Water Leak behind UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by norty1

You likely already have one if you have a set of square drive bits. It's a #2 square Roberson bit.

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Standard #2 square bit fits.

Thanks Norty1 and Grumpy. Got it. Yes, I have 3 or those. Works just fine.

[Bayoutalker]

Just for future those clamps are called oetiker clamps. They actually are a very good high pressure clamp. They make a tool to tighten them but in a pinch a pair of sidecutters can be used. Just pinch the area below the hump to tighten the clamp.

Here is a picture of the tool. It is just a pair of end nippers.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by Bayoutalker

Just for future those clamps are called oetiker clamps. They actually are a very good high pressure clamp. They make a tool to tighten them but in a pinch a pair of sidecutters can be used. Just pinch the area below the hump to tighten the clamp.

Here is a picture of the tool. It is just a pair of end nippers.Attachment 45399

That is very good to know Bayoutalker. Thanks for the pic too.

[norty1]

Same here, I never tried to tighten them but there is a special tool I hear. I think this method is less expensive and time consuming than the pex method for the manufacturer.

[BigDaddy]

I had mine looked at multiple times and the dealer always said it was fixed. It wasn’t. I found it at the double check behind the shower for the black tank washer. Good luck. You should be able to access through the back of the entertainment center or closet whichever is behind the shower.

[yellowdog00]

Originally Posted by Grainfarmer2000

Just had the same problem on our 2017 Jayco Pinnacle 38FLSA. Found 2 of the elbows on back of selectors had a minor crack. Possibly due to improper winterizing. Look up Nautilus Uni-Dock and match up your system to their method of winterizing. This info is not in the Jayco owners manual. Says to turn valves 1/4 turn and blow out lines. Replaced elbows and everything works fine. Hope this helps

This is good advice! Previously owned a 2016 Northpoint that I bought in 2015. First two winters I winterized per manual with rv antifreeze only and both Springs I had leaks around elbows behind the panel which dealer fixed. Last winter we blew out lines prior to putting in the antifreeze and no leaks this past Spring.

[michaelkies]

Go to bandbmolders.com for the Nautilus Unidoc manuals

[Johnynorthland]

Hi Craig.

I would replace the clamp with a hose clamp if it’s a crimp-on clamp. Carefully cut the crimp-on clamp off without damaging the hose.

Last winter we were camping in 35 degree weather and I got a leake under my sink,(It was a Winni class B), from one of my water pump connections. I thought it was a clamp, turns out it was the screw on connection from the hose to the water pump. It had a plastic rubber ferrel in the connector that was crushed during installation and had to be replaced. I wrapped Teflon tape around it for a quick fix and it held till the replacement came. I also carry an assortment of hose clamps with me, just in case, (a long with other backup stuff)!

Good luck,

John

[GraftonGuns]

vivus,
You should replace all of those inferior crimp clamps. They ALL leak after time. Replace them with a worm gear type clamp. (hose clamp).

[JohnWedell]

At #17 he said it is the weld on the water heater not a clamp

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by GraftonGuns

vivus,
You should replace all of those inferior crimp clamps. They ALL leak after time. Replace them with a worm gear type clamp. (hose clamp).

Those oeticker clamps are not an inferior clamp. They are a very high pressure rated clamp that is used on many high pressure fuel systems on cars and boat engines. They provide a full contact on the hose with no loose spot like a screw clamp.

They will leak if they are not tightened properly. It usually takes just a little squeeze to seal them up.

[NorthpointWhitelighting]

Had a tee leak on my Northpoint from the factory. Went to ebay and purchased an exact match. Make sure you photo or mark the lines. I had to disconnect three line to get access to the tee leaking. Once removed found a hairline crack at a seem so was a defect from the factory I guess. Hard part was putting everything back right. Slip joint pliers was all I needed to replace the tee. And don't over tighten the screw on fittings if you have to remove them. Manual states hand tight plus quarter turn. Hope this helps

[vivusCraig]

Thanks everyone for your contributions! I really appreciate it.

After being without hot water for 12 days, got our water heater changed out. My problem ended up being a leaking water heater tank at the weld.

Extended warranty would only cover the tank but I decided to replace the whole unit and pay the difference.

While they were installing the water heater, they also found two additional leaks that had to be repaired.

Nice to have hot water again.

[Rock]

Hope u kept the circuit board from old heater, they are junk on number three. U were smart to replace the entire heater. Between tank an labor it could not have been to much more. My fan is now making a noise when it slows to a stop.
Rock

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by Rock

Hope u kept the circuit board from old heater, they are junk on number three. U were smart to replace the entire heater. Between tank an labor it could not have been to much more. My fan is now making a noise when it slows to a stop.
Rock

Yep, I kept the circuit board and the fuse. Tech told me the board was worth over $200. Hot water heater comes with two year warranty.