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Old 06-16-2019, 08:44 AM   #1
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Seneca Converter

Hello out there in Seneca land
I have a 2017 37TS Seneca can you tell me where the convert is located? I read an article before that had pictures of its location which I believe its in the bedroom by the Fuse box is that correct. I wish I could find that article again it was a good article.


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Old 06-16-2019, 10:59 AM   #2
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Not sure about the Seneca but my 2017 Greyhawk has the converter under the bed. This is also where the circuit breaker and fuse panels are so it makes sense. To gain access I had to unscrew the end wooden portion under the bed.

If yours is the same you will likely uncover a rats nest of wiring. Jayco apparently does not take pride in their work for items that are out of view.
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Old 06-16-2019, 11:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy View Post
Hello out there in Seneca land
I have a 2017 37TS Seneca can you tell me where the convert is located? I read an article before that had pictures of its location which I believe its in the bedroom by the Fuse box is that correct. I wish I could find that article again it was a good article.


Thank all
John

Boy
Never mind I found it. I thought that was just a fuse box Good

Grief.

Another couple question should the fan be running or does it just run when it needs to cool down?
What does the charger wizard button do?


Thanks!


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Old 06-16-2019, 12:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy View Post
Never mind I found it. I thought that was just a fuse box Good

Grief.

Another couple question should the fan be running or does it just run when it needs to cool down?
What does the charger wizard button do?


Thanks!


John
Boy
The fan will run periodically to cool the workings, and run more frequently as 12-volt electrical demands increase such as charging depleted batteries or running lots of items that use the 12-volt house power.

The charge wizard button is a way to "force" the converter into its different charging modes. The converter's modes are several voltage "steps" that allow the system to properly charge and maintain your batteries yet not overcharge them like some older converters would. The button is a diagnostic tool but your converter should automatically switch modes as needed without any action by you. The varying flashing of the led next to the button tells you what mode the converter is in presently and will change flash patterns if you use the button to force a change.

I posted a copy of my Progressive Dynamics converter manual in the Manuals section of the site, your converter is probably very similar. Here is a link to that file: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/d...?do=file&id=41
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:38 PM   #5
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Thank you Rob!!!
I did find the manual later in the day and now understand the wizard button.

I wanted to make sure the converter was working
The reason I'm asking is because 4 weeks back:


I cleaned my 4 house batteries and refilled with of course distilled water. I went to my indoor storage area to do some minor work and I notice this sediment under the battery area. After close inspection it looked like dry up battery acid. I opened the B-compartment and I could not pull the try out. I had to have my wife pull in the 2 locks while I force-able pulled that tray out. All batteries looked good so then I started to feel them. One of the batteries was super hot. So at that point I decided to take the Seneca home because I needed to wash out the tray and the rails. Once the battery was out (the back left one, looking at it from the front of the tray) What a mess, acid looked like white crystal. The battery showed no damage just hotter then hell. After the battery was removed for 30-45 minutes it was still very warm. I ended up replacing the battery thinking it may have been a bad cell.


Now yesterday same problem but this time no batteries were hot just saw the sediment of acid again on the floor in the indoor storage and on the tray. After taking it home again I found one battery that 2 cells on the same side were dried. I refilled the cells and plugged the Seneca back into shore power 2 hours later that battery was warm 3 hours very hot and I can hear it bubbling and then some smoke. I turn the shore power off. Today I removed that battery and now I just have the 3. Kept the cables for the removed battery together with 2 nuts & bolts and electric tape. The Seneca has been plug into my 50Amp outlet for 6 hours now and no issues with battery heating up.


Two bad Interstate batteries WOW. All was fine until I cleaned the batteries for the season. They were not that dirty. I used CRC battery cleaner and water. Had all power off 12v and 120. Hmmmmm

Any suggestions or just bad batteries after 2 yrs?

Again that Rob

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Old 06-16-2019, 07:20 PM   #6
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The original batteries Jayco installs in our units are likely the cheapest ones they can lay their hands on. Mine came with Harris "dual-purpose" batteries and they went bad less than 2 years out. On my unit I strongly suspected they went dead sitting on the dealer's lot and froze over the winter. They charged them back up when I bought the unit in the spring, but the internal damage was done.

I replaced my four coach batteries with Trojan T-105 true deep-cycle 6-volt batteries. I also installed Trojan's single point battery watering system so it is super easy and to keep them full of water. Changing to these batteries required some minor rewiring of the battery connections but it was very easy. I have attached a short description of how my batteries are connected. And these four deep-cycle batteries have more capacity than the original 12-volt units and have given great service. I expect several more years of life before I need to change them.
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File Type: pdf Battery wiring explanation.pdf (29.6 KB, 14 views)
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:46 AM   #7
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Thanks Rob,
WOW what a neat setup!

