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Old 05-06-2022, 12:45 PM   #1
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Winterizing

I purchased a 2007 Designer used. This would be our 4th so I have the basic knowledge of how they operate. The owners before us never used RV antifreeze to winterize, they used 32 psi and just blew the water lines out. In Montana I would rather pump RV antifreeze through out the system. When I attempt to pump the system I turn the Yellow valve closed. However it takes 9 gallons because it still fills the hot water tank. There are no other valves to close to stop flow to the hot water tank.
Can someone please help me out. I am starting to question myself.
Thank you.
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Old 05-06-2022, 01:08 PM   #2
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First of all, there should be some kind of bypass for the HWH. If not, add one. Try to recover the antifreeze in the HWH tank and re-use it. The previous owner probably never had a bypass because they blew the lines out, which is actually very efficient. Although adding antifreeze is the old school norm, blowing out the lines seems to be easier and less messy. If there's no water in the system, there's nothing to freeze or slush up.

Can you take a pic of the convenience center and post it?
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Old 05-06-2022, 01:35 PM   #3
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Although adding antifreeze is the old school norm, blowing out the lines seems to be easier and less messy. If there's no water in the system, there's nothing to freeze or slush up.
I'm thinking you live where deep freeze is rare. Nothing old school about it, it's the norm in WI to use anti-freeze. In Jan & Feb we can go several weeks with highs in the low 20s, and usually a couple of weeks in early Jan with lows below zero. It only takes about 20 minutes to do and isn't hard at all. RV anti-freeze sometimes sells out in late Oct at the stores that sell it here. The store I was buying it from brings in a pallet full when they stock it.
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Old 05-06-2022, 01:48 PM   #4
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I'm thinking you live where deep freeze is rare. Nothing old school about it, it's the norm in WI to use anti-freeze. In Jan & Feb we can go several weeks with highs in the low 20s, and usually a couple of weeks in early Jan with lows below zero. It only takes about 20 minutes to do and isn't hard at all. RV anti-freeze sometimes sells out in late Oct at the stores that sell it here. The store I was buying it from brings in a pallet full when they stock it.
But why not just blow the lines out and remove any culprit from freezing?

And air is free!
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Old 05-06-2022, 01:51 PM   #5
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I'm thinking you live where deep freeze is rare. Nothing old school about it, it's the norm in WI to use anti-freeze. In Jan & Feb we can go several weeks with highs in the low 20s, and usually a couple of weeks in early Jan with lows below zero. It only takes about 20 minutes to do and isn't hard at all. RV anti-freeze sometimes sells out in late Oct at the stores that sell it here. The store I was buying it from brings in a pallet full when they stock it.
Contraire my brotha...we freeze up pretty good here.
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Old 05-06-2022, 05:22 PM   #6
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I also only blow the lines out, but I take my time turning everything on and off, open and closed, different valve setting. Never had a problem and we can have weeks between 0 and 20f. Since I use the rv occasionally in winter I need to blow the lines out a dozen times each winter.

Only time I use antifreeze is when itís already below freezing and I can tell not every thing is thawed out. Then I put in just enough antifreeze to get into the pump.

As a side note, part of my winterizing procedure is to make sure the batteries are fully charged then completely disconnect them. Even if I am connected to shore power. Power outage and ruin the batteries. Even though I have solar panels, I donít take the chance that they could be covered with snow and fully disconnect the batteries.
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Old 05-06-2022, 07:47 PM   #7
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If you have a residential fridge with water dispenser, blowing the lines out won’t cut it. Been there, done that, and have the busted pressure valve to show for it.

Even the Whirlpool “winterizing” procedure calls for disconnecting the lower line connectors and blowing air across them to siphon out the water, which I did, and there was still just enough water laying in the valve to bust it in a deep freeze.

Now I run the pink stuff every winter through the whole rig (except the water heater), peace of mind that I’ve diluted any hiding water.
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Old 05-06-2022, 08:05 PM   #8
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You can easily add a bypass kit for your water heater. This one is for a 6 gallon tank:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...23503LFVP.html

And this is for a 10 gallon tank, if that's what's in your rig:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...23504LFVP.html

You can check around the web for any better price. I just grabbed this site first.
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Old 05-06-2022, 09:20 PM   #9
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I live in northern Indiana and have winters as cold as they get. Wisconsin or Michigan might have longer but not colder. I've been blowing out my lines and not using antifreeze in the water lines as long as I've owned a camper. Never a problem. The idea that you need antifreeze because you have very cold temps is not supported from my experience. Blowing out the lines is quicker and simpler and cheaper. I don't know anything about having a residential fridge though.

