with a slight nose up, bubble just off center.
Drop rear jacks til either one just barely touches the ground, then slide in 1/2"s or 2x4 under the opposite side, now they are level.
Now raise the rear to bring the bubble back to center. NOTE you should only need to raise the rear jacks about 1-2 in, you can tell by listening to the motor as it lifts is begins to slow down somewhat...this only take a matter of seconds.
The whole process is fast taking only a few min after you get the truck out from under.
What this does is level out and share the weight across all 8 points, putting just a bit more weight on the f/r jacks.
I do have some places where the ground plane is WOW, like a 8" drop on one side vs the other. When that occurs, I use my digital electronic level* to get the amount of lift I need to level out.
* https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...FYKFaQodfpUF7A
Its $34.99, got mine on sale at Christmas for about $20, even at $34.99 its a good deal. Here is what it will do for you. It have more than one mode of meas, , one of the modes tells you how many inches per foot to get to level. Set on rear bumper on the high side, the x the width of your rig. 1" per foot x 7 = 7 in under the wheels to level up.
I have only found that on one occasion, most of the time its <2 in out of level.
After you have gone thru this a few times you will be a pro...
__________________
Don
US Army Infantry, my rucksack was my RV
S Texas
'17 Forrest River Cedar Creek Silverback RE
'17 F 350 CC, LB SRW King Ranch
'16 Jayco Eagle HT 27.5 RKDS GONE!
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07-17-2016, 05:33 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
I have found most RV parks are level or level within minor adjustment. Such as placing the thickness of a 2x4 or less under one of my front jacks. I also have a 1/2 in board that I can place on the 2z4.
So when you pull in check your level at that time. The 5th has some lateral movement in it and the level data will come off my bubble gages. Then I estimate if I need a 2x4 or the 1/2 in. Then I drop my front jacks and put the thickness I need and I have one more 1/2" I used to get closer to the pin hole on the jack, now your 2 front jacks are level ref your 5th wheel and you lift from there, drive out then bubble up with a slight nose up, bubble just off center.
Drop rear jacks til either one just barely touches the ground, then slide in 1/2"s or 2x4 under the opposite side, now they are level.
Now raise the rear to bring the bubble back to center. NOTE you should only need to raise the rear jacks about 1-2 in, you can tell by listening to the motor as it lifts is begins to slow down somewhat...this only take a matter of seconds.
The whole process is fast taking only a few min after you get the truck out from under.
What this does is level out and share the weight across all 8 points, putting just a bit more weight on the f/r jacks.
I do have some places where the ground plane is WOW, like a 8" drop on one side vs the other. When that occurs, I use my digital electronic level* to get the amount of lift I need to level out.
* https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...FYKFaQodfpUF7A
Its $34.99, got mine on sale at Christmas for about $20, even at $34.99 its a good deal. Here is what it will do for you. It have more than one mode of meas, , one of the modes tells you how many inches per foot to get to level. Set on rear bumper on the high side, the x the width of your rig. 1" per foot x 7 = 7 in under the wheels to level up.
I have only found that on one occasion, most of the time its <2 in out of level.
After you have gone thru this a few times you will be a pro...
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Great information - Thanks!
I was given direction by one person that said just drop the stands on the landing gear, and don't worry about being in the same number of holes down from the top on each side... which to me could "torque" the landing gear. If I understand what you are saying, use the slabs of wood to make sure that the landing gear is in the same hole on each side... which would then lift the camper evenly.
Thanks again.
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07-17-2016, 06:50 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake
Great information - Thanks!
I was given direction by one person that said just drop the stands on the landing gear, and don't worry about being in the same number of holes down from the top on each side... which to me could "torque" the landing gear. If I understand what you are saying, use the slabs of wood to make sure that the landing gear is in the same hole on each side... which would then lift the camper evenly.
Thanks again.
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Not the same hole, just a hole.
The left leg does not know what the right leg hole is, they go up and down in tandem, but they adjust independently. Its the same hole that gets folk in trouble, now if not level its torqued. Your rig can absorb some torquing, the frame is flexible enough and you have plenty of that as you drive down the road hitting pot holes and speed bumps and most roads are crowned to begin with. I forgot the amount but the center is higher by about 1/2 in maybe 3/4 depending upon the type of road etc. But all roads are built that way in order to drain water quickly.
I drop my front jacks right before I lift off the 5th wheel plate. Then I look to see if both pins can go in, if not how close are they, do I need to add a 1/2" or more. What I do is lift the jack closest to a hole and pin it, then bring it down to ground level, but little load and check my other jack to see how close to a pin hole, if its right at it then lift it a bit and pin, if its more the I slide a spacer under, now the jacks are level.
__________________
Don
US Army Infantry, my rucksack was my RV
S Texas
'17 Forrest River Cedar Creek Silverback RE
'17 F 350 CC, LB SRW King Ranch
'16 Jayco Eagle HT 27.5 RKDS GONE!
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07-17-2016, 07:00 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Battle Creek
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
Not the same hole, just a hole.
The left leg does not know what the right leg hole is, they go up and down in tandem, but they adjust independently. Its the same hole that gets folk in trouble, now if not level its torqued. Your rig can absorb some torquing, the frame is flexible enough and you have plenty of that as you drive down the road hitting pot holes and speed bumps and most roads are crowned to begin with. I forgot the amount but the center is higher by about 1/2 in maybe 3/4 depending upon the type of road etc. But all roads are built that way in order to drain water quickly.
I drop my front jacks right before I lift off the 5th wheel plate. Then I look to see if both pins can go in, if not how close are they, do I need to add a 1/2" or more. What I do is lift the jack closest to a hole and pin it, then bring it down to ground level, but little load and check my other jack to see how close to a pin hole, if its right at it then lift it a bit and pin, if its more the I slide a spacer under, now the jacks are level.
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Ahhhh... got it now. Sorry to be so slow on this. I have had tow behind travel trailers before this 5th. wheel, where you can adjust all four corners independently.
I am cutting some plywood "shims plates" of various thickness, so I will be ready for my upcoming trip this week.
thanks again!
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07-17-2016, 07:19 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drake
Ahhhh... got it now. Sorry to be so slow on this. I have had tow behind travel trailers before this 5th. wheel, where you can adjust all four corners independently.
I am cutting some plywood "shims plates" of various thickness, so I will be ready for my upcoming trip this week.
thanks again!
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Not a problem at all, others may have a different approach or another way to skin the cat, this is just my way of doing it, neither right nor wrong. Hope I helped ya and got you started thinking about it.
__________________
Don
US Army Infantry, my rucksack was my RV
S Texas
'17 Forrest River Cedar Creek Silverback RE
'17 F 350 CC, LB SRW King Ranch
'16 Jayco Eagle HT 27.5 RKDS GONE!
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