Water Leak behind UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER

[vivusCraig]

I noticed last night that I have a water leak that appears to be coming from behind the UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER located in the basement of the coach.

I have a 2016 Pinnacle 36FBTS. I took off the cover where the water filter is installed so that I could better see what was going on. Sure enough, water is pooling on floor underneath all water connections behind the UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER. However, there is no obvious culprit.

Has anyone had a leak in this area and if so, what is the easiest way to gain access to that area to locate and fix the leak?

[norty1]

On my rig, I have to remove the stuff from the storage compartment and there are screws every 18" or so along the top and bottom of a horizonal panel remove them and the complete panel comes out allowing you to access it and other stuff.. It's likely a crimp but it needs to be addressed. Some report that high pressure can cause it, I hope you are using a pressure regulator. While in there take a few pictures and also take the opportunity to vacuum all the construction debris that's left. Some have had to replace a press on connection.

Main thing is to find and fix it quickly.

[Skipmac]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

I noticed last night that I have a water leak that appears to be coming from behind the UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER located in the basement of the coach.



I have a 2016 Pinnacle 36FBTS. I took off the cover where the water filter is installed so that I could better see what was going on. Sure enough, water is pooling on floor underneath all water connections behind the UNI-DOCK UTILITY CENTER. However, there is no obvious culprit.



Has anyone had a leak in this area and if so, what is the easiest way to gain access to that area to locate and fix the leak?

I had the same issue from the factory. Was a loose clamp on a cold water pipe. Had to take the wall down to get in there. While your in there Ck where the furnace is. Had to get to that to reset the switch on that

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by norty1

On my rig, I have to remove the stuff from the storage compartment and there are screws every 18" or so along the top and bottom of a horizonal panel remove them and the complete panel comes out allowing you to access it and other stuff.. It's likely a crimp but it needs to be addressed. Some report that high pressure can cause it, I hope you are using a pressure regulator. While in there take a few pictures and also take the opportunity to vacuum all the construction debris that's left. Some have had to replace a press on connection.

Main thing is to find and fix it quickly.

Thanks Norty1. I always have a pressure regulator. I disconnected from external water source. I used my fresh water tank last night. However, it is still leaking and the water is warm. Hoping it is not my hot water tank.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by Skipmac

I had the same issue from the factory. Was a loose clamp on a cold water pipe. Had to take the wall down to get in there. While your in there Ck where the furnace is. Had to get to that to reset the switch on that

Thanks Skipmac. I will take the wall down and check things out. The water is warm so it has to be coming from my hot water tank.

[Skipmac]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

Thanks Skipmac. I will take the wall down and check things out. The water is warm so it has to be coming from my hot water tank.

Check all fittings going to the water works one loose clamp is all it takes.

[Jim Smyth]

I had the same thing on a different trailer which was bought brand new. Clamp was loose from the factory.

[norty1]

You should easily locate it when it's in sight. Get a paper towel and move it around. I have had to tighten the fitting that screws into the hw tank. Hopefully It's a simple fix, once accessed and located.

[vivusCraig]

Ok, I have found the source of the leak. I took the wall down. It looks like it is at a Tee in one of the lines that come from the hot water. I don't see anyway to tighten the clamps. Do I need to remove the clamps and replace them?

If so, what kind of clamps should I replace them with? Will I need to buy a crimper tool or can I used some kind of compression clamps that tighten with a screw.

Sorry about the questions but I was in Information Technology all my career and don't have a lot of these practical skills.

[Jim Smyth]

A lot of times if you take a picture and post it, it will give others better ideas on how to fix it. Mine was a plain hose clamp that I put a screw driver on to tighten. If yours was a compression fitting of some sort others will be able to identify it with the picture and will help. I believe a hose clamp would work for any water line you have.

[vivusCraig]

Here is a picture of the clamps that I need to replace/tighten. Any advice would be appreciated.

Don't want to start taking things apart without everything I need.

[Jim Smyth]

Totally understand. Unfortunately I am not familiar with that clamp. Looks like a compression type clamp that gets undone by pulling the end up and out. However it also looks like a special crimping tool is needed. These rigs are put together so quick and cheaply its no wonder theres always stuff like this going wrong.



I recently had a propane line split on the top of the line next to the frame where in theory nothing could get to. I am sure you will get help soon. I would try to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from if its either a loose clamp or a split etc. May also want to go to the local RV place and pick there brains. They may have what you need part wise and you can do it yourself.

[jasum]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

Here is a picture of the clamps that I need to replace/tighten. Any advice would be appreciated.



Don't want to start taking things apart without everything I need.

You need pex clamps and a pex tool.
Home Depot or Lowe’s has them

[norty1]

Originally Posted by jasum

You need pex clamps and a pex tool.
Home Depot or Lowe’s has them

Usually 1/2 inch pex connectors and a crimping tool. It is a ring with a tool that compresses it. Different from what is there but easier and less expensive way to do it. Some hardware stores will rent you one if you buy the material. You can cut the old ones off with a small hack saw or a special tool. Make sure to drain all lines and turn off the wh and drain it.

It's a easy fix if you have all the tools. There are some threads on JOF that show the procedure.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by norty1

Usually 1/2 inch pex connectors and a crimping tool. It is a ring with a tool that compresses it. Different from what is there but easier and less expensive way to do it. Some hardware stores will rent you one if you buy the material. You can cut the old ones off with a small hack saw or a special tool. Make sure to drain all lines and turn off the wh and drain it.

It's a easy fix if you have all the tools. There are some threads on JOF that show the procedure.

Very helpful Norty1. You are always so helpful. Thanks.

Upon, further inspection, the actual source is coming from the back seams of the water heater in two places where the welds are. Looks like I am going to need a new water heater.

To make things worse, I think there is a lot of water pooled in the underbelly of the coach. Ouch. Should I be remove the underbelly to let things dry out. Not sure how much water is in there but enough to see it drip from some of the screws in the underbelly.

Right now, I have a fan going with a hair blower to dry things up in the basement a bit. The last thing I want is for mold to start or rot to set in.

[norty1]

Are you sure it’s not a loose connection where It screws into the fitting on the wh? I would remove a little underbelly and take a look to see if it’s soaked thru.

Are you in warranty? I would persue that if the weld is defective.

[vivusCraig]

Originally Posted by norty1

Are you sure it’s not a loose connection where It screws into the fitting on the wh? I would remove a little underbelly and take a look to see if it’s soaked thru.

Are you in warranty? I would persue that if the weld is defective.

Yep it is the weld. Five months out of warranty but I have extended warranty which I will pursue. I see it leaking out of the underbelly so I know there is water in there. I would imagine the insulation in there is not much good after that either.

I noticed it requires a star screwdriver to remove the screws from the underbelly. I don't have the right size so it will be a trip to the hardware store.

[Grainfarmer2000]

Just had the same problem on our 2017 Jayco Pinnacle 38FLSA. Found 2 of the elbows on back of selectors had a minor crack. Possibly due to improper winterizing. Look up Nautilus Uni-Dock and match up your system to their method of winterizing. This info is not in the Jayco owners manual. Says to turn valves 1/4 turn and blow out lines. Replaced elbows and everything works fine. Hope this helps

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by vivusCraig

I noticed it requires a star screwdriver to remove the screws from the underbelly. I don't have the right size so it will be a trip to the hardware store.

Standard #2 square bit fits.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Standard #2 square bit fits.

You likely already have one if you have a set of square drive bits. It's a #2 square Roberson bit.