Now addressing the original post I still use my bypass on the water heater. I open the drain on the water heater and leave it open through the winter. Using pex and some valves it would be easy to install a bypass. It's not complicated.
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Old 05-07-2022, 06:30 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DocBrown View Post
I'm thinking you live where deep freeze is rare. Nothing old school about it, it's the norm in WI to use anti-freeze. In Jan & Feb we can go several weeks with highs in the low 20s, and usually a couple of weeks in early Jan with lows below zero. It only takes about 20 minutes to do and isn't hard at all. RV anti-freeze sometimes sells out in late Oct at the stores that sell it here. The store I was buying it from brings in a pallet full when they stock it.
Living in ND we get as cold as anybody, but I simply blow my lines out every year and have yet to have any issues. A local dealer does the same. With an air compressor and the right fittings it is simple to do and costs nothing. Blow every line 2 or 3 times and it's impossible to leave enough water in a line to cause any damage. It doesn't matter if it's 20 degrees or 20 below. The lines are empty.

It all comes down to doing what you are comfortable with.
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Old 05-07-2022, 01:21 PM   #11
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Thank you for your speedy reply.
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Old 05-07-2022, 01:31 PM   #12
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Thank you for your input and the link. That's exactly what I need. Will order one today. Every other 5th wheel I have owned had the bypass valves installed from the factory. Thank again.
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Old 05-07-2022, 01:32 PM   #13
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Thanks. I will try that next time I winterize. It's a lot cheaper.
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Old 05-07-2022, 03:15 PM   #14
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Regarding blowing out the water lines with air pressure.

While many of us already know, for those who may not know I wanted to add that you really need to use a high volume air compressor to blow out the water lines (commonly a 1~1.5hp 120v compressor or larger) vs a small 12v tire inflator compressor.

If you plan to blow the lines out with a low cost 12v tire compressor, while it may be able to run ~32psi, it doesn't have enough volume to push all of the water out and you run a higher risk of not getting all of the water out of everything. ~CA
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Old 05-07-2022, 05:15 PM   #15
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We had a travel trailer that I had to add a bypass kit to. I did not want to put RV antifreeze in the hot water tank. Our TT that we have now has a bypass system built in. I now blow out the hot and cold water lines with air do not forget the outside shower and toilet. It is so much easyer. I let the air blow until I do not see water droplets comming out of the fixture. I put about 1 cup of RV anti freeze into each drain trap. I also make sure I get about a quart of RV antifreeze in all three holding tanks so there is no freeze ups at the valves. I had a tank crack by the valve from water being trapped by the gate. I now let all three valves stay open overnight to make all the water is gone. That may be overkill, but we have not had any more freeze damage.
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Old 09-12-2022, 12:48 AM   #16
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Well, winter is on it's way here in Montana. I asked earlier about winterizing my Desinger and adding the suggested hot water tank diverter valve. I have one yellow value that doesn't stop RV antifreeze from filling the tank. Please help me figure out where to add the shut off valves and bypass hose.
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Old 09-12-2022, 06:22 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Woodexp View Post
Well, winter is on it's way here in Montana. I asked earlier about winterizing my Desinger and adding the suggested hot water tank diverter valve. I have one yellow value that doesn't stop RV antifreeze from filling the tank. Please help me figure out where to add the shut off valves and bypass hose.
https://rv101withmarkpolk.com/2019/1...-pass-systems/


https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P235...2985249&sr=8-9



You tube and a link to look for bypass kit
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Old 09-12-2022, 08:59 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Woodexp View Post
Well, winter is on it's way here in Montana. I asked earlier about winterizing my Desinger and adding the suggested hot water tank diverter valve. I have one yellow value that doesn't stop RV antifreeze from filling the tank. Please help me figure out where to add the shut off valves and bypass hose.
A three valve system is very easy. See the diagram below. It shows the valves set for both winterizing and normal use

Name:  3-valve-water-heater-bypass_.jpg
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Duke's Two Valves system (Amazon link) works too. These are 3-way valves. Which every way the valve handle is point is the direction of water flow.
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Old 09-12-2022, 07:01 PM   #19
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Thank you everyone for the great help and suggestions. I don't think I can miss with these great Sites and pictures.
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Old 10-23-2022, 07:35 PM   #20
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Air blow out question

Hi all,

Not trying to hijack the thread, but this question seems to fit here so - Using my air compressor to blow out the lines, and still hear a little gurgling in the hot water tank and a drop comes out now and then when either the tank drain or low point drain is open - low point is very close to the hot water heater. Is this ok or do I need to have totally dry air coming out? Thanks
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