Blew speakers in Seneca cab

[WaltW]

To watch DVD’s on the center (big) TV I need to turn the Jensen JRV215N volume up very loud and the sound is still barely audible in the main area…it’s plenty loud in the cab area. After watching the movie I switched to radio, the cab speaker volume went very loud, and the right front speaker in the cab blew. It now has a buzz in it.

The Seneca has 4 house speakers in addition to the 2 cab speakers. I couldn’t figure out how to get at the cab speakers after removing top dash panel screws and right face panel screws. I can get some panel separation but far from being able to access the speakers. I don’t want to break anything by forcing it too much. Anyone know how to get at the cab speakers? Do I have to remove all of the dash panels? And, no there is no speaker cover to access them…it’s molded in.

The radio has 4 50W channels. I figure that 2 channels are for the cab speakers and the Jayco wiring diagram shows 4 house speakers on the other 2 channels. The house speakers are 50 watts RMS, 100 W peak. With 2 speakers on one channel I’m guessing it’s really driving 100 watts which would explain why the cab speakers are so loud and the cab speakers much quieter.

If I just replace the cab speaker I’m guessing I will still have the same problem. Any audio experts out there to confirm my suspicions? Any suggestions for a fix?

Thanks

[Robbbyr]

I will be watching closely to see if anyone offers any advice. While not blown (yet) I want to change out my dash speakers to provide better sound, may even add remote tweeters to truly bring out the high tones.

I have had my dash apart numerous times to add the Sirius tuner, connect the Alpine subwoofer, add remote locks for the cab, install a side camera disable switch, add foglight switch, and rearrange the switches to move OD cancel switch where it is more easily reached when driving. But all those times apart I have to admit I never paid attention to what it would take to get the speakers out. Shame on me!

[LSA376]

Rob / Walt you're correct. To access the front speakers you need to remove all the dash panels. When I installed the driving light switch in the dash I had everything removed including the instrument cluster at which point I noticed both front speakers. Once you remove the panels the speakers are easily seen. The passenger side pulls off pretty easy, driver side and center have a ton of Torx screws. Let me know what you replace them with.

[herewego]

Buy some replacement infinity speakers !

we put them in all our vehicles ,not cheap but if you do not want to blow your speakers

[Mnwelsh]

Please, next time someone takes their dash apart take some photos and post it, like step one, step two etc. I would like to add and additional ciregette lighter outlet. There is one now which I use for my brake controller monitor, I need another for my Garmin. I am currently using a double plug in outlet but it's a little heavy for two items which I plug in. I want to add an additional outlet.

[WaltW]

I had additional 12v outlets added in the dash when I purchased so I can't tell you how to do it. I purchased them from West Marine - 1 is cigar lighter the other is 2 UCB ports. They're the ones with diagonal stripes to the right.

[Mnwelsh]

Did you have to disassemble a lot of the dash? Like the part that goes around the instrument panel? How did you know where to hook them up? Where there only screws to take out in the dash disassembly or did you have to mess with spring loaded clips that are easy to bend and bust?

[Mnwelsh]

Did you have to disassemble a lot of the dash? Like the part that goes around the instrument panel? How did you know where to hook them up? Where there only screws to take out in the dash disassembly or did you have to mess with spring loaded clips that are easy to bend and bust?

[Mnwelsh]

Walt, is this the outlet you installed ?

[Mr.Oz]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I will be watching closely to see if anyone offers any advice. While not blown (yet) I want to change out my dash speakers to provide better sound, may even add remote tweeters to truly bring out the high tones.

I have had my dash apart numerous times to add the Sirius tuner, connect the Alpine subwoofer, add remote locks for the cab, install a side camera disable switch, add foglight switch, and rearrange the switches to move OD cancel switch where it is more easily reached when driving. But all those times apart I have to admit I never paid attention to what it would take to get the speakers out. Shame on me!

What did you do for the remote door locks?

[LSA376]

I'll scan the pages for the dash removal from my M2 106 service manual and see if I can post tonight.

