Option for Problematic Schwintek Slide

[Parrott]

One of the biggest failures of the Schwintek slide is the circuit board on top of the motor. I replaced a motor one time. I had the old motor and applied 12 volts directly to the brush tabs and it worked perfectly. I believe when you hit the controller button 6 times and hold on the 7th time it bypasses the circuit board. The wires and soldering are also suspect because of their tiny size. The actual motor and gearing are pretty robust. I soldered wires directly to the brush tabs and put a 3 position switch on the old motor and can use it as an emergency motor if need be.
Note the corrosion on the wires.

[Jopopsy]

I've read the newer Slim-Rack design was supposed to correct some of the Schwintek limitations. I don't know if that ended up being the case; I know Winnebago uses the Slim-Rack in their larger slides on their Class A's now. I have two Slim-Rack systems on my relatively meager slides. So far, so good, but it hasn't been that long yet.

[RVermont]

Originally Posted by Parrott

One of the biggest failures of the Schwintek slide is the circuit board on top of the motor. I replaced a motor one time. I had the old motor and applied 12 volts directly to the brush tabs and it worked perfectly. I believe when you hit the controller button 6 times and hold on the 7th time it bypasses the circuit board. The wires and soldering are also suspect because of their tiny size. The actual motor and gearing are pretty robust. I soldered wires directly to the brush tabs and put a 3 position switch on the old motor and can use it as an emergency motor if need be.
Note the corrosion on the wires.

The red and black are to reverse polarity and spin the motor each way. Are the other four wires for the hall sensors? Again this is an area that could have been improved by spending a few bucks on shielded strain reliefs on this wiring. The wires are prone to rubbing and many complains I have read are from the wires rubbing or getting cut rendering the motors useless unless you can soldier them back on.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by RVermont

The red and black are to reverse polarity and spin the motor each way. Are the other four wires for the hall sensors? Again this is an area that could have been improved by spending a few bucks on shielded strain reliefs on this wiring. The wires are prone to rubbing and many complains I have read are from the wires rubbing or getting cut rendering the motors useless unless you can soldier them back on.

The disk on top spins and counts the revolutions to keep each side in sync. The tops of the motors tend to get wet and the solder joints corrode causing problems with the controls. They could make the circuit board replaceable which would make repairs much cheaper. If the screw holding the motor comes loose, the motor will spin and cut the wires. Really cheap way to hold the motor in place. You can in the vroom slide system, the motor is held by 4 screws.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by RVermont

... I removed the motor from the side that was not operating and was able to push it back in. ...

Did you have to disengage/remove the other motor to push the slide back in?

[RVermont]

Since the unit failed due to the shaft dropping I was able to plug the damaged motor in while it was removed from the slide. By having both plugged in the control board thought the unit was operating correctly. I then had my wife push the button to retract the slide and I kept pulling it in as we went. If you unplug the failed side then the working motor will only turn for a few seconds and stop due to the hall sensor not providing the required information. You have to keep pushing the in button till it stops then push the out button for a second then push the in button again and keep cycling till the unit comes in. It will move a few inches each time.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by RVermont

Since the unit failed due to the shaft dropping I was able to plug the damaged motor in while it was removed from the slide. By having both plugged in the control board thought the unit was operating correctly. I then had my wife push the button to retract the slide and I kept pulling it in as we went. If you unplug the failed side then the working motor will only turn for a few seconds and stop due to the hall sensor not providing the required information. You have to keep pushing the in button till it stops then push the out button for a second then push the in button again and keep cycling till the unit comes in. It will move a few inches each time.

Thanks Paul. I was really curious how you got the slide in, but you present a very useful approach in the event that both motors are still functional. Obviously, if one motor fails, the other has to be dis-engaged and then the slide is pushed-in by hand. This is the one issue I worry about the most and I know the day is coming.

[norty1]

I just read a brochure that came with mine that says to unplug the cables for the motors at the controller and manually push it it then re-connect the connectors.

Of course that is not useful if the rod falls out!

[Rock]

Well not only did I get a new schwintec on my extended warranty but they added the Teflon blocks. That was the recall on another brand. They also cut and installed the Teflon blocks on my bedroom slide. Those shafts were also dropping, now they cannot.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by norty1

I just read a brochure that came with mine that says to unplug the cables for the motors at the controller and manually push it it then re-connect the connectors.

Of course that is not useful if the rod falls out!

I keep reading posts on disconnecting the wires from the motors and you can push the slide in. I replaced a motor one time and let me tell you, you cannot turn the shaft on the motor by hand or with vise grips when in a vise. The gearing will not let you. To get the motor shaft lined up to seat back in place, I had to bump the wall switch. Only way I can see to manually push the slide in, is to take out the mounting screw and pop the motor up out of the shaft.

[hammer55]

did you pull the metal holding the seal covering the mechanism and shaft on both sides, seems I am having similar problems,,

Originally Posted by RVermont

My Lippert in wall system for my bedroom failed last weekend. I had to push the unit closed after it opened part way on one side but did not move on the other side. I removed the motor from the side that was not operating and was able to push it back in. Once I got home I pulled the H channel out and found that the drive rod had dropped down and was not engaging the coupling that transfers the motor rotation to the gears. I also found that the gears were installed upside down, and the top gibs had broken rivets and were not attached to the channel.

The drive rod is held in place by a couple of indentations that appear to be from a chisel. I made these bigger and got it so the rod will no longer drop through the top gear. Used rivet nuts to replace the rivets holding the gibs on and installed the gears in the correct orientation and aligned the s marks in the proper placement.

