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Old 05-09-2011, 09:41 PM   #1
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Question "Twin" BW/GW Valve Controls on 365BHS

Greetings... On my new 2011 365BHS, there are two SETS of valve controls for the grey water and black water tanks: one set in the "utility room" and one set at the effluent connection point.

It APPEARS that they control DIFFERENT valves on the black/grey water tanks and that BOTH need to be in the OPEN position to drain. It LOOKS like I need to have BOTH sets of valves in the closed position, then connect my flexible piping to the sewer, then OPEN the valves near the effluent connection point. Then I can control the ACTUAL discharge from the "utility room". Is this correct?

I haven't tested by "theory" with CLEAN water yet (and DEFINITELY haven't tested with black water :hihi!
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Old 05-09-2011, 10:13 PM   #2
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What is the "effluent connection point"?

Since there are two bathrooms, are there two gray and two black tanks?
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:06 AM   #3
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Hi Gibby...

First off... CONGRATULATIONS on your order for the 2012 365BHS. If you haven't been in the 365 yet, you'll really like it - we do!

The "effluent connection point" is the "dump pipe" for the BW/GW tanks, where you connect your sewer hose to your rig.

From all of the literature (and you can't see the plumbing under the rig), it appears that there is ONE 89g GW tank and ONE 89g BW tank, plumbed to a SINGLE (typical) "dump pipe". HOWEVER, there's one set of valve controls (one for each the GW and BW tanks) AT the "dump pipe" (typical for EVERY camper) AND one set of valve controls within the "utility room". That's what's confusing me.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:50 AM   #4
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Thanks Woody.........we can't wait.

I sure hope someone can answer this question for us! Could it be a backup set?

Didn't they cover it at the walkaround?
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:59 AM   #5
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Hi, Gibby...

That's what I'm THINKING in re: "backup" or "secondary" valves. Since the controls don't appear to be pneumatic, I wouldn't think you could have two controls PER valve, which would mean there are a total of FOUR valves (two for GW and two for BW). I too hope someone with more knowledge than me can help answer this question. No re: Covering this in the walkaround - they ONLY talked (briefly!) about the valve controls in the "utility closet". Our walkaround was VERY quick - more our doing because we were moving up from a 325 to the 365. Lesson learned... Let them do the "long winded" version of the walkaround - ha!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:27 AM   #6
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This is my first RV, so I NEED the long version!

I got a great deal on this thing. My Canadian dealer matched the RVDirect price. We saved 30%!
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:38 AM   #7
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OUTSTANDING, Gibby!! The 365 is a BIG rig (~40' in length) for a first RV, but you'll do fine and REALLY enjoy it! SUPER re: Your dealer matching RVDirect. We bought ours from RVDirect at also saved about 30% from "retail" at the local dealers.

Couple of things that you probably already know. As I mentioned, it's a BIG RV and fairly heavy! I pull mine with a Chevy 2500HD without problems. When I had my 2005 325BHS, I had larger "sport" brakes installed on the truck. That helps for us with the mountains out here - as well as the FANTASTIC Allison Transmission that the 2500 has!

IMHO, you ***NEED*** a diesel, and with this rig, I think the Chevy 3500HD or the Ford F350 (with single rear wheels - unless you want an obnoxiously wide truck!) would have better control than my 2500 does - simply because of the rigs weight (even dry, it's running Ī12125#).

We're having a LOT of fun "shaking" out the various nuances of the camper. If you have questions on specifics, I may be able to help having PROBABLY already gone through most of the brain damage - ha!!

Happy camping!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:49 AM   #8
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Thanks Woody.

I am sure I will have a lot of questions!

I am parking it at a camp site for this summer, then I am getting a 2012 GMC Sierra Denali 2500 HD, with the Duramax, of course! Its rated for 15,600 lbs, so I think it will be OK.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:56 AM   #9
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Bummer re: "Parking it at camp site for this summer" - this rig WANTS to travel

SUPER re: '12 GMC 2500HD. One other thing I did to my 2500HD was REPLACE the stock fuel tank with a 45g tank (~$1,000 + install). It's WELL WORTH the money. You'll find that you'll probably get about 12mpg pulling the rig, and the 20g stock tank doesn't get you very far! Of course, I'm running at higher altitudes where fuel economy isn't that great to begin with!

I hear you re: 2500HD being rated at 15,600#; however, you'll bounce! I've even upgrade my shocks. The bounce is by NO MEANS "out of control", it's more of an annoyance.

Happy camping!!
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:21 AM   #10
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Camper 10

I have a 2010 365BHS. The camper has four separate tanks. The controls in the door:the black is the front toilet (44.5 gallons), , the grey is the shower (44.5 gallons), . The controls under the camper: Black is back toilet (44.5 gallons), grey is the kitchen sink (44.5 gallons), . I open both gray water tanks when I am hooked up. The black holds alot of water and you have two tanks. You have two black tank clean outs: One is in the door and the second is on the other side of the camper, by the back slide. I have camped for 7 days with 6 people and never had to empty the black tanks. The grey for the shower fills up VERY QUICK. I pull my camper with a 04 Dodge 3500, Long Bed, Diesel, Single axle, manual 6 speed. My truck pulls the camper fine and I get 10-13 MPG. I love the camper, you need to check for poor airflow in the bunkhouse A/C. I had to do some mods to help the airflow.
Camper 10
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