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Old 11-23-2015, 10:58 AM   #1
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Question Winterizing our 377RLBH...feedback please

We're in Illinois and not leaving for warmer weather until January, so I winterized our coach this weekend so we don't have to keep it open and heated for 6 more weeks.

It was a bit aggravating - the manual is PAINFULLY generic, showing nothing specific to the 377 RLBH as far as where the drains are and left out some key pieces. The method walked through in the manual didn't work (opening ALL drains and faucets at once), and it took me hours of in and out, back and forth to (hopefully) get all the water out.

Here's what I did - any feedback would be great, especially if I missed something:
- I opened the underbelly drains that I could see, which I believe are the fresh water tank and refrigerator.
- My tanks were already empty, but I opened the two grey water & black water valves to let out the remaining water that came out with the blow out.
- I let the last bit of water out of the water dispenser in the refer(residential), removed the water filter from the refrigerator, emptied the ice bin, shut the ice maker off.
- I removed the drain plug on the hot water heater and let it drain and replaced the plug.
- I removed the whole system filter and put the housing back on.
- I opened all faucets.
- Ran the pump for 20-30 seconds
- Set on City Water, I used a blowout adapter with an air compressor, opened all faucets and away we go...very little actually happened, even with the compressor at 40PSI.
- I thought the Low Point sticker by the basement was perhaps for overflow at first but decided to remove the panel and found the two drain lines and opened those. Some water came out, but still not much.

- I then started closing faucets and drains until it was only one open at a time and started to see some progress...some real water was finally coming out, so I then kept alternating between the shower, stool, vanity, kitchen sink, outside shower, and low point drain lines, opening them one at a time and closing the previous one so all air was being directed to one faucet at a time. I did this for at least an hour or more. Spurts of water came out every time. I just kept alternating, moving from one to the next until finally the last couple rounds produced nothing but a drop or two.
- I then removed the hot water heater drain just to make sure water didn't somehow get back in the tank.
- Closed tank valves, turned off the refer, pulled the slides in and left. It's still plugged in to keep the battery charged but heat is off now.

I saw on another thread about additional valves being located under the stove and under the island, but I didn't see either on mine.

I would think there is a much easier/faster way to do this - perhaps a specific order of faucets to prevent water from going into other lines that were previously clear?

I don't know. It just took so long and I just found it to be a bit aggravating and with such poor instructions in the manual I'm very much hoping I did it correctly.

Any feedback? Did I miss something?

TIA
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:15 AM   #2
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I live in Illinois, too. But I use RV anti-freeze to winterize the fresh water system. I know you said you were leaving in six weeks, but a lot can happen between then and now. Like the 6 degrees we had over the weekend!

The problem with using air is you never really know whether all the water is out. You can blow out the lines, but some water could remain in valves, which can freeze and break. The anti-freeze displaces the water, so when you see the pink stuff flowing out of each faucet, you know that you are protected. And when the anti-freeze flows out of the faucets, all of the P-traps will be filled with antifreeze, as well.

That said - and to answer your question . . .
- Did you dump all water from tanks?
- Did you purge water from the city water hose connection line?
- Did you blow out the tank rinser lines?
- Did you step on the toilet flush valve to purge that water line?
- Did you fill P-traps with anti-freeze?
- Did you bypass the HW heater before blowing out the lines?

Also - If you use air method, I recommend keeping all faucet valves open, just in case there is expansion from freezing water that may remain (I open them using the pink stuff, too). And if you are only using air, leave the low point drain valves open, as well.

And I leave the HW heater drain plug out.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:11 PM   #3
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Did you open the fridge drain valve on the underside of the rig?
The valve under the island is tucked down behind the wood paneling that cover the water pipes. Shine a flashlight down.
The other one is at the back right of the oven...pull out the bottom drawer and look up at the back.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoutr2 View Post
- Did you dump all water from tanks? - Yes.
- Did you purge water from the city water hose connection line? Yes
- Did you blow out the tank rinser lines? NO. I thought about this after the fact also...since I've never seen mention of either blowing or putting anti-freeze in this (either online or in the manual), I didn't think too much of it...do you do this?
- Did you step on the toilet flush valve to purge that water line? - Oh yes. Many, many times.
- Did you fill P-traps with anti-freeze? Yes
- Did you bypass the HW heater before blowing out the lines? No. I directly drained the hot water heater though. What is the purpose of bypassing it when blowing it out? Again the manual for this model is TERRIBLE - doesn't even tell you to drain the hot water heater!

