Seneca cap interior failures

[allanlr]

Pictures of repairs. Hopefully not duplicates.
2018 HJ before and after pics. Drivers side no screws were broken. Passenger side all of them were broken. Replaced the 4 broken with 10 new and repeated the same sealing and insulating process. Very quiet now without any squeaks or rattles!

[svoshop]

Thanks for sharing. I got my weather strip in today and the 3M sealer that RustyNuts recommended. So I will get mine knocked out this week I hope. It's my pre-work hobby, so it may take me a couple of days.

Mike

[Rustynuts]

I am starting to think this area might be contributing to some of the cab wind noise. Being the fiberglass panel does not fit tight to the cab, and no sealant is applied between the cab and fiberglass panel, air flowing around the cab is being channeled in this gap and into the void space which is right behind the seats. Since mine is a charcoal gray color I decided to try filling this crack with foam backer rod, it blends right in and without shining a light on it for the pics, yiu can barely even see it. Pretty much rolled it into the crack with some plastic tools I had and it filled this void nice and tight. It will be interest to see if it helps, if it doesn’t, it’s easily pulled back out.

[svoshop]

I would think that less airflow is better. With all the issues we are having concerning screws backing out etc. I would have to think that the more we cut down on vibration and the pressurization of that space, the better off we are.

Interested to hear your feedback, as I will probably perform this "mod" as well.

Thanks
Mike

[75462]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I am starting to think this area might be contributing to some of the cab wind noise. Being the fiberglass panel does not fit tight to the cab, and no sealant is applied between the cab and fiberglass panel, air flowing around the cab is being channeled in this gap and into the void space which is right behind the seats. Since mine is a charcoal gray color I decided to try filling this crack with foam backer rod, it blends right in and without shining a light on it for the pics, yiu can barely even see it. Pretty much rolled it into the crack with some plastic tools I had and it filled this void nice and tight. It will be interest to see if it helps, if it doesn’t, it’s easily pulled back out.

Hey Brian,

Wonder how a bead of Black 3M 5200 would hold up in that gap.

[svoshop]

Originally Posted by 75462

Hey Brian,

Wonder how a bead of Black 3M 5200 would hold up in that gap.

I think he went with the foam to remove it later if needed. Not to speak on his behalf.

I think any sealer would hold up. Provided you are not trying to fill to large of a void.

Mike

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by 75462

Hey Brian,

Wonder how a bead of Black 3M 5200 would hold up in that gap.

The 5200 is not like a typical caulk, it’s a little thinner and would not stay in this crack before it cured. At the widest point, it is probably a little over 3/8” on mine so that would be pumping a lot of caulk in there. I went with the foam rod as it is closed cell so won’t absorb water, seals good and removable if for some reason it doesn’t work. Figured it’s worth a try.

[75462]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

The 5200 is not like a typical caulk, it’s a little thinner and would not stay in this crack before it cured. At the widest point, it is probably a little over 3/8” on mine so that would be pumping a lot of caulk in there. I went with the foam rod as it is closed cell so won’t absorb water, seals good and removable if for some reason it doesn’t work. Figured it’s worth a try.

I think it’s a source of wind noise and have been wanting to do something with it. Looking forward to your post drive update. Thanks.

[svoshop]

I sealed mine up this morning. I took some pictures and they are all terrible, but I will post anyways in a few.

Looking at the side of the cab where you inserted the foam I am going to do this too. As the air hits the mirror, it has to be deflected right into that opening and I really lean back on the theory that air movement in there is simply going to aid in the movement of the cabin attachment points.

Mike

[svoshop]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I am starting to think this area might be contributing to some of the cab wind noise. Being the fiberglass panel does not fit tight to the cab, and no sealant is applied between the cab and fiberglass panel, air flowing around the cab is being channeled in this gap and into the void space which is right behind the seats. Since mine is a charcoal gray color I decided to try filling this crack with foam backer rod, it blends right in and without shining a light on it for the pics, yiu can barely even see it. Pretty much rolled it into the crack with some plastic tools I had and it filled this void nice and tight. It will be interest to see if it helps, if it doesn’t, it’s easily pulled back out.

What size did you go with?