I put water in my batteries using a plastic bottle garden sprayer. In the future I plan on installing AGM batteries. Our past 5th wheel I replaced 1 interstate battery with 2 AGMs. So it seems I had 2 interstate batteries that went rouge within 4 weeks apart. I'm now going to my storage daily and checking the batteries condition, so far after 2 days all is good.

I don't see an issue with the converter.


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Old 06-22-2019, 10:10 AM   #8
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Yet another Converter question.

From reading many post here is it correct that the converter chargers the Chassis batteries when plugged into shore power? If so I would not need to connect my battery minder to the 2 battery post in the engine bay on the passenger side? I've been doing this since 12/17 after picking up the Seneca at RV express in Indiana.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:24 AM   #9
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Yet another Converter question.

From reading many post here is it correct that the converter chargers the Chassis batteries when plugged into shore power? If so I would not need to connect my battery minder to the 2 battery post in the engine bay on the passenger side? I've been doing this since 12/17 after picking up the Seneca at RV express in Indiana.
Yes the Seneca chassis batteries are charged via the converter because of an installed device know as the "Battery Isolation Manager". I have attached some information for your reading pleasure!
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:30 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy View Post
Yet another Converter question.

From reading many post here is it correct that the converter chargers the Chassis batteries when plugged into shore power? If so I would not need to connect my battery minder to the 2 battery post in the engine bay on the passenger side? I've been doing this since 12/17 after picking up the Seneca at RV express in Indiana.
John,

There is a device in your battery bay that connects and monitors your batteries, both house and chassis. It resembles a solenoid with a computer module attached. It is hot on both terminals!! Whenever the computer detects a low voltage condition in either battery bank it closes the solenoid and charges the batteries. It allows the alternator to charge the house, and the generator or shore power to charge the chassis.

The white button in the cab also closes this solenoid to allow house batteries to start the engine.

Additionally, on top of the chassis battery bank is a 50amp circuit breaker. It will trip fairly easily. When it does, weird electrical gremlins start appearing!! It's difficult to see, but easy to reset.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:50 AM   #11
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Thank you again Rob.
Wow, this Jayco forum is an excellent resource and the fast response. So much to learn about these beast its never ending. From wind noise coming from the mirrors (fixed that last year) to plugged fuel vents.

From all the reading I've been doing the past couple of weeks I need to go and check all my grounds.
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Old 06-22-2019, 10:58 AM   #12
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John,

There is a device in your battery bay that connects and monitors your batteries, both house and chassis. It resembles a solenoid with a computer module attached. It is hot on both terminals!! Whenever the computer detects a low voltage condition in either battery bank it closes the solenoid and charges the batteries. It allows the alternator to charge the house, and the generator or shore power to charge the chassis.

The white button in the cab also closes this solenoid to allow house batteries to start the engine.

Additionally, on top of the chassis battery bank is a 50amp circuit breaker. It will trip fairly easily. When it does, weird electrical gremlins start appearing!! It's difficult to see, but easy to reset.
Thank you Chuck,
Yes I very aware of the 50AMP breaker on top of the chassis battery from the many post on the forums about issues dealing with it plus some great pictures. Nope, I've not had those gremlins issues but if I do I know where to first check.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:17 AM   #13
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In the future I plan on switching out the house wet cell batteries with lifeline AGMS. Since I just replaced 2 of the interstate batteries this past month (stated in previous posts). Can you mixed the 2 types? I did read that you can mix the chassis and house batteries but not sure if you can mix just the house batteries.
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Old 06-22-2019, 11:51 AM   #14
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In the future I plan on switching out the house wet cell batteries with lifeline AGMS. Since I just replaced 2 of the interstate batteries this past month (stated in previous posts). Can you mixed the 2 types? I did read that you can mix the chassis and house batteries but not sure if you can mix just the house batteries.
All the batteries in a house bank should be the same chemistry and it is recommended that they even be approximately the same age for maximum performance and life. Likewise with the chassis (starting) batteries but you could have FLA batteries for starting and AGM for the coach or vice versa. Just don't mix them in a bank.

For our chassis batteries you don't want deep cycle, you want ones with high cold cranking capabilities. We are trying to fire a high compression diesel!
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Old 06-22-2019, 05:15 PM   #15
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All the batteries in a house bank should be the same chemistry and it is recommended that they even be approximately the same age for maximum performance and life. Likewise with the chassis (starting) batteries but you could have FLA batteries for starting and AGM for the coach or vice versa. Just don't mix them in a bank.

For our chassis batteries you don't want deep cycle, you want ones with high cold cranking capabilities. We are trying to fire a high compression diesel!
Thanks Rob for confirming what my understanding was. Oh yea, Chassis batteries, Yes, No deep cycle just LARGE CCA but they will be AGMs.



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