Girard Tankless Water Flow Issues

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Crossingover

Do you think it is possible to backflush through the HWH drain connection to push some of the collected sediment etc back out through the HWH cold water inlet and eventually out of the main water inlet on the valve panel?

Unfortunately, the drain is on the cold water side, ahead of the screen. The screen is actually part of the brass male threaded piece in my photos, which is why I didn't catch that it was even there during my initial inspection. I just thought it was the other side of the elbow in the HWH compartment.

-You would have to figure out a way to run the hot water backwards and open up the drain or, as you said, let it come out of the city water connection or somewhere along those lines, maybe even the low point drain on the pump intake side.

Having done it 2x, now, and having stainless screws that don't have the heads completely destroyed (thank god for vampliers!!!!) on the girard mounting bracket, it is a 1-2 hour job. I would strongly recommend against trying to remove the sensor from the elbow with it installed in the HWH, it will just tear things up. It's far easier to take the unit out, remove the retaining plate and put the sensor and elbow in a vice to get them apart.

[krbrat]

I installed a canister filter outside then that goes to a On the Go water softener that is then connected to the canister filter that is behind the water inlet on the RV. i.e., city water, canister filter, water softener, canister filter. The water softener keeps everything working better including the ice in the fridge and the build up on my cooking pans has also been fixed. Just an idea to keep it working

[memphis02]

Do you get the sense that with all the filtration stages you have a substantial drop in pressure or flow?

I run a single .5 micron w/ carbon block in our canister, which has a 2gpm flowrate and 3.7 psi drop. Pressure stays good and I'm okay with taking the hit on flow since we don't need much more than that anyway.

I have considered looking into a softener but we live in an area where we have relatively soft water, anyway.

[Crossingover]

Originally Posted by krbrat

The water softener keeps everything working better including the ice in the fridge and the build up on my cooking pans has also been fixed. Just an idea to keep it working

It is generally not advisable to consume softened water including ice as it contains a lot of sodium. I'm not familiar with your softener, but if it is a resin unit, it will be exchanging water hardness minerals such as calcium and magnesium with sodium. If you have a low tolerance for sodium intake, this is something to consider.

[Crossingover]

Originally Posted by memphis02

Do you get the sense that with all the filtration stages you have a substantial drop in pressure or flow?

Yes, which is why we just run a whole house coarse sediment filter and leave the carbon block filtration for drinking water and ice only. We do this with a counter-top Berkey drip unit and it works great. IMHO there is little reason to do carbon block filtration for non-consumptive water uses.

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Crossingover

Yes, which is why we just run a whole house coarse sediment filter and leave the carbon block filtration for drinking water and ice only. We do this with a counter-top Berkey drip unit and it works great. IMHO there is little reason to do carbon block filtration for non-consumptive water uses.

The carbon block is just a bonus, the 99+% rating on protozoan cysts and other nasties, are what I'm more concerned with.

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Crossingover

Do you think it is possible to backflush through the HWH drain connection to push some of the collected sediment etc back out through the HWH cold water inlet and eventually out of the main water inlet on the valve panel?

I've had a thought about this. If you are able to hook up a connection to the emergency relief valve (I think it's 1/2" npt) and open the HWH drain in the Gen Bay, you could (sort-of) backflush it. It wouldn't be a full-scale backflush as there's no way to isolate the lines, but this might work. You would be pushing through the HWH and back toward the supply and draining just after the HWH.

[Hec]

Where did you order the flow switch from?

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Hec

Where did you order the flow switch from?

At the time, I purchased it from amazon, it's part title is Girard Products 1GWH7100 Flow Switch but it doesn't appear to be available anymore, though. I did find it at the RV Upgrade store, so you might just try doing an internet search for 1GWH7100 and go with whoever you wish.

[Hec]

The model I have is the GSWH-1M. I’m wondering if that part is compatible with it? It’s a tough part to find. Might just change the whole water heater out.

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Hec

The model I have is the GSWH-1M. I’m wondering if that part is compatible with it? It’s a tough part to find. Might just change the whole water heater out.

My water heater is the same model GSWH-1M, however the part I quoted you (1GWH7100 Flow Switch) is the correct flow sensor for it.

[Hec]

Did you have two inlet screens? One on elbow and another on flow switch?

[memphis02]

Originally Posted by Hec

Did you have two inlet screens? One on elbow and another on flow switch?

If you scroll through this thread, on page 1 you'll see some of the photos I posted of the clogged screens.