Weak brakes

[Ela1948]

We bought 31.5 RLTS back in Dec. 2011. From day one it has had poor braking. I tow with a 2011 Ford F250 with integrated brake control. With the maximum setting, the connector is putting out 12 volts. I have checked 2 of the wheels and there is 11.5 volts that far back. When you jack each wheel up independently, each wheel is applying brake. It has dexter self adjusting brakes. Although there is some brake applied when you use the Manuel brake lever, there is not enough braking to stop the truck and trailer if the road is anything but flat. I've had it to the dealers twice and they claim it's nothing wrong. The last trailer we had, you could never apply maximum power or you would get wheel lock.
Has anyone had any situation like this??? This trailer is 2 thousand pounds heavier then the last. I still have to think there is an issue I've missed..

[Panhead]

We have the same model trailer in the 2012 (early) year model and a 2007 F250 with factory brake control. I keep the control at 8.5 and she stops just fine. I did find last year by accident that the door side rear break adjuster had come apart and messed up things in there pretty good. Jayco paid the shop where I was when this was discovered to replace the entire assembly.

Steve

[Ela1948]

With your unit and truck, at maximum setting, could you lock a wheel??? Thanks for your return!!

[RVhiker]

I have a 2011 28.5 RLS. I'm using a Prodigy (p2?) controller. At 9 volts at 25 MPH one or more wheels will lock up. Suggest that you check the amperage draw at each magnet with full voltage applied and there should be around 3 amps draw at each magnet. If so, then your brakes probably have a mechanical problem. If not, then you might want to check into wiring issues. To eliminate the controller or truck wiring as an issue, you could substitute a fully charged 12 volt battery for the controller and measure voltage and amps at each magnet. If that is still low, then your trailer wiring may have an issue. I found a couple of very questionable connections in my trailer's wiring. Here's a link to a Dexter axle manual which has very good and thorough information on electric brakes: Dexter Service Manual

[Panhead]

Originally Posted by Ela1948

With your unit and truck, at maximum setting, could you lock a wheel??? Thanks for your return!!

I can lock up one or more wheels at the 8.5 setting with full or very heavy pedal.

Steve

[Ela1948]

Originally Posted by Panhead

I can lock up one or more wheels at the 8.5 setting with full or very heavy pedal.

Steve

Thank you, I obviously have a problem. You have helped to confirm that!!!

[Ela1948]

Thank you for your insight and the dexter website. That gives me a better game plan I hope!!

[Ela1948]

Originally Posted by RVhiker

I have a 2011 28.5 RLS. I'm using a Prodigy (p2?) controller. At 9 volts at 25 MPH one or more wheels will lock up. Suggest that you check the amperage draw at each magnet with full voltage applied and there should be around 3 amps draw at each magnet. If so, then your brakes probably have a mechanical problem. If not, then you might want to check into wiring issues. To eliminate the controller or truck wiring as an issue, you could substitute a fully charged 12 volt battery for the controller and measure voltage and amps at each magnet. If that is still low, then your trailer wiring may have an issue. I found a couple of very questionable connections in my trailer's wiring. Here's a link to a Dexter axle manual which has very good and thorough information on electric brakes: Dexter Service Manual

Your comment on "questionable connections" were almost an under statement. I understand that everyone is trying to cut corner to keep cost at a minimum, but those electrical connections with that crimped steel band have GOT to give issues down the road!!!
If that turns out not to be most of my problems it will surprise me....
Dexter wants you to test the amps coming from the controller. Because its an intergrated unit of the truck and will be 12 amps or more, I'm no sure how to do that. I'm going to test individual wheel amps first and see if anything looks a miss before I go any further. Again, thanks for your input...

[norty1]

I had the same problem with my new rig. Found some corroded connections but nothing seemed to make them right. After the dealer looked at it twice, they got permission from Jayco to remove the hubs. Found the brake shoes were contaminated with grease from day one. I never put a grease gun on them . Must have been from the factory or in delivery?

Anyhow Dexter and Jayco replaced all 4 backing plates under warranty and now I can stop on a dime.

[The Way Life Should Be]

Originally Posted by norty1

I had the same problem with my new rig. Found some corroded connections but nothing seemed to make them right. After the dealer looked at it twice, they got permission from Jayco to remove the hubs. Found the brake shoes were contaminated with grease from day one. I never put a grease gun on them . Must have been from the factory or in delivery?

Anyhow Dexter and Jayco replaced all 4 backing plates under warranty and now I can stop on a dime.

Same Problem / Same Solution by Jayco and or Dexter under warranty.

[Ela1948]

Dealership called the other day and said that Dexter had OKed rewireing the brakes and replacing magnets to fix my braking issue!!

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Ela1948

Dealership called the other day and said that Dexter had OKed rewireing the brakes and replacing magnets to fix my braking issue!!

They are doing the right thing. I am sure you will be happy soon.

BTW, don't forget that new shoes must be burnished in and your brakes will not be as great as they will be after going thru the process. Read about it in the Dexter manual. Most of us never have to do it because it has been towed new from the factory.

[chlinthi]

I just picked up a 2013 Eagle 31.5 FBHS and also tow with a 2011 F250. When we did the orientation and walkthrough on my unit I noticed similar problems where the brake controller has to be set all the way to 10 and I still can't lock up the brakes. We even pulled the trailer slowly across the flat payment and yanked the cord on the emergency brake cable on the fifth wheel and the trailer just kept rolling, wheels didn't lock up. The Jayco dealer just told me that I shouldn't expect the brakes to lock up on such a large trailer. Should I go back and challenge them again and ask them to check for grease on the brake shoes? any advice here?

[norty1]

I would!.. I spent almost a year and a half fretting about mine. They should lock up on gravel, Don't let anyone tell you different.

[Ela1948]

The problem is that everyone has a different interpretation of good brakes. Someone on this site gives you Dexter's axle manual. In it it gives the proper amps that each magnet should draw as well as voltage. With a multimeter, it's pretty easy to prove if there is a voltage or amperage issue. I fooled around for 18 months trying to convince myself that maybe the brakes weren't faulty. That maybe because the trailer was heavier, it wasn't suppose to react as rapidly. With the information that I got from dexters web site and my own amperage readings, the service department at my dealership quickly got on board that there really was a problem.
My suggestion is to get them to hook there tow vehicle up to your trailer and see if the trailer brakes will stop the rig by using only the trailer brakes. A lot of dealerships will pull the emergency switch and check each wheel to see if ther is any resistance. IF there is ANY resistance, they assume that the brakes are working correctly.
I'm certainly guilty of not reacting quick enough to a bad situation. If the trailer brakes alone won't stop both truck and trailer in a short distance, there's something wrong!!