[WaltW]

LSA376, thanks. Look forward to your post.

[WaltW]

Mnwelsh, that looks just like the one I had installed. I assume the how to take apart question was not directed at me as the dealer did it.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Mr.Oz

What did you do for the remote door locks?

I installed an AutoLoc KL550 5-channel remote locking system. I sourced it from Summit Racing, their main store is 15 minutes from me here in NE Ohio. Cost when I did it was about $80.00, it is up a little now on Summit's website here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-kl550
Here is a direct link to the AutoLoc too: 5 Function Keyless Entry with Birt « autoloc.com

I have also attached a .pdf of the KL550 instructions.

On our Freightliners we have to use the "Reverse Polarity Locking" part of the instructions. You must make several connections on the lock wires, I did it right behind the dash switch. I cut the two appropriate lock wires and installed a pair of male/female bullet connectors. All connections actually soldered (not just crimped) and covered with heat shrink to ensure no problems down the (bumpy) road. I am very particular that way! Using the bullet connectors will allow me (should I ever want or need) to remove the lock system and plug the two original Freightliners wire back together, restoring things to bone-stock conditions. The connections (male/female) are oriented such that I cannot hook them up incorrectly.

You also have to supply +12-volt continuous power and a ground to the lock module, I tapped into the dash power point to connect those wires. I also ran the appropriate wire from the lock module to the headlight switch. The lock module creates a momentary "ground" in that lighting wire when the remotes are operated in the "lock" or "unlock" modes. This is to flash the running lights so you get an external visual indication of locking/unlocking. As it happens, our Freightliner light switch actually "grounds" the correct wire or wires to cause the Body Control Module (BCM) to turn the lights on. You do not need the lighting relay pictured in the KL550 instructions since we have a "grounding" trigger for our lights. So it works perfectly with the KL550, it pulses the ground to cause the marker lights to all flash. As I remember it was a brown wire at the headlight switch, but probing the wires and creating a ground will quickly lead you to the correct wire. One thing about the Freightliner BCM. After a while it seems to "go to sleep". While the locks themselves lock and unlock with every push, sometimes the lights don't flash with the first push. But when you hit it again they then flash appropriately after that wake-up. And the dash lock switch continues to function just as before for locking or unlocking from inside the cab.

I did not hook up the ignition interlock function, I figure if someone wanted to steal my MH that would not slow anyone down too much. And I did not want any failure there to prevent the unit from starting. If the locks fail I still always have the key!

After everything was connected to/from the module, which is very compact, was wire-tied to other wiring behind the dash just behind the lock switch itself after testing the installation. Then button the dash back up.

All-in-all it was an easy install, much more so than my last Ford E-450 where I had to contort myself to get into the kick panel to find the correct wires. And it is so convenient now at fuel stops and such to just to bail out and lock the doors; then unlock them as I approach.

[LSA376]

Here are the dash pictures from the service manual, scanner didn't work took pictures with phone...

[Mnwelsh]

Thanks LSA376. I appreciate the info. I have not decided yet if I want to tackle it myself or take it to Freightliner. Your diagrams will help me make that decision..

[Mnwelsh]

Does you LSA376 stand for Light Sport Aircraft? Just wondering, I used to be stationed at Beale AFB near Placerville..

[LSA376]

No, the LSA is the designation of the factory supercharged engine in the ZL1 Camaro, 376 is the displacement. Good guess on the LSA though. How long ago were you at Beale? Back to the dash, it's really easy to disassemble, the only pita is driving the pin from the parking brake push button. A small punch makes easy work of the pin with a few light taps. You may be shocked at the mess of the radio and camera wiring behind the dash... Oh the Amish. I re-routed it all and cleaned it up while I was in there.

[tjbroussard]

Seems like my DVD audio comes out in main coach four overhead speakers as well. I'll have to double check tonight.

Great info in this post.

Thanks!

[herewego]

Strange,went from question about speakers to 12 V outlets and cig lighters ,,,