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Old 04-03-2016, 07:59 AM   #1
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My new addition to the Seneca

Just added a ScanGuage D to the dash of my 14 Seneca. I think its a must have as well as the tire pressure monitor for all diesel motorhomes.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:41 AM   #2
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Nice job, I love mine too! I put mine up high on the left since the Even Brake monitor for my toad is under the radio where you mounted the ScanGauge. I have my TireMinder display low on the left side of windshield. A place for everything, and everything in its place!

I still have not captured the extra readings from the computer and sent them to ScanGauge to see what extra gauges we might get to see. Perhaps in the next few weeks.
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Old 04-03-2016, 10:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Rick-in-Houston View Post
Just added a ScanGuage D to the dash of my 14 Seneca. I think its a must have as well as the tire pressure monitor for all diesel motorhomes.
Your picture of your dash reminded me of another mod I have found helpful. Since I have had the dash apart (many times!) I decided to swap the location of the Overdrive Cancel switch and the Mirror Heat switch. I got tired of leaning over to activate the switch in hilly territory. And I have only had to use the mirror heat a few times. Just a thought for others to consider!
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:54 AM   #4
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That's awesome. I just hooked mine up this weekend, but didn't have a chance to permanently mount it since I ran out of time. I may end up mounting mine here now that I have seen it. My fiance loves messing with this stuff, and mounting it up high like RobbyR makes it tough for her to mess with going down the road. She's a good little navigator.

RobbyR, love the idea of switching the Overdrive Switch, as I am going to use that a lot with my heavy tow. I also need to order a new switch for the passenger window. So I guess I need to take the dash apart.

How do you guys get the parking brake handle off? I've never really looked at it, but I am sure it more than simply screwed on.

Are there any little secrets/tricks to getting the dash off that I should know to save me some major headaches?
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:51 AM   #5
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Here is a link to a post where I talk about removing the roll pin retaining the parking brake knob: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5...e-30699-2.html


As far as the dash removal itself you need a Torx bit to remove the (I think 10) screws holding the plastic dash cover. This piece wraps over the steering column, around the headlight and cruise control switches, and over the shifter handle. You also have to pop the small plastic bezel off from around the radio/nav. Just gentle outward pressure at the corners of the bezel works for me, no tools required. If you have a woodgrain applique on the dash you may find some of the screws are partially covered and have to carefully cut them out to gain access to the screw, I believe some owners have reported theirs were covered somewhat by the applique. Mine is just the factory Freightliner gray; no woodgrain so it is easy!

The radio itself (if you need/want to take it out) is held in by 2 screws concealed by the plastic dash cover. Once the dash cover is off it is very obvious how the radio comes out. I have had the radio in and out several times to add my Sirius tuner and to install a compact subwoofer located under the passenger seat.

Once the plastic outer cover is removed then there will 3 more of the Torx screws visible holding the center aluminum piece that contains the switches, power plug, etc. Those 3 screws also obviously have to come out. Now is also when you need to remove the parking brake knob as described in the post linked above. Once the parking brake knob is off sometimes you can only pull that center aluminum section out a small distance without disconnecting some of the wiring connections, just be sure you keep track of where things belong for reassembly. That aluminum piece is where I had to add my two extra switch cutouts, one for my foglight switch and a second for my side-view camera defeat switch.

Let me know if I can help with anything, glad to pass on what I have learned!
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:17 AM   #6
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One thing I have experienced with my ScanGauge is the connector falling off of the vehicle's diagnostic port on very rough roads. Several times I have looked at my display and it is dead. Feel around the connection and it has come off. I have gotten good at continuing to drive while reattaching the connector strictly by feel.

I wish it had some type of retainer to hold it onto the connector, since it points straight down and gravity is always working to remove it. Thinking about trying to just wrap it with a a few turns of electrical tape at the connection point to see if that is enough to keep things together on rough roads. Can't be too permanent since Freightliner may need into the port down the road!
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:41 PM   #7
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Great info as usual! I have a Torx socket set, so I will use that to get the dash apart. I am a labeling monster, so the first time I pull it apart, I will label all the switches, wires, and connectors to make re-assembly a little easier.

Thanks for the link to parking brake knob removal. Exactly what I was looking for.

I noticed the connector didn't seem incredibly snug on the port. I was hoping there was some sort of twist lock, but I have already taped mine in with electrical tape. Hopefully that does the trick.

Looks like the weather for racing this weekend isn't so good again, so I should have plenty of time to work on these changes. Want to get the ScanD permanently mounted, move the OD switch, replace passenger window switch and disconnect the relay for the TV in the living room with the ignition. Plenty of work to be done!
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
I have had the radio in and out several times to add my Sirius tuner and to install a compact subwoofer located under the passenger seat.
Hey Rob - did you replace the dash speakers as well, or just add the subwoofer? The speakers up front have left me less than impressed.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:01 PM   #9
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Hey Rob - did you replace the dash speakers as well, or just add the subwoofer? The speakers up front have left me less than impressed.
This Spring the dash speakers are on the mods list!

