2018.5 Seneca S2RV 37HJ W/Norcold 1210 (3 way) Refrigerator

[Martigg]

Like to know how many of had to have their refrigerator’s “converted” to get them to function properly. (Had J.C. Refrigeration, Shipshewana, IN. convert mine (during the warranty period) w/NO assistance from Jayco.)

[JimL]

2018 M2 37HJ - going strong, no issues.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Martigg

Like to know how many of had to have their refrigerator’s “converted” to get them to function properly. (Had J.C. Refrigeration, Shipshewana, IN. convert mine (during the warranty period) w/NO assistance from Jayco.)

I had my 2014 TS converted this past summer. Works absolutely great. I had it working in 95 degree weather in full sun and it never wavered. My original Norcold cooling unit performed less well each season. Once setting 3 - 4 kept things cool in summer, at the end it was 8 to 9 with temps rising until sun went down. I had even added the ARP system with fans top and bottom and an in-box fin fan.

I went with the 12-volt compressor. I have an 1,800 watt inverter but didn't want an inverter failure to cause an issue. I have 600 watts of solar up top and believe that will keep things running in most dry camping situations.

[Rustynuts]

We had nothing but problems with the 1210 in our 2018.5 RB since new. The main issue was Jayco installed the unit totally wrong. In 2018 the fridge was in the slide but in 2018.5 the slide was shortened and the fridge removed from the slide but the engineers didn’t move the vent covers over in the wall panel. This offset the fridge so much the]at you could not even service the burner without removing the fridge. This cause terrible airflow and overheat issues but Norcold and Jayco all said it was fine but we could never get it below 48 degrees while traveling down the road. I tried every trick in the book and nothing would help so I finally made the conversion on mine with the JC Refrigeration HVAC compressor conversion so it’s the same as a residential……which conversion did you do Martigg? I opted for the 120 volt compressor and run off the inverter. Much happier now with a pretty constant 35 in the fridge and -2 in the freezer every when it’s over 100 degrees outside.

[allanlr]

After trying various fans, inside and out of our 1210 unit trying to get it to cool properly for the first year we owned our 2018 HJ, I did the JC 120 compressor conversion in Sept. Now there are no issues. Have the same thermostats to monitor temps as Robby and don't think I will have to think about the fridge again for a long time.

[Martigg]

Rustynut’s explained below why your’s work’s & why his not mine didn’t.

[Martigg]

Of J.C. Refrigeration’s option’s I choose as you did the 110V Residencial conversion. We seldom (maybe never have) “dry camped”.

[Martigg]

From the responses I only see 4 units that have been converted to make them work. As Rustynut’s stated & I’m in full agreement it’s a JAYCO design issue of the cavity & not Norcold.

Guess I just see where I go from here!

[allanlr]

I am not sure about design issue with our HJ or not. The 1210 is not in a slide on the HJ and I put the 4 fans at the top of the outside vent to pull air out of the space at the back of the unit. I also added a fan at the bottom to pull air in to try and keep it cool. I added cooling fans inside the unit and again no help. We do live in south Texas and that may be a factor but I was tired of guessing if it was going to get cold enough and if it would stay cold enough during a trip. It didn't matter if it was on propane or electric.

I chose the 120 unit after calling JC Refrigeration talking to them about how we use the rig. We only boondock for 5-7 days on our property in CO. The rest of the time we are using 50 amp service.

[Martigg]

If I may be so bold. If you had J.C. Refrigeration convert your’s (like our’s) to a 120V unit DURING the first year of the warranty period to make it work who paid for the conversion? Jayco or you?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Martigg

From the responses I only see 4 units that have been converted to make them work. As Rustynut’s stated & I’m in full agreement it’s a JAYCO design issue of the cavity & not Norcold.

Guess I just see where I go from here!

My unit was purchased new and is a 2014 (completed late-2013, pre-Thor) and it worked okay for a number of years. Even when traveling in the southwest with temps over 100. So I believe my original installation was done correctly, even had the recommended top baffle. But it started working less well about 3 years ago, progressively getting worse each season.

I was told that my time frame unit might have been put together with steel tubing that was prone to develop scale on the inside of the piping. As the scale progressively builds up the heat transfer is compromised. Only way to "fix" is to replace the cooling unit. No warranty on a unit that old. I considered going with JC Refrigeration's better absorption unit, but I liked the idea of a compressor unit. And I'm very happy I did.

