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Old 08-05-2013, 06:20 PM   #1
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Weak brakes

We bought 31.5 RLTS back in Dec. 2011. From day one it has had poor braking. I tow with a 2011 Ford F250 with integrated brake control. With the maximum setting, the connector is putting out 12 volts. I have checked 2 of the wheels and there is 11.5 volts that far back. When you jack each wheel up independently, each wheel is applying brake. It has dexter self adjusting brakes. Although there is some brake applied when you use the Manuel brake lever, there is not enough braking to stop the truck and trailer if the road is anything but flat. I've had it to the dealers twice and they claim it's nothing wrong. The last trailer we had, you could never apply maximum power or you would get wheel lock.
Has anyone had any situation like this??? This trailer is 2 thousand pounds heavier then the last. I still have to think there is an issue I've missed..
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:42 PM   #2
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We have the same model trailer in the 2012 (early) year model and a 2007 F250 with factory brake control. I keep the control at 8.5 and she stops just fine. I did find last year by accident that the door side rear break adjuster had come apart and messed up things in there pretty good. Jayco paid the shop where I was when this was discovered to replace the entire assembly.

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Old 08-05-2013, 07:08 PM   #3
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With your unit and truck, at maximum setting, could you lock a wheel??? Thanks for your return!!
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:39 PM   #4
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I have a 2011 28.5 RLS. I'm using a Prodigy (p2?) controller. At 9 volts at 25 MPH one or more wheels will lock up. Suggest that you check the amperage draw at each magnet with full voltage applied and there should be around 3 amps draw at each magnet. If so, then your brakes probably have a mechanical problem. If not, then you might want to check into wiring issues. To eliminate the controller or truck wiring as an issue, you could substitute a fully charged 12 volt battery for the controller and measure voltage and amps at each magnet. If that is still low, then your trailer wiring may have an issue. I found a couple of very questionable connections in my trailer's wiring. Here's a link to a Dexter axle manual which has very good and thorough information on electric brakes: Dexter Service Manual
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ela1948 View Post
With your unit and truck, at maximum setting, could you lock a wheel??? Thanks for your return!!
I can lock up one or more wheels at the 8.5 setting with full or very heavy pedal.

Steve
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:59 AM   #6
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I can lock up one or more wheels at the 8.5 setting with full or very heavy pedal.

Steve
Thank you, I obviously have a problem. You have helped to confirm that!!!
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:02 AM   #7
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Thank you for your insight and the dexter website. That gives me a better game plan I hope!!
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhiker View Post
I have a 2011 28.5 RLS. I'm using a Prodigy (p2?) controller. At 9 volts at 25 MPH one or more wheels will lock up. Suggest that you check the amperage draw at each magnet with full voltage applied and there should be around 3 amps draw at each magnet. If so, then your brakes probably have a mechanical problem. If not, then you might want to check into wiring issues. To eliminate the controller or truck wiring as an issue, you could substitute a fully charged 12 volt battery for the controller and measure voltage and amps at each magnet. If that is still low, then your trailer wiring may have an issue. I found a couple of very questionable connections in my trailer's wiring. Here's a link to a Dexter axle manual which has very good and thorough information on electric brakes: Dexter Service Manual
Your comment on "questionable connections" were almost an under statement. I understand that everyone is trying to cut corner to keep cost at a minimum, but those electrical connections with that crimped steel band have GOT to give issues down the road!!!
If that turns out not to be most of my problems it will surprise me....
Dexter wants you to test the amps coming from the controller. Because its an intergrated unit of the truck and will be 12 amps or more, I'm no sure how to do that. I'm going to test individual wheel amps first and see if anything looks a miss before I go any further. Again, thanks for your input...
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:49 PM   #9
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I had the same problem with my new rig. Found some corroded connections but nothing seemed to make them right. After the dealer looked at it twice, they got permission from Jayco to remove the hubs. Found the brake shoes were contaminated with grease from day one. I never put a grease gun on them . Must have been from the factory or in delivery?

Anyhow Dexter and Jayco replaced all 4 backing plates under warranty and now I can stop on a dime.
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Old 08-06-2013, 10:51 PM   #10
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I had the same problem with my new rig. Found some corroded connections but nothing seemed to make them right. After the dealer looked at it twice, they got permission from Jayco to remove the hubs. Found the brake shoes were contaminated with grease from day one. I never put a grease gun on them . Must have been from the factory or in delivery?

Anyhow Dexter and Jayco replaced all 4 backing plates under warranty and now I can stop on a dime.
Same Problem / Same Solution by Jayco and or Dexter under warranty.
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