New Owner

[hammer55]

I have the transmission with the handle on the dash, with auto park brake, what is the switch under the handle, and what is the regen button on the dash for, looke in the book does not show what they are

[DonaandDon]

I can't speak about the switch under the handle. Can you post a picture?

The regen, normally is for regeneration. A feature most common with diesels. It is to clean the exhaust and burn clean again.

Do you use DEF, (Diesel Exhaust Fluid)?

[Robbbyr]

The switch below the shifter is the exhaust brake. It helps you to slow down when you let up on the accelerator. The switch allows you to turn it off when you want or need to have it off. Using the exhaust brake helps extend the life of the foundation brakes, but it only works down to about 15 miles an hour. On much of my driving I am able to stay off the regular brakes if you watch and plan ahead. Below 15 mph it cuts off and regular brakes needed to come to a complete stop.

The Regen (regeneration) switch is used to perform a "Parked" regeneration of the diesel particulate filter (DPF), part of the chassis emissions control system. In our typical RV service a parked regeneration is generally not needed, our rigs will "passively" regenerate on their own at highway speeds. Units in daily stop-and-go service that seldom get up to highway speeds will periodically have to do a parked regeneration. And to use the switch and do a parked regeneration the computer has to recognize it needs one which will turn on a light in the instrument panel. Unless the system thinks a regeneration is needed the switch won't (shouldn't) do anything.

I have a Cummins document on my laptop I can attach later better explaining our emissions system and the indicators in the dash relating to it. It should be helpful to those new to their rigs.

[Robbbyr]

Here are some documents that should help explain the various dash indications and the regeneration process.

[RVermont]

As was stated a manual regen is normally not needed for the way we typically use these units. Idling your engine for long periods of time can require a regen but I have not experienced it in over 25000 miles. I have seen the regen light come on while waiting in traffic but it never got to the point of actually having to push the button.

If you ever do have to run a parked regeneration make sure the surface you are parked on can take extremely hot exhaust gases. The gases can melt asphalt.

[hammer55]

thanks very much, the book I have has every trans configuration bit that one, is this config with the the 2018 M2 or S2RV chassis, I am still looking at what chassis this one is, it does have a small pass through underneath, but not much of a pass through if you ask me

[Robbbyr]

The M2 chassis has the Allison 2500MH transmission which has the shift lever. The S2RV has an Allison 3000MH transmission which has a pushbutton shift pad.

I think the pass-through compartments did appear late in the M2 Senecas. I did my own in my 2014.

[hammer55]

the place that sold me this rig advertised as a S2RV, and of coarse I not knowing the difference in that there were two versions of the Seneca made in 2018, I guess I just figured they were advertising what they should have know to be true, a true S2RV with a 360hp with a 3000 trans, this is what the dealers paper work says, I gues I will have a talk with the owner or head man at the dealership,
I guess it is my fault for not checking and knowing the difference

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

The M2 chassis has the Allison 2500MH transmission which has the shift lever. The S2RV has an Allison 3000MH transmission which has a pushbutton shift pad.

I think the pass-through compartments did appear late in the M2 Senecas. I did my own in my 2014.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by hammer55

the place that sold me this rig advertised as a S2RV, and of coarse I not knowing the difference in that there were two versions of the Seneca made in 2018, I guess I just figured they were advertising what they should have know to be true, a true S2RV with a 360hp with a 3000 trans, this is what the dealers paper work says, I gues I will have a talk with the owner or head man at the dealership,
I guess it is my fault for not checking and knowing the difference

Does it have the saddle fuel tanks with a fuel fill on each tank at the back of the cab steps? That is another M2 clue, the S2RV chassis have a single fuel tank between the rear frame rails with the fuel fill back on the side of the body.

[hammer55]

front saddle

[Robbbyr]

Definitely a M2.

Several of us here have had Cummins "uprate" our power to the same ratings the S2RV chassis have, 360 horsepower and 800 lb/ft of torque. For engines still in warranty Cummins also charges an additional fee to maintain the engine warranty at the new power level.

Additionally several of us have had Allison reprogram our transmissions to have a "performance" shift schedule as primary instead of the economy schedule it had from the factory.