I am going to remove the other side as the top has always been tighter then the bottom and from what I found out if the s marks are not aligned correct this causes the gears to be off a slight amount which is amplified over the 4 ft distance between gear rails.

The main issue I see with the "Swintec" Lippert in wall system is the lack of ability to inspect it without removing the h channel..

You can not remove the motor without removing the mouting screw which is located outside 9 ft in the air. If the slide is closed and motor fails you can not push the slide out to get to the screw. Not sure how you can remove the motor without getting the mounting screw out.

It really is amazing what they charge for these parts. a rebuild kit with just the rollers, wipers and plastic wear strip is over $250.

[hammer55]

there are two different size motors, does anyone have the part number for the different motors,,

[RVermont]

See attached for two motor numbers. Mine uses the 300:1 motor. 236575

I removed the h channel from the rear side of the slide. I did not end up removing the forward h column as the space to get behind it in the rv is very tight and seemed to be a time consuming project.

To remove the h channel you skimiply put while half way out and remove the motor. Remove the inside bulb seal which contains the motor feed wiring. Remove the dozen or screws on the outside. Put support under the slide as you might need to jack it up to get weight off the h column. Use plastic shims to release the sealing material and slowly pry the column out. Be careful ful not to let any fall in case your Gibbs are broken off. Once out of the wall pull the column away from the gears.

I watched the videos by “ my rv works”. He have several videos on the system and they really help to master the understanding of the unit.

[Bruceter]

I’ve been following this with great interest and have a couple of questions for the people who have the Seneca TS model as I do
Firstly how are you managing to properly lube the inside section of the motor specifically the inside gib when there is little room to access with the slide room in. Do you just extend the slide out part way? Which I read is not recommended.
Secondly where have you located the control board, I’m assuming it’s somewhere under the wardrobe section on the left side of the coach. But that area is totally inaccessible if the slide happen to be stuck in the in position. And have you found a location where to relocate the control boards for better access?

Thanks
Bruce

[RVermont]

You can reach three of the four gibs from inside the unit. The front lower is more difficult, however I just put the slide half way out and using the straw I bend the straw and maneuvered the tip to the inside gib and spray a generous amount to lube. I then run the run in and out to move the lube around. Stopping and starting the unit can cause the unit to get out of alignment however the cure is actually very simple. Just fully extend or retract the slide holding the button for two or three seconds when the motor sound stops. If it is still not aligned move the slide in or out for 5 seconds and then extend or retract till the sound stops again. You might have to repeat a few times if the unit is really not aligned. I had to do this process every time I pulled the unit.

As to the location of the controller they are in the dumbest location possible. Under the cabinets next to the power center. I was going to move it last week but ran out of time before our trip. I am going to move it and the others to the bath cabinet where there is a boat load of space. I just have to make some wiring extensions. That should eliminate one issue that I would have to deal with.

[Bruceter]

Thanks for that RVermont, that’s basically what I have tried to to do with the lubing, I was just wondering if there was a easier way for the inside. As you mentioned pretty tight trying to lay on the floor along side the bed and reach that front lower gib. I’ll have a look and try and find the control boards

Thanks Again
Bruce

[Rustynuts]

LCI is now saying that NO lube is needed on any part of the Schwintek system, it has actually stated this in the manual for years. I have always lubed mine with the recommended CRC dry lube and saw this info posted on a FB page by a person that was an LCI trained tech. I wasn’t taking his word for it so I emailed LCI and this was their reply.

” Hi Brian,

Thanks for reaching out.

Are you having concerns with your slide that requires you to lubricate?

In the maintenance section of the manual it does state that lubricating is not needed. It can actually attract dirt and debris. The lube you are using is the best to use, if you have to use it but this system should not need lubrication.

You do would want to use a warm soap and water to clean the rails.

Aarika A.
Lippert Customer Care Center Tech”

Personally I feel I will still lube but sparingly. I have had inner and outer gibs break loose on the upper right corner but have not had any other issues.

Most controls are mounted under the bed, I didn’t like this and I put in an access panel in the end of the bed that I could get to with the slide closed and moved all the controls, relays and breakers to the area behind this new panel before I had issues.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

LCI is now saying that NO lube is needed on any part of the Schwintek system, it has actually stated this in the manual for years. I have always lubed mine with the recommended CRC dry lube and saw this info posted on a FB page by a person that was an LCI trained tech. I wasn’t taking his word for it so I emailed LCI and this was their reply.

” Hi Brian,

Thanks for reaching out.

Are you having concerns with your slide that requires you to lubricate?

In the maintenance section of the manual it does state that lubricating is not needed. It can actually attract dirt and debris. The lube you are using is the best to use, if you have to use it but this system should not need lubrication.

You do would want to use a warm soap and water to clean the rails.

Aarika A.
Lippert Customer Care Center Tech”

Personally I feel I will still lube but sparingly. I have had inner and outer gibs break loose on the upper right corner but have not had any other issues.

Most controls are mounted under the bed, I didn’t like this and I put in an access panel in the end of the bed that I could get to with the slide closed and moved all the controls, relays and breakers to the area behind this new panel before I had issues.

Does this circuit board go to another slide control?

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Parrott

Does this circuit board go to another slide control?

That controller is for the Power Gear slide on the large living room slide on the drivers side of our RB.

[bdreinv]

Originally Posted by GibbysWorld

This is an interesting option to replace a problematic Schwintek slide mechanism. Watch the video here

I do not think the swap out is worth it, we have both on are camper! Thanks