By the way the sub I installed is an Alpine PWE-S8, mounted under the passenger seat. Fits great.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:10 PM   #10
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that concerns we as well. It came off pretty easily when I was installing the the the Scan guageD. I will look for a way to secure it. It may end being taped in placed.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:11 PM   #11
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don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:35 AM   #12
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don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
I was thinking the same thing! The man keeps spending my money with his ideas!
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:08 AM   #13
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don"t listen to Robbbyr he will have you broke when all said and done.
This stuff we have talked about is only the tip of the iceberg!

Added TPMS, remotes to cab door power locks, SiriusXM radio add-in, side camera on/off switch, ScanGaugeD, Freightliner fog lights, Thetford Aria Deluxe II electric flush toilet, Atwood XT 10-gallon conventional water heater, Remco 5-chamber water pump (very quiet and less pulsations), Carefree Direct Response electronics for awning (puts itself away when wind picks up), LED awning light dimmer, 40" TV in front bunk and 39" TV on full-motion mount outside, 27" TV on full motion mount (so we can actually see it sitting up in bed) and separate sound bar in rear bedroom, RVSuperbag bedding system for rear bed, 12-volt Blu-Ray player for external TV (still have to install), full Z-Tech rustproofing, converted (4) house batteries to 6-volt Trojan T-105 with single-point watering system, and probably more I haven't mentioned. I also removed all of the exterior compartment doors so I could have the (already) horribly rusted hinges cadmium plated.

Some mods I am planning for this season are to "split" the pull-out pantry into two slide out sections, keeping the original outside face and converting it into a hinged door. Dear Wife hates the one huge pull-out drawer. I also am designing and will build a front console to fit between and underneath the Freightliner cup holders in the cab. I envision a couple additional cup holders, some extra power points, and a tip-out drawer down below to keep the registration, insurance card, and other small items handy. We also are going to install a washer/dryer combo (that is all that will fit in a TS) since the DW is also tired of sitting for hours in campground laundromats.

We plan to keep this coach a while, and some of my mods will hopefully protect it (TPMS, awning electronics, hinge plating, rustproofing); some to correct what I believe were Jayco "oversights" in a coach such as we have like the water heater, cheap O.E. water pump and toilet. I freely admit many are convenience items that make driving it long distances and living in it more comfortable. One thing that makes my projects more affordable is that I have done most all of the labor myself. Obviously the rustproofing and hinge plating I paid for, but even the water heater install I did myself, but Jayco did paint the new outside cover for the Atwood when it was at the factory service center getting some other repairs.

I'm not trying to be boastful, I hope that if other owners are seeking to modify their coaches my experiences might be of value. I am happy to try to explain how I did what I did. And the wife is onboard for most of these mods since we had some of these conveniences in our prior Class C units. She especially hated the original tankless water heater since it was never consistent despite several (attempted) repairs. She has even contributed significantly to the work, even helping out in the driveway when I needed extra hands to do something. And she took our old rear bedspread (since we have the Superbag) and converted it into our cab "drape" to separate the cab from the coach when setup somewhere. (see pic below of her handiwork).
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
One thing I have experienced with my ScanGauge is the connector falling off of the vehicle's diagnostic port on very rough roads. Several times I have looked at my display and it is dead. Feel around the connection and it has come off. I have gotten good at continuing to drive while reattaching the connector strictly by feel.

I wish it had some type of retainer to hold it onto the connector, since it points straight down and gravity is always working to remove it. Thinking about trying to just wrap it with a a few turns of electrical tape at the connection point to see if that is enough to keep things together on rough roads. Can't be too permanent since Freightliner may need into the port down the road!
Regarding the ScanGauge: Drill a small hole in the side of the connector so a sheetmetal screw can thread through the connector and slightly bite into the side of the diagnostic port. The connector will no longer fall out, this would happen to me as well. Quick fix.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:13 AM   #15
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Regarding the ScanGauge: Drill a small hole in the side of the connector so a sheetmetal screw can thread through the connector and slightly bite into the side of the diagnostic port. The connector will no longer fall out, this would happen to me as well. Quick fix.
That is why this forum is so helpful. Good idea, thanks!
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
This stuff we have talked about is only the tip of the iceberg!

Added TPMS, remotes to cab door power locks, SiriusXM radio add-in, side camera on/off switch, ScanGaugeD, Freightliner fog lights, Thetford Aria Deluxe II electric flush toilet, Atwood XT 10-gallon conventional water heater, Remco 5-chamber water pump (very quiet and less pulsations), Carefree Direct Response electronics for awning (puts itself away when wind picks up), LED awning light dimmer, 40" TV in front bunk and 39" TV on full-motion mount outside, 27" TV on full motion mount (so we can actually see it sitting up in bed) and separate sound bar in rear bedroom, RVSuperbag bedding system for rear bed, 12-volt Blu-Ray player for external TV (still have to install), full Z-Tech rustproofing, converted (4) house batteries to 6-volt Trojan T-105 with single-point watering system, and probably more I haven't mentioned. I also removed all of the exterior compartment doors so I could have the (already) horribly rusted hinges cadmium plated.

