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Old 07-08-2021, 02:15 PM   #61
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curious, how did the repair for the broken screws where the cab and fiberglass overlap work out? Have the screws held with the 5200? I have a 2019TS and we just discovered the same problem.
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Old 07-08-2021, 02:35 PM   #62
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how did it all go back together on the inside, after the repair,, finish wise,,
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Old 07-08-2021, 02:51 PM   #63
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curious, how did the repair for the broken screws where the cab and fiberglass overlap work out? Have the screws held with the 5200? I have a 2019TS and we just discovered the same problem.
Over 3000 miles since I did the work and still not a squeak out of it. The foam rod won’t stay in, the wind works it out but I can say you really can’t tell any difference in noise with it in or out.
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Old 07-08-2021, 02:52 PM   #64
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how did it all go back together on the inside, after the repair,, finish wise,,
Everything went fine with mine, took my time to use all the same screw holes and everything went together great.
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Old 07-08-2021, 03:17 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mossjayco View Post
curious, how did the repair for the broken screws where the cab and fiberglass overlap work out? Have the screws held with the 5200? I have a 2019TS and we just discovered the same problem.
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Originally Posted by Rustynuts View Post
Over 3000 miles since I did the work and still not a squeak out of it. The foam rod won’t stay in, the wind works it out but I can say you really can’t tell any difference in noise with it in or out.
Mine went back together easy too.

But we haven't used the rig yet, still finishing some other mods. We are/were scheduled to leave next week but with the Delta strain spreading like wildfire here in AR we may wait a couple more weeks.

Interesting to hear about the backer rod. I was hoping it would stay and help. I guess we will see.
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Old 07-08-2021, 04:50 PM   #66
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Rusty,
Glad to hear your backer foam was not staying in! Mine was doing the same thing, driving down the road and a snake was wiggling out my window🤣. I thought I was doing it wrong. What are your thoughts about using a flexible sealant there instead?
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:54 PM   #67
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We put ~200 miles on a couple weekends ago. We did have a minor squeak/groan before, seemed like it was in the floor area at the cab/body from my vantage point in the driver’s seat. Was not obnoxious, but now it seems better, maybe the 10 new bigger screws on right side helped… When I was working on it, I thought about shooting some 5200 into the screw holes, but it’s quite a gap between the fiberglass and the cab corner, it would just run down. Your corner may vary. I used the backer rod in the outside gap and covered over it with 5200. It stayed put, didn’t run. I stopped the caulk at the end of the black paint. So far the cab has not flexed enough to break the caulk. The place I park the rig in the yard tweaks it pretty good. We have the little coat locker in the right front corner, so easier job than if you have the fireplace and TV there.
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Old 07-09-2021, 04:47 AM   #68
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Thumbs up

thanks all,,
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Old 06-28-2022, 02:01 PM   #69
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Entertainment Center

Re:2017 37HJ


Hey Y'all,


I addressing the cap failure. I let it go way too long that it had recently begun to stress and tear the cab headliner in places.
Are there any secret screws that I can't seem to find in order to remove the entertainment center?
I removed every screw I can find but it still seems like something is holding it on the entry door side.


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Old 06-28-2022, 02:26 PM   #70
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Never mind....Found 'em. Didn't even see that panel.
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Old 06-28-2022, 03:24 PM   #71
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Cab pillar posts

Re: 2017 37 HJ

Does anyone know if there are any interior cab pillar post attach points under the headliner that need to be reinforced?
As long as I have the interior torn down, I would like to get everything locked down at the same time.


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Old 06-30-2022, 03:56 PM   #72
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Headliner

So...the last couple of trips, I notice the headliner moving around to the point it is tearing in a couple of places at the cab pillars. Also the interior cab light panel is popping out of it's location. I embark upon the cap interior failure project. I find the screws in the driver's side fiberglass have broken through the fiberglass and a very lame attempt by Jayco to use any fasteners from the cab into the bottom of the overhead bunk platform. Very disappointing to say the least.
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Old 06-30-2022, 07:33 PM   #73
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I dread investigating this when I get home after this trip. But prevention beats cure.
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Old 07-01-2022, 08:49 AM   #74
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It is definitely not for the faint of heart. Reinforced the fiberglass with a couple more layers & upped the screws to #12 with fender washers.
I'm out here in west Texas without my air stapler which is in storage. It's gonna take some upholstery work to get it all back together correctly.
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Old 07-01-2022, 03:46 PM   #75
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My 2022 is creaking and pulling away already. I am having this repaired under warranty over the winter with the re-paint. I found that if you place the bed cutout in while driving, the creaking is greatly reduced. Not a permanent fix by any means, but much better than listening to all the cracking while driving.
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Old 07-01-2022, 05:33 PM   #76
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Unbelievable that a new rig would exhibit this.
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Old 07-03-2022, 09:40 AM   #77
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Coach to Frame

Re:2017 Seneca 37 HJ
Does anyone know how/where the coach body mounts to the Freightliner frame? I am preparing to re-attach the cab to the overhead cap and it appears it may have shifted from the original attach points as the screws sheared. Just double-checking everything.
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Old 02-09-2023, 08:33 PM   #78
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Reviving this old subject…..I just saw a Facebook post where the seam was repaired with bolts,nuts and a long strip of aluminum from ceiling to floor. Has anyone here done this?
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Old 02-09-2023, 08:59 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGPAPA1970 View Post
Reviving this old subject…..I just saw a Facebook post where the seam was repaired with bolts,nuts and a long strip of aluminum from ceiling to floor. Has anyone here done this?
Rustynuts and I have both done it. After two previous traditional repairs including larger and more stainless steel screws I went to "the nuclear option".

Used stainless 10-24 x 3" bolts, fender washers, and nylock nuts. Used a 2" wide backer strip floor to ceiling on both driver and passenger sides. Then I made wood covers to cover the seams.

Also took the opportunity to completely reconstruct the controls cabinet inside the entry door. Original was presswood covered with vinyl "woodgrain", it was falling apart.
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received_760449625134624 (1).jpg   Passenger side seam inside.jpg   Driver side trim.jpg   Passenger side trim.jpg   Controls cabinet.jpg  

Controls cabinet inside.jpg  
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Old 02-09-2023, 09:27 PM   #80
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I thought that might have been you guys. So you think this is the fix?
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