Short of giving you a new unit that matches what they advertised to you, perhaps you can persuade them to cover the costs to reprogram the engine and transmission. While my 2014 didn't drive "bad" before, I like it even better after those upgrades!

[RVermont]

Robbbyr

Can you notice the extra 20 hp like you can notice the shift reprogram? Is it worth the money for both the program and the warranty cost?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by RVermont

Robbbyr

Can you notice the extra 20 hp like you can notice the shift reprogram? Is it worth the money for both the program and the warranty cost?

Yes I noticed! While the HP is only 20 more, the 100 additional lb/ft of torque is what "gets things moving". So it pulls noticeably harder through the gears. Especially better with the revised shift schedule since I did get the uprate prior to the trans reprogram.

Now as far as the cost/worth, harder to say. I was lucky I had a "relationship" with the Cummins facility because of my (former) job with the fire department. So they waived the warranty surcharge since I have less than a year to go anyway. But if you ask if I would have known about the ability to uprate and the warranty fee early in my ownership, I would have done it!

[RVermont]

Great information. Looks like I will make an appointment. $800 over 3 years is not too bad I spent twice that on the air dryer.

Thanks for the information.

[RVermont]

One last thing do you have a specific code or description that I can provide to the Cummins shop. Half the time I bring up things I find on this site they look at me like I have two heads and I have to make them investigate it. Makes it easier if I can give them the actual code and I can be sure we are talking the same thing.

Thanks again

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by RVermont

One last thing do you have a specific code or description that I can provide to the Cummins shop. Half the time I bring up things I find on this site they look at me like I have two heads and I have to make them investigate it. Makes it easier if I can give them the actual code and I can be sure we are talking the same thing.

Thanks again

I just told them I wanted to uprate my engine to 360 horsepower and 800 torque. They knew exactly what that meant. I think the codes may be different depending on what calibration your ECM has to begin with.

I have attached my Cummins receipt for reference. Feel free to take it to your Cummins facility, it may help.

[hammer55]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I just told them I wanted to uprate my engine to 360 horsepower and 800 torque. They knew exactly what that meant. I think the codes may be different depending on what calibration your ECM has to begin with.

I have attached my Cummins receipt for reference. Feel free to take it to your Cummins facility, it may help.

thanks for all the good info guy's, I guess not doing my homework before, and trusting the dealer to know what he was selling, (big joke) or them just trying to glean more for something that was not worth it, anyway a lot of great info

[trento]

Originally Posted by hammer55

I have the transmission with the handle on the dash, with auto park brake, what is the switch under the handle, and what is the regen button on the dash for, looke in the book does not show what they are

its the jake brake

[hammer55]

got another question for some of you up on 24 volt workings of these coaches, since the power coming in from shore is turned to 12 volts and the coach works off of 12 volts, (except 120 volts plugs ie:micro, exct.) the motors on the bed slide does not want to work on the back side of the scwinteck side, before I go through all the work of pulling the batteries and all, you think the batteries have been allowed to deplete and deplete (Cycle down to Zero) to the point to where they are not up to the task of operating or losing a cell, I have to wait a while for the power to rise so I can get the slide to move out,, any thoughts, since I am disabled and it is hard to get under there to do any work, and it takes me such a long time to do anything anymore like that, just wondering before I start if anyone else as any other thoughts on the subject of the scwinteck crap

[Robbbyr]

Just to clarify, nothing in our coaches is 24-volts. As you noted the air conditioners, the microwave, and the household-style receptacles run off of 120-volts alternating current. But so do the TV's, fireplace heater, washer/dryer (if you have), and the 120 to 12-volt converter. All the other coach systems run on 12-volts direct current.

If the batteries have been depleted to less than 50% capacity repeatedly they possibly have been damaged. A healthy, charged battery bank should easily run your slides in and out several times without having to plug in or run the generator. Even sitting for a while they certainly should not drain down to zero. If yours won't stay up for days, I suspect a problem with one or more of your batteries.

I believe you recently acquired your unit, did it come with any sort of warranty? If it did, you certainly should consider having the dealer test your battery bank and replace the batteries if an issue is found. And even if they tell you just one battery is bad, the best solution would be to replace all four house batteries. For best service and longer life your house batteries should all be of the same chemistry and size. And ideally they should be close in age since older batteries in a bank can tend to draw down a newer battery.