Some mods I am planning for this season are to "split" the pull-out pantry into two slide out sections, keeping the original outside face and converting it into a hinged door. Dear Wife hates the one huge pull-out drawer. I also am designing and will build a front console to fit between and underneath the Freightliner cup holders in the cab. I envision a couple additional cup holders, some extra power points, and a tip-out drawer down below to keep the registration, insurance card, and other small items handy. We also are going to install a washer/dryer combo (that is all that will fit in a TS) since the DW is also tired of sitting for hours in campground laundromats.

We plan to keep this coach a while, and some of my mods will hopefully protect it (TPMS, awning electronics, hinge plating, rustproofing); some to correct what I believe were Jayco "oversights" in a coach such as we have like the water heater, cheap O.E. water pump and toilet. I freely admit many are convenience items that make driving it long distances and living in it more comfortable. One thing that makes my projects more affordable is that I have done most all of the labor myself. Obviously the rustproofing and hinge plating I paid for, but even the water heater install I did myself, but Jayco did paint the new outside cover for the Atwood when it was at the factory service center getting some other repairs.

I'm not trying to be boastful, I hope that if other owners are seeking to modify their coaches my experiences might be of value. I am happy to try to explain how I did what I did. And the wife is onboard for most of these mods since we had some of these conveniences in our prior Class C units. She especially hated the original tankless water heater since it was never consistent despite several (attempted) repairs. She has even contributed significantly to the work, even helping out in the driveway when I needed extra hands to do something. And she took our old rear bedspread (since we have the Superbag) and converted it into our cab "drape" to separate the cab from the coach when setup somewhere. (see pic below of her handiwork).
Sweet list!
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:43 AM   #17
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I certainly appreciate all the help, insight, guidance, and ideas this forum tosses around. I too plan on keeping my Seneca for many years, so I am trying to make a concerted effort to protect our investment early, before it's too late.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
full Z-Tech rustproofing
Can you elaborate on this? Where did you have it done? What exactly is it? Rough cost?

Good to know about the latches rusting. I have access to my uncle's powder coating oven, so I will probably pull mine off and powder coat all of them. That will probably have to wait until next winter, when I have some more time. Summer time is coming and we actually want to use and enjoy this thing, and not spend every minute upgrading/fixing stuff! But I must say I have been enjoying some of the mod work.

Have a decent little list planned for this weekend. Hope to be installing DirecTV receiver. Permanently installing the ScanD in the dash, swapping the Overdrive Switch with the Mirror Heat, and replacing the faulty passenger window switch. Also, want to disable the relay that turns off the tv and satellite receiver with the ignition on. Finally, hope to get my Inverter out of Power Saver Mode, and maybe my Microwave will finally stop resetting and beeping at me! Oh yeah, and the screw trick on the ScanD connector.. brilliant! Gonna do that too!
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Old 04-05-2016, 12:32 PM   #18
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Z-Tech is an off-shoot of Ziebart here in Northeast Ohio. I retired from a municipal fire department and we used Z-Tech on the fire trucks and ambulances to help keep them from rusting out here in our area where sometimes there is more salt on the road than asphalt!

I saw rust appearing on some of the Jayco-added structure that supported the floor and compartments. The steel structure that supports the floor and what you see when you open a compartment door is obviously vulnerable to the elements. So are the compartment door hinges, especially the lower hinges. Z-Tech cleaned off all existing corrosion and then coated it with POR-15. Then everything was coated with Z-Tech's paraffin-based rustproofing. When I delivered it to Z-Tech I already had removed all compartment doors so they could get to everything. They also did the whole chassis front to rear. It took them 5 days to finish my unit, but I am very pleased with the job I they did. The cost (gulp) was $3,000. But I know how much work they put into it.

Regarding the compartment door hinges - The hardest part was that at least half of the Jayco-installed mild steel screws snapped off in the aluminum of the doors. Took hours to drill all of them out. I replaced all of the screws in the doors with stainless self-tapping TEK screws. Where the hinges bolted to the body structure originally they were also self-tapping screws. But I drilled out all of those holes (before it went to Z-Tech) and bolted the hinges with stainless bolts with stainless washers and locknuts. I was surprised by how much all the hardware had corroded just since I have owned it. So my modest investment in stainless hardware hopefully will pay off. Below are examples of the screws/bolts I used.

Another thing regarding the hinges. Mine had a bolt and thin jam nut that functions as the open "stop" for the hinge. Now the bolts were actually stainless originally, but the nuts were plain steel and rusting badly! So I also purchased thin jam nuts to replace the mild steel ones. Picture of them below too. All hardware came from Albany County Fasteners on eBay.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:57 PM   #19
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Gentlemen...thinking very hard about adding one of these as standard gauges in the Freightliner M2 are very limited. Just wondering where the diagnostic connector is located on the 2014 Seneca? Would it be in the engine compartment or behind the dash and hard to get to? Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:00 PM   #20
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Right under the dash behind the ignition switch. Very easy to access.
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