Scwintek slide

[Spider]

I ask this group about this problem because it is where I have found the most real info from people who have actually dealt with the situations we encounter. I have a 2019 RB with 12k miles. Bedroom slide has the deadly one green/nine red diagnostic flash on the slide controller. Have replaced motor/harness/controller/relay. All moving parts are visible and unencumbered. Rollers clean, hard plastic parts as new, no obstacles jammed into mechanism. Works smoothly on controller override. Steady 12.7 volts at controller power. Any thoughts on what I might be over looking? Lippert customer service has been good, done all their diagnostics, but now it's KMAGYOYO! I'm sure that Jayco has never heard of this problem before. Thanks in advance for your help.

[JohnAZ]

This is what works for me after initially having problems:

1. Follow manufacturer's and other posts on this forum for lubrication and cleaning of the operating hardware.
2. Maximize the DC voltage - be on shorepower or generator.
3. Complete the extending or retracting operation - don't stop-start or reverse until the movement stops.
4. Don't overload the slide!!! I think this system is anemic at best...

[Spider]

All operating hardware clean and lubed. It's virtually brand new. Lippert said to be on battery power to minimize chance of over voltage. Tried it both ways. Have operated slide full out,full in on override. Moves easily,seems to have no restraint. Slide is unloaded. Nothing in cabinets, no mattress. Thanks for your thoughts, anymore would be appreciated.

[Nature Ist]

Pardon me for saying this: but are you sure you worked on the correct motor, etc when you replaced the motor and harness? I had a problem with my kitchen slide, and the only way to be sure which number on the controller corresponded to which motor was to unplug one to check which side still tried to operate. It doesn't help much when the controller says #1 and #2 rather than front and rear, etc.
You said you replaced the motor: I discovered on my unit after a lot of troubleshooting and trial and error that I had a cracked magnet on one motor: the magnet is on top of the motor shaft under the plastic cap. I only discovered it when I removed the motor and heard something loose. A cracked magnet could interrupt the counting of revolutions making the controller think there is harness short or broken wire. That was the case for me. I ordered a new motor and the replacement arrived with a cracked magnet from rough handling in shipping. I knew from experience to look carefully before installing it!

[Spider]

Thanks for the advice and your time in trying to help me. I appreciate it. I made sure I was working on the correct motor by doing as you noted. I tried them on the switch. And just to make sure I followed the wires. Lippert says as one stands inside the coach, motor one should be on the left hand. But, trust but verify, is the rule. As for the magnet on the motor, the one I removed is good/not broken. I did not remove the cap on the new one but I did inspect the wires/connector as they seemed to be better than the old one. I inspected it and it did not rattle. Thanks again for your help and perspectives. I will file this and check it if I have to remove it again.

[Spider]

Mobility has forced a couple of days away from tackling this problem. The very worst of all outcomes occurred. I took it apart, put it back together and it worked........3 and a half times. That was with the third new controller, new motor and new harness. I have come to the conclusion that the one green, nine red is also caused by overload caused by too much drag. I noted in my first post that all sliding hardware was free and clear and as new. Well it should be because the slide never puts any pressure on the rollers. At any point of extension I can spin the rollers with my finger. No weight is carried by them at all. I don't think this is how it should work. It seems the entire weight of the slide is supported by the Schwintek frame. Am I correct about this? Am I correct in thinking that a majority of the weight should be supported by the rollers? Or at least a large percentage? I have considered putting a 1/8 steel plate over the plastic one. I think that might put weight on the rollers while not altering how the schwintek gears hit the drive rails. Any thoughts?

[Spider]

I might add... The rollers do you touch the black plastic slides, but ever so slightly. They spin with a very little force of a finger.

[hammer55]

well mine is direct contact,, and on the other motor home I had I had to lift the slide up to put metal under them,,

Originally Posted by Spider

I might add... The rollers do you touch the black plastic slides, but ever so slightly. They spin with a very little force of a finger.

[rgolding]

Our rear slide failed and I blamed the Schwintek gear. Upon repair, it was the collapse of the plastic panel the slide rolled on that failed and did damage the Schwintek Gear. I believe the plastic panels for the slide rollers to roll on was a recall because the original design was to just roll on the fabric of the rear slide. The plastic was replaced with metal and the rear slide has never worked this well.
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A technician, that I have a lot of confidence in, stated that he felt the Schwintek actually builds a pretty good slide mechanism, but how the manufacturers install them can create many concerns.
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Since hearing this, I have looked at a lot of Schwintek installations and, it seems, when used on a lighter slide, they work good. Heavy slides, like the bunk slide on the Seneca 37FS, are quite heavy for such a light gear slide mechanism and the rollers need a good surface, like a metal panel for them to slide on.
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I also personally don't care for the way the Schwintek gears have to be removed. Mechanical things fail and need to be easily accessed to be over ridden. Up and down a ladder many times at each end of the rear slide was not an easy form of damage control. ;-)
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Just my opinion, your results may vary.