Seneca cap interior failures

[Mr Bill]

Yikes!!!!!

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

.......and then I remembered this picture where the chassis is being lifted off a transport truck and if you look where the front lift strap is, at the same location the jacks are mounted......it looks like some frame flex at that point.

Some??? and that is not the only place where rigging is attached. For an empty chassis to flex like that??? I am perplexed.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

Some??? and that is not the only place where rigging is attached. For an empty chassis to flex like that??? I am perplexed.

It’s quite common, I had a 1968 Duece and a half and you would not believe how much that thing flexed and twisted.....it was shocking.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

It’s quite common, I had a 1968 Duece and a half and you would not believe how much that thing flexed and twisted.....it was shocking.

Oh.. I agree that there is a substantial amount of flex... But when I look at the picture and try to extrapolate the amount of flex with no load on the rear part of the frame - vs - where we take our Seneca on back-country (Forest Service Roads, BLM trails and other places a Seneca SHOULD go) that explains why I have had to deal with the front cap / rear cap issues.

I am now considering that the rest of our sidewall should be separated from the frame / floor with all that flex.

It goes to the old saying.. .they don't make them like they used to. .. .. We used to take our prior motorhome back into the most beautiful canyon. There were two parts of that FS-road that crossed a stream twice, and we would be off camber while crossing it... yea - three wheels on the ground and one in the air was normal for us...

I guess the Seneca was designed for Flat Pavement, Flat Campsites and if you wanted to cross a driveway or a dip in the road - you shouldnt.

I need to hunt down those pictures... a 28-ft G30 chassis with one steer tire in the air... getting to camp.

[McGintys924]

It annoys the wife that we have auto-level and I need to use boards, but I never let the jacks pick the front wheels off the ground. I run it up on boards to make it level then use jacks. Just makes sense that there will be frame flexing with all the engine and transmission forward of those jacks.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by McGintys924

It annoys the wife that we have auto-level and I need to use boards, but I never let the jacks pick the front wheels off the ground. I run it up on boards to make it level then use jacks. Just makes sense that there will be frame flexing with all the engine and transmission forward of those jacks.

Adding an air dump greatly reduces having to use any blocking. I think I have only used blocks once since I added air dump on mine and it was because of a severe side to side slope.

[Florida Ranger]

Flex or Not, somebody at Jayco needs thier Butt kicked for not having better Quality Control at least at this point in the fabrication process. Cab and Truck mounting needs to have a separate inspection. Not just an assembly worker looking at finished mounting.. But if a Frog had wings he would not bump his butt so much..

[Mark S]

I am following this with interest. I don’t have separation (yet) but can tell from this discussion and the new noises each long trip that it may be coming. Looking at the photos I am trying to get oriented. What are you removing to get access to the screws? Thanks

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by McGintys924

It annoys the wife that we have auto-level and I need to use boards, but I never let the jacks pick the front wheels off the ground. I run it up on boards to make it level then use jacks. Just makes sense that there will be frame flexing with all the engine and transmission forward of those jacks.

I added a LevelMate Pro to the coach and it is great for pre-leveling with locks if needed. If it is a big site, it also helps you jockey around for the best position. It tells you exactly how much each wheel needs to come up. before you start and during leveling.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Mark S

I am following this with interest. I don’t have separation (yet) but can tell from this discussion and the new noises each long trip that it may be coming. Looking at the photos I am trying to get oriented. What are you removing to get access to the screws? Thanks

Depending on your model, but the drivers side is the easiest to open up. You remove the 3-5 screws (depending on which day it was built) in the flat arched panel right behind the drivers seat, separating the cab from the body. The passenger side on most models have a cabinet that needs to removed to get to this panel. If you are having noises from this area, you probably have broken or backed out screws already.

[Bruceter]

Originally Posted by Mark S

I am following this with interest. I don’t have separation (yet) but can tell from this discussion and the new noises each long trip that it may be coming. Looking at the photos I am trying to get oriented. What are you removing to get access to the screws? Thanks

I’m following this with great interest as well. It does look like the drivers side is simple enough but the right side in the TS model with cabinet and all the electrical systems there looks little more involved!

Bruce

[JAP]

Im looking at a used 2014 36fk 28000 miles. I ran across the video on youtube of the guy with busted off screws on cap. After reading post here Im second guessing my purchase. I cant find many cap issues on line but that doesnt mean many owners just arent aware of it yet. I will certainly take my flashlight and inspect very closely around cap, front and rear.
Thanks Jim

[gymracer]

For some reason just found this post. I have a 35GS. 06 Duramax. Not sure how much this info applies to mine. I did find the top (exterior) screws loose. I installed more and larger screws and resealed. Are they constructed she same inside?

