Will we need more AC?

[Jim Smyth]

I have the same unit however ours is only 30amp and obviously not prewired. We found out only 1 AC was not enough for us. I wouldnt remove the back one and move it up front. I would get a Coleman Mach 8 low profile AC for the bedroom. Only 8" high and not too loud.



https://www.airxcel.com/rv/coleman-m...ch-8/mach-8-ac


Reason being is height. Your front AC will be the highest point on your 5er and you dont IMO want any more height. You can do either ducted or not and will have to set up another thermostat.


Since I didnt have 50 amps I just ran wires from the bedroom ceiling, down the pantry wall and into the garage. From there I put a female socket in the wall. I now just run a 20 amp extension cord to the pedestal when I need a second AC blowing and didnt have to mess with the 50 amp conversion. Took a whole day to pull off but was well worth it.

[Grumpy]

Is that on the wall? Any a/c ducting or connections would be in the ceiling where the roof vent is, should be in the center. I don't have a clue as to what you found.

[triplebvalp]

SeventyGTX, I'm with Grumpy on that picture … I don't have a clue what I am looking at.

[GrandSport]

SeventyGTX,

Have you considered the Coleman Mach 15 Heat Pump RV Roof AC for the main living area, we have a Jayco Seismic toy hauler with 2-13.5k units and one 15k heat pump in the main area ducted to the BR and Garage, In the Georgia winters most of the time the heat pump is all the heat we need, if it gets too cold we will then use the furnace. Saves a ton on propane.

Good luck,

[JaycoMLOK]

I have know idea either. When I first saw it thought I was look a part of a ice maker.
How big is whatever that is?

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

I will give them a ring soon. I went out and took the bedroom vent frame out to see if I could find any wires or ducts. Besides the wood studs on the left and right, the front and back of the opening had thin plywood covering the openings. The forward side had a hole punched in it and I took a pic of what I saw. I have no clue what that is or why the plywood was broke like that.....

Appears to be a outlet box made for hollow wall installation without being secured to a stuff. Is it just laying in there?


Earl

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Is that on the wall? Any a/c ducting or connections would be in the ceiling where the roof vent is, should be in the center. I don't have a clue as to what you found.

Like I said, that is what I found when I removed the deep vent frame in the bedroom. I should have taken a pic further back so you could see exactly where it was, but just wanted to take one of that "thing" behind the hole.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Appears to be a outlet box made for hollow wall installation without being secured to a stuff. Is it just laying in there?


Earl

It is solid, at least I couldnt move it with my fingers. But I went out and took another pic so you guys can see exactly where it is...

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Jim Smyth

I have the same unit however ours is only 30amp and obviously not prewired. We found out only 1 AC was not enough for us. I wouldnt remove the back one and move it up front. I would get a Coleman Mach 8 low profile AC for the bedroom. Only 8" high and not too loud.



https://www.airxcel.com/rv/coleman-m...ch-8/mach-8-ac


Reason being is height. Your front AC will be the highest point on your 5er and you dont IMO want any more height. You can do either ducted or not and will have to set up another thermostat.


Since I didnt have 50 amps I just ran wires from the bedroom ceiling, down the pantry wall and into the garage. From there I put a female socket in the wall. I now just run a 20 amp extension cord to the pedestal when I need a second AC blowing and didnt have to mess with the 50 amp conversion. Took a whole day to pull off but was well worth it.

Believe me, height is always a concern for us as the pic below shows with our previous Wildcat. Although the Jayco is actually lower than the Wildcat by about 10 inches according to specs and visually under my cover. I will weigh out all options, but would really rather have the 15k unit in the rear and don't want to fork out the $$$ for two new units. It may not look like it in the pic, but I'm pretty sure a Coleman Mach like the one we have in the rear will clear the cover. Especially since the Eagle is a lot lower in the front. There is no way I could put AC in the front of this FW...

[triplebvalp]

SeventyGTX, My 2017 Eagle 27.5RKDS measures 12'6" attached to my truck.

[Grumpy]

Makes sense now, your close up was really "UP CLOSE"... . As Earl said that looks like a junction box. You need to pull on it to see what it produces, or just feel around (watch for splinters) and see if you can feel the wires... Ducting connections are on the side

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

SeventyGTX, My 2017 Eagle 27.5RKDS measures 12'6" attached to my truck.

That was what the Wildcat specs were, actually 12'7" without an AC in the front, plus I added 16" tires and wheels that raised it another couple inches. The wheels and tires are now on the Jayco. This Eagle is listed at 11' 8" if I remember correctly and now a couple inches more with the new wheels. I'm going to get my truck back under it with the Andersen hitch raised where I release it. Then crawl up on top to measure for clearance before I order anything. Thanks for the info on yours, I'm sure it's close to what mine would be with a front AC.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

Makes sense now, your close up was really "UP CLOSE"... . As Earl said that looks like a junction box. You need to pull on it to see what it produces, or just feel around (watch for splinters) and see if you can feel the wires... Ducting connections are on the side

That piece of plywood with the hole in it is just in with a few staples. I think I will go out there tomorrow and pull it off completely and see what I got.

[poohbear]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

Ok that is where I was getting a bit confused as Grumpy stated you can hookup the bedroom unit to the ducted system. Either way is no big deal. If we have to adjust the bedroom manually, so be it.