Also - If you use air method, I recommend keeping all faucet valves open, just in case there is expansion from freezing water that may remain (I open them using the pink stuff, too). And if you are only using air, leave the low point drain valves open, as well. -- I did not do this, but I'll do that this week for sure.

And I leave the HW heater drain plug out. -- thought about that also. I may do this also.
Thanks for your feedback!
See comments above.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
Did you open the fridge drain valve on the underside of the rig?
The valve under the island is tucked down behind the wood paneling that cover the water pipes. Shine a flashlight down.
The other one is at the back right of the oven...pull out the bottom drawer and look up at the back.
I saw your post in another thread on this - I did not see either of those, however I will look closer at the island one.

Do you have a residential refer or RV type? I have an EXTERNAL valve under the underbelly that appears to drain the fridge, however again - the manual SUCKS and it's not labeled externally either.

What would the purpose of these valves as far as winterizing goes?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:10 PM   #6
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Have the residential fridge.. I think the valve under the sink is for keeping antifreeze out of the fridge line.
When you open the valve under the trailer it would drain the water in that line and should drain the water in the fridge too.. But as I said in that other thread, I don't know how the fridge filter works. After I drained the lines (and held the water dispenser open to introduce air to drain the fridge line) I took out the filter and there was still water in it.
If the filter is taken out, does that let air in?? I don't know.
If you blew out your lines did air eventually come out the water dispenser? (Of course the valve underneath the rig would have to be closed to do that).
If air came out I would have to say the fridge is clear and just take out the filter and leave the valve on the underside open to let any left over water to drain.

And to be clear, we are talking about the valve under the kitchen slide. Not the water tank valve that drains the water tank.
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:28 PM   #7
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Hi classic,
I have a pinnacle 38 FLSA and I have two shutoffs for the refer, one is located in the island and one under the self below the oven. The instructions below were sent to me by Jayco for winterizing the refer.

1/ Turn off the water supply to the refrigerator at least 24 hours before winterizing the unit.
2/ Remove all food and beverages from the refrigerator.
3/ Engage the ice maker to purge all of the cubes. When the last load of ice made from the water stored in the unit drops, turn off the ice maker. Lift the handle or flip the switch to “OFF” inside the freezer.
4/ Turn all temperature setting controls to “OFF.”
5/ Disconnect the refrigerator from the water supply line with and adjustable wrench. Expel the excess water through the water spout if you have an ice maker. Locate and remove the water filter (if applicable, not all refrigerators have internal water filters.)
6/ Clean and dry the unit thoroughly. Place and open box of baking soda on one of the refrigerator shelves.
7/ Open the doors of the refrigerator and prop them open with blocks of wood. Unplug the unit to complete the process.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-23-2015, 02:51 PM   #8
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Thanks Ron.
Does the 2015 have the drain on valve on the underside of the trailer?
Maybe this valve is used now instead of unhooking the waterline to the fridge.
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Old 11-23-2015, 03:09 PM   #9
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Hi Klassic,

I posted a message earlier but it doesn't seem to show up. No there is no rear or under access to the water line for the refer. I had to remove the lower drawer to the left side if the refer to disconnect the line from the valve. I don't know your layout but if you have cupboards or drawers either side if the refer you should begin there...the connection will be right on the floor. Funny, Smithville is where I bought my Pinnacle (Sicard).
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Old 11-23-2015, 03:17 PM   #10
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Sicards is literally 2 mins from me.. I don't have to travel far if I need to go back to the dealer. And I got an incredible deal that I couldn't refuse.

Then it seems the added underside drain for 2016 is there to drain the fridge line without manually disconnecting the line.
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