[Rustynuts]

I used the 5/8”, it was a tight fit at the top but found if you squeeze it real tight it will hold that shape for a few seconds to work it into the crack at the top. Working down it gets easier but then real tight towards the bottom so I used a razor blade and started shaving it down on the side but kept the fit tight. The little plastic tools made it pretty easy to kind of roll it in the crack.

[Pmcmath]

Well at least yours wasn't leaking water behind the enclosures. Yes those streaks are water from ac and rain and you can also see the light outside.

[svoshop]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I used the 5/8”, it was a tight fit at the top but found if you squeeze it real tight it will hold that shape for a few seconds to work it into the crack at the top. Working down it gets easier but then real tight towards the bottom so I used a razor blade and started shaving it down on the side but kept the fit tight. The little plastic tools made it pretty easy to kind of roll it in the crack.

5/8 is what I had ordered, so that's great. I have trim removal tools also that will surely be handy to push into the open space. I finish putting the cabinet back in this morning. If I get off this computer

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Pmcmath

Well at least yours wasn't leaking water behind the enclosures. Yes those streaks are water from ac and rain and you can also see the light outside.

Wow, that seam should have been sealed at the factory before paint was done, has it come out on the outside?


It really seems to be a hit and miss on how well this section is put together, its either pretty decent or done horribly!

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by svoshop

5/8 is what I had ordered, so that's great. I have trim removal tools also that will surely be handy to push into the open space. I finish putting the cabinet back in this morning. If I get off this computer

I had bought a few cameras for an upcoming Seneca project and each one came with the tools I showed. I took one of them and heated the flat hooked end and straitened it out and then flattened the end of it so it wouldn't slice or puncture the foam while trying to work it in the crack...that end worked the best out of all of them.

[Eric&DianeN]

Well I got back in country from work and opened up my passenger side and sure enough like everyone else I had all 4 screws only finger tight and seeing what Brian said it looks like this mold is not quite a good match as the driver side (which I opened up and found all good and tight). I am trying something a little different, I used threaded bolts and nylon locking nuts (plus washers) and was able to snug down really tight. I pulled back the passenger side wall covering where the seatbelt attaches and was able to reach my hand (though very painful position) through an opening and attach the nuts. This really pulled them tight and no movement. My thinking is if there is any wobbling from flex the won't back out as a typical screw. I also used the 5200 marine adhesive in holes for extra measure too. We have a trip coming up 4th July week so that will be the first test. If needing to check I can open up side passenger panel and reach back there to feel if bolt/nuts have started to wobble any which is a whole lot easier than pulling the cabinet out. I will try to attach pics to show. On to the next project!

[repeach]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Well I opened up my passenger side today.

I opened up the drives (port) side and found 1 broken screw in the mold but 2 broken screws on the main board.
I am trying to open up my passenger (starboard) side now.

Brian,
our entertainment centers are the same. I have the fireplace pulled and all the screws I can find (so far 3 broken). Are there screws on the right side of the entertainment center behind the paneling and behind the three sides where the components are? It appears to be stuck on the right side.

[repeach]

Nevermind Brian, there were two screws behind the paneling on the right side of the TV.

So, there were 3 broken screws holding the entertainment center in place.
Two of the three screws holding the cover plate were broken
And there are two holes in the mold.
Lots of daylight coming in.
I should have my 3M 5200 glue on Monday and will start putting everything back together with new screws and insulation.

Interestingly, when I push on the mold, it squeaks the same way that Angel says she hears while driving down the road.

[Firewrench]

I took my Accolade apart and had the same gaps and broken screws. Showed Mama the overspray on the back(front?) of those filler panels. Got it all sealed up, my local hardware store had the big caulking gun sized tube of 5200.
I also had no broken screws on left side, but added some. Now have 10 bigger screws on right side. Filled the side cab-to-body gap with the foam backer rod and used the black 5200 to close it up since the paint is black there.
This forum is awesome.

[dneeld52]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

I straightened your pics out, it’s hard looking at them sideways I have found if you crop your pics ever so LS lightly and save them the forum will post them correctly.

Thanks, I agree. It's easier to see the whole picture now.

Damian Neeld
Carmel, IN
2018 Seneca