[allanlr]

Sorry for the confusion. We have a 2018 and bought it used last September. That is where the reference to " the first year" came from. I did the JC conversion myself.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by allanlr

Sorry for the confusion. We have a 2018 and bought it used last September. That is where the reference to " the first year" came from. I did the JC conversion myself.

Would you share your experience of doing this yourself. Any big issues? Would you do it yourself again?


Thanks

[allanlr]

The conversion was easy, I did it across three days taking my time.
I took all the doors off before I had someone help me lift it out and put it face down on some sawhorses. You will need to lay on your back underneath the fridge to remove and replace bolts during the process.

I removed the old cooling unit and took the time to clean the back of it and bought an extra roll of A/C tape to seal up any areas that had come loose.

I installed the JC cooling unit and sealed it with the foam and left it overnight.
The next day I trimmed off the excess foam and sealed the rest of the unit with the supplied tape and the extra tape I had bought. Wired the new unit and then stood it up and let it sit for the rest of the day.

Had help lifting the fridge back in its cubby, plugged off the propane line, put the doors back on and fired it off. The next morning the freezer was at 0 and the fridge was at 32. That was with it empty. Putting food in brought the fridge temp up and has been great ever since.

I have attached some pics, there are some youtube videos other have done for their conversion. During the wiring I would refer to those to make sure I was correct.

If you do other repairs on your rig you can do this one too.

[Rustynuts]

When I did mine I also took the time to place aluminum sheet over the plywood base and seal to prevent rot. Then I insulated the cavity with Safe-N-Sound Rockwool insulation, covered with 1” foam board and foil taped all the seams.

[Martigg]

I input this “thread” for a specific reason. That was to find out how many conversions had been completed & especially during the warranty period. From the input received it appears only 1. Mine. It’s a tough pill to swallow ($1700.00) to get the refrigerator right when it’s a know Jayco problem. Guess I decide where I go from here.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Martigg

From the responses I only see 4 units that have been converted to make them work. As Rustynut’s stated & I’m in full agreement it’s a JAYCO design issue of the cavity & not Norcold.

Guess I just see where I go from here!

I think it is less of a design issue - but more of a poor install issue. Jayco did not follow the manufacturers installation guide in the installation of ours, and ours has the top vent in the roof. I feel sorry for those with the Norcold that is vented out the side on the top vent as that is so out of spec.

After fixing the clearances on a roof vented unit, they work very well. Ours has been running 24x7 for over 18 months now - with one day of defrost of the freezer on the ice-maker side.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Martigg

I input this “thread” for a specific reason. That was to find out how many conversions had been completed & especially during the warranty period. From the input received it appears only 1. Mine. It’s a tough pill to swallow ($1700.00) to get the refrigerator right when it’s a know Jayco problem. Guess I decide where I go from here.

We all are faced with diffferent challenges... Our Norcold works now, so why would we spend the $$$ on the JM conversion?

But I have studied the cooling unit, talked to their team on the design and capacity... and like it very much. If our cooling unit fails now that we are long out of warranty, the JM 12v conversion will be a easy decision.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

I think it is less of a design issue - but more of a poor install issue. Jayco did not follow the manufacturers installation guide in the installation of ours, and ours has the top vent in the roof. I feel sorry for those with the Norcold that is vented out the side on the top vent as that is so out of spec.

After fixing the clearances on a roof vented unit, they work very well. Ours has been running 24x7 for over 18 months now - with one day of defrost of the freezer on the ice-maker side.

When I went to JC Refrigeration to have my cooling unit replaced they glanced at my unit outside and saw that it was vented out the sidewall at the top. They didn't look all that closely until they got it inside to start the work. They were very surprised to see that my refrigerator was NOT in the slideout, it is just behind the slide. They said that even with fans, side venting units cannot dissipate heat as well as a top vented unit.

[Gunfighter]

On a long trip this past September we made a point of stopping in Shipshiwana at JC for the conversion of our 2018.5 37 K. We went with the 12V conversion basically for the same reasons Robbbyr did. Runs beautifully set on 3 fridge is 33 and freezer around 4. As many have discussed here, tried all the issues, added fans on top and bottom to draw the heat through. Internal fans to keep the fins frost free. Mine was sloppily installed top baffle missing and side of the enclosure was open. I filled it with insulation. Our unit would keep things cold sitting still but once on the road the temperature would climb to 50. I don’t know if it was the inability of the air to be drawn in or a cavitation while driving or what. Got sick of it and did the JC conversion. Not surprised to see most manufactures are going to all electric.