Yes, I am handy and have plenty of tools and could do it myself, but getting that 86 pound unit on the roof would be a challenge to say the least.

When you take your trip Stop by our farm & I will set them up there with my tractors pallet forks.

[GHen]

I would also recommend double checking your finished height based on your tow vehicle setup. I’m thinking my dealer was recommending me to install a low profile unit if I added an A/C unit in the bedroom.

2017 2500 Silverado Duramax with, I think 20” upgrade rims.

[Big1]

Great, it looks like that you are well on your way and yes I do agree with all of what has been said. The wife and I went to Vegas, to Nellis AFB and we only had one a/c and I made myself a promise that I would never have another fiver without two a/c.

Now with all that said to get max airflow on the a/c you have in the living area I would take all of your vents cover to see if you have any blocks. On most of the fiver, the factory doesn't do a good job hooking up the ducts, I have find that some of my vent cover was place right so I had to use some aluminum. Let me post some pics because sometime it's hard for me to make any sense explaining things.

And with them not connecting them correctly you lose a lot of cold air between the duct and your ceiling.

[Big1]

On the bottom pics it suppose to go up inside the duct but sometimes it don't make it all the way inside the black ring, it will leak inside the ceiling.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

It is solid, at least I couldnt move it with my fingers. But I went out and took another pic so you guys can see exactly where it is...

If I'm looking at this correctly, that foil tape on the left will lead into a duct. There should be a similar taped outlet on the opposite side of the opening.

That broken luann is kind of funny, again if I'm seeing it right... I would assume that surface mount box was supposed to be mounted to that piece of luann. Looks like someone at the factory got lazy and just broke a hole and threw it in. OR, the plastic trim for the vent wouldn't fit right with it there, so they broke out the hole and stuffed it in so they could get the trim on.

Either way, behind that piece of luann is where your 110V and thermostat wiring should be.

If it were me, I would purchase a Coleman 15K unit (and I agree that PPL has about the best prices), and a Coleman "Chill Grille" for ducted AC. You may need a control box as well, my new unit didn't come with one so I had to cannibalize it off my old unit. I don't know if the various ceiling assemblies come with them or not... PPL or AirExcel can help you with what exact parts you need. Move the 13.5 unit up to the bedroom and install it and tap it into the ductwork and install the chill grille. Then put the 15K unit in the main area where the 13.5 was. It should be plug and play.

If the existing unit is 15K (have you verified what BTU your existing unit is?), then you may want to pick up a high efficiency 13.5 or 15K unit for the front. It would be handy if the existing one was 15K, then you wouldn't need to move it.

ETA: And you definitely want to go around and remove all your vent trim rings/registers and see what's going on. In my trailer, the ring on the back of the surface vent stuck WAY up into the duct which restricted air flow significantly as well as leaked cold air into the "attic". I removed every register and taped the ceiling to the duct with aluminum HVAC tape so there was a smooth, seamless path for the air to flow. I removed and discarded the connector rings and reinstalled the registers.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

If I'm looking at this correctly, that foil tape on the left will lead into a duct. There should be a similar taped outlet on the opposite side of the opening.

That broken luann is kind of funny, again if I'm seeing it right... I would assume that surface mount box was supposed to be mounted to that piece of luann. Looks like someone at the factory got lazy and just broke a hole and threw it in. OR, the plastic trim for the vent wouldn't fit right with it there, so they broke out the hole and stuffed it in so they could get the trim on.

Either way, behind that piece of luann is where your 110V and thermostat wiring should be.

If it were me, I would purchase a Coleman 15K unit (and I agree that PPL has about the best prices), and a Coleman "Chill Grille" for ducted AC. You may need a control box as well, my new unit didn't come with one so I had to cannibalize it off my old unit. I don't know if the various ceiling assemblies come with them or not... PPL or AirExcel can help you with what exact parts you need. Move the 13.5 unit up to the bedroom and install it and tap it into the ductwork and install the chill grille. Then put the 15K unit in the main area where the 13.5 was. It should be plug and play.

If the existing unit is 15K (have you verified what BTU your existing unit is?), then you may want to pick up a high efficiency 13.5 or 15K unit for the front. It would be handy if the existing one was 15K, then you wouldn't need to move it.

ETA: And you definitely want to go around and remove all your vent trim rings/registers and see what's going on. In my trailer, the ring on the back of the surface vent stuck WAY up into the duct which restricted air flow significantly as well as leaked cold air into the "attic". I removed every register and taped the ceiling to the duct with aluminum HVAC tape so there was a smooth, seamless path for the air to flow. I removed and discarded the connector rings and reinstalled the registers.

Yep, there is foil on the opposite side of the vent opening. I just assumed it was insulation but will hopefully pull it back later on today to see what's behind it. This morning it's 10 degrees out so it's not happening for a while!

According to the pdf file Jayco sent me, it came with a 13.5 BTU unit and is prepped for second AC. So, the current plan is to move the rear to the front all depending on clearance of my metal cover. But it should be ok. I would prefer a low profile unit, but then I would still have a 13.5 in the rear.

I have bookmarked this thread for all the help you guys have given me. It is very much appreciated.

[2naEagle]

Sounds like you have a good plan. I also think it's a good idea to consider a unit with the heat pump. We really like the one we have.