Pocket Door Seneca

[CAH]

Need help knowing how to remove the kitchen pocket door, on my 2008 Seneca 35 GS. The back roller, passenger side, feels to be off and door hangs down. I see two options, #1 remove one or both wood top trim boards. #2 drop the pocket door rail being held (what I can see) by 2 medium wood screws and one small cabinet screw. Can not see if there is another rail screw or screws at the enclosed walls end. Guess a third option could be “seek and destroy”, cutting a hole in the wall. Thanks Charles

[Grumpy]

Once you remove one trim piece you should be able to access the roller assemblies. There is a small latch on the roller that turns to release the door if I remember correctly.

[CAH]

Grumpy, thanks for the reply. Hopefully the trim is nail on and will pull out straight. Bathroom side has a small crown molding butted up to the trim board.
the kitchen side has a larger crown molding. charles

[javamon]

Originally Posted by CAH

Grumpy, thanks for the reply. Hopefully the trim is nail on and will pull out straight. Bathroom side has a small crown molding butted up to the trim board.
the kitchen side has a larger crown molding. charles

Had the same issue...my trim was nailed on with a brad gun. When you get it off you will see the roller latch that Grumpy mentioned. Turns out that they did not close the latch properly when they installed so a large speed bump at Yellowstone caused the door to come off its track. Replaced the trim piece with decorative brass screws/washers. Works fine going on 3 years.

[CAH]

Thanks javamon, just hope they did not nail and glue the trim on. Sorry to hear you "been there done that" the inputs do help me. charles

[CAH]

The update is not good, but just more work. The back roller was still attached. Found no screw holding the pocket door rail at passenger wall and the rail was bending down inside the enclosed walls. Did find a ½” square drive cabinet screw on the floor. Guess the rail was being held by one ¾” washer head screw and two ½” cabinet screws. Would like to see Jayco’s plans on this build. See three options; #1 find a 32” right angle drill extension and hope I can place a larger screw in the far end hole. #2 remove the upright pantry and cut a hole in the kitchen wall. #3 take it to a RV repair shop. This has now become a long summer project. Thanks for the reply inputs...charles

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by CAH

The update is not good, but just more work. The back roller was still attached. Found no screw holding the pocket door rail at passenger wall and the rail was bending down inside the enclosed walls. Did find a ½” square drive cabinet screw on the floor. Guess the rail was being held by one ¾” washer head screw and two ½” cabinet screws. Would like to see Jayco’s plans on this build. See three options; #1 find a 32” right angle drill extension and hope I can place a larger screw in the far end hole. #2 remove the upright pantry and cut a hole in the kitchen wall. #3 take it to a RV repair shop. This has now become a long summer project. Thanks for the reply inputs...charles

You could ask JAYCO for the cabinet plan. Since it is under 20 yrs old they may still have it available.

https://www.jayco.com/site/contact/service/

[RVermont]

You could always try just replacing the screw fist and then see if it holds up. You might need to build some sort of jig to support the long right angled bit.

I had the screws pull out of my bedroom track and originally just replaced them with larger diameter screws. This fix only lasted a few trips and the stripped out again. I then added several additional screws and that has held for several years. I am not sure you can get the leverage you need to get through the metal track if you add additional screws and I question that just replacing the missing screw will solve the problem long term.

Removing the cabinet should allow you the ability to cut some holes that will be covered by the cabinet. Not sure the exact layout but it appear like the cabinets move in and out with the slide from what I see in the Jayco brochure. If you can get the wallpaper they used then you will have options as you can patch any cuts that are needed.

[CAH]

Grumpy, will look into filling out the request form. Would like to place more holding screws for the rail header board. Need to know what support is above the ¾” board. Do not want to hit electrical or duck work. RVermount, looking at a YouTube video “How to replace pocket door track w/o opening wall” searching for parts I have and will need. Do not have a drill that will fit inside the walls but looking at buying a ¼” hex extension (2 or 3). Having a 105 deg right angle driver will need to do trig to figure how long a support rod I will need. Looks like the support rod will need to drop 15 degrees so the 105 deg angle driver will be at 90 degrees for the rail end support screw. Better lay this out on the garage floor as I have no memory of doing sine and cosine. Thanks again for your inputs….charles