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by JAP

Im looking at a used 2014 36fk 28000 miles. I ran across the video on youtube of the guy with busted off screws on cap. After reading post here Im second guessing my purchase. I cant find many cap issues on line but that doesnt mean many owners just arent aware of it yet. I will certainly take my flashlight and inspect very closely around cap, front and rear.
Thanks Jim

It’s not just a Jayco issue, I have recently seen reporting of the same issue happening on Newmar coaches. Here is a picture from one.

[JohnAZ]

Agree with Rustynuys, and the YouTube poster was very angry and I think disillusioned about what RV ownership entails. He bought a 2 year old Seneca and has no knowledge of its history. Just guessing it was ridden very hard or in an accident like run off the road. I have none of the issues seen on the YouTube on my 18.5. ��

[svoshop]

So I pulled my drivers side off today. I was happy to see no real issue, but also found a real issue.

There was one loose screw. But honestly looked more like they just got lazy and did not tighten it.

What really blew me away was when I saw the wall of my garage through the opening between the cap and the roof of the cab. There is weather strip where the center meets, but as the cab rounds down on the drivers side, there was nothing.

Now, its under the cap, so water would only enter while driving in heavy rain, but still. That sure didn't seem to be the quality I was hoping for. I also have to think that air getting in there with no real way out is going to create pressure in an already questionable space.

I need to grab the square bit to get the cabinet off. And then have a poke around the passenger side.

I will report back and figure out how to host some pictures, as I took a few this morning.

21 Seneca 37M for the record. 2200 Miles

Mike

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by svoshop

What really blew me away was when I saw the wall of my garage through the opening between the cap and the roof of the cab. There is weather strip where the center meets, but as the cab rounds down on the drivers side, there was nothing.

21 Seneca 37M for the record. 2200 Miles

Mike

It sounds like yours is like the original posters but mine was completely tight and sealed good, just broken screws.


We took ours for a drive the other day and after doing both sides with the 3M 5200, caulking seams and insulating we cant believe how much quieter it is, no squeaks or pops going down the road. I also wonder if that was where a lot of the wind noise was coming from as the corners pieces just funnel the air right in the crack along the cab and back unto this area. Tempted to get some foam insulating rod in 3/8" and fill the crack between the cab and fiberglass corner to test this out. I think it could be a permanent thing as I could easily push the foam rod back into that crack and out of sight and the gray foam would blend in with my gray paint.

[svoshop]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

It sounds like yours is like the original posters but mine was completely tight and sealed good, just broken screws.
.

I did not have quite the size of gap that the OP had. But still was entirely too much to be okay.

I don't know if I will make it down to the garage tomorrow, but now I am anxious to see the passenger side...

[svoshop]

Ok, I took a few pictures after taking this all apart. Lets see if I can get this to post.

This is looking through the gap on the drivers side. Seeing the outside from the inside

Camper DS3 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

One loose screw. Honestly just looks like they left it loose

Camper DS2 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

I just wish they were a little more caring. Just a shot of sloppy work.

Camper DS1 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

Outside looking in at the drivers side. With the interior panel removed.

Camper DS4 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

Passenger Side gap

Camper PS2 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

Passenger side had some weather strip, I did remove this to gain access to the gap... It was not doing its job anyways. But it was screwed in at one point.

Camper PS3 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

So the next two pictures really tell the tale. Clearly the coach was painted with the panels installed. You can see all the overspray that made it to the interior of the panel. Therefore that is rain and air that can make it to them too.

Drivers

Camper PS4 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr

Passenger

Camper PS5 by Mike Yeager, on Flickr


With all of the above. My plan it to take some of the sealer that RustyNuts recommends. I am going to slide some weather strip in the gap and seal it with the noted sealer. I had a few screws backed out, but nothing crazy. I think I am going to apply a dab on the threads of the screws and install. I will take back apart after our next road trip and see what happened.

I think if it would to show signs of screws moving again etc. I will add a few holes to the fiberglass and pump sealer/adhesive in it to create a bond between the cab and the coach.

Really shoddy work in my opinion. Just glad I have indoor heated storage to do this. I would be really upset if this were sitting at the dealer right now.

Mike

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by JAP

Im looking at a used 2014 36fk 28000 miles. I ran across the video on youtube of the guy with busted off screws on cap. After reading post here Im second guessing my purchase. I cant find many cap issues on line but that doesnt mean many owners just arent aware of it yet. I will certainly take my flashlight and inspect very closely around cap, front and rear.
Thanks Jim

As another FK owner... our floorplan is more unique than the others... I have had to repair the passenger side a few times at the bottom of the cab fairing.