Seneca Engine Code - 4364

[javamon]

On the next to the last day of our 28 day journey my 2017 Seneca threw a check engine light. Code on the scanguage is 4364, FM 15. If anyone is familiar with this code I could use some guidance. In the meantime i'll did through the Freightliner manual and Google.

Thanks!

[Mountain Cajun]

I think it's a DEF thing. Try a Parked Regenetation and see if that clears it. Did you just fill the DEF tank?


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[javamon]

I filled the DEF tank several weeks ago.

[mikew968]

Most of the time it is a bad nox sensor. it can also be a bad scr injector, bad urea, urea crystals in the decomp tube, wrecked SCR, bad dosing pump/plugged filter, or a leak in the urea system.

This from a truckers site.

[SloPoke]

open this document... many of the Detroit docs are interchangeable

https://ddcsn-ddc.freightliner.com/c...csn/808-14.pdf

[Mark S]

Just a thought, but did you try clearing the code with the scan gauge? Did it return? Hope you figure it out and it's easy.

I have been using about a gallon of DEF every tank of fuel. How did you add a couple weeks ago, are you stationary?

Also, will your inverter power your microwave? Mine throws an E-01 code which means low voltage on batteries.

[memphis02]

I believe the previous owner of mine had this issue and it was a defective wiring harness / def pump assy.

[javamon]

Just to refresh the situation, the DEF tank was half full and had not been added to for some time. My DEF usage seems to mirror the standard 50:1 or 2%. When I first cleared the code with my ScanGuage, the ScanGuage indicated that it was successfully cleared, but the check engine light was still lit. After several unsuccessful attempts I dug into the ScanGuage docs which reccomends setting the "Alt Clear" if the default clear does not work. I set the "Alt Clear" and the code and light were cleared. Never had this issue again for the remained of the 800 miles home. I think the rapid descent from 8k+ feet down to Dallas elevation (whatever that is) over 5 hours w/o stopping the engine caused the problem. After I cleared the code in Longview, Tx and the Seneca sat overnight, no more issues. Thanks very much for all the inputs!

[javamon]

Originally Posted by Mark S

...Also, will your inverter power your microwave? Mine throws an E-01 code which means low voltage on batteries.

My inverter does power the microwave. Worked fine on the trip...28 days, 4800 miles with two grand kids. I thought some of the AC outlets were powered by the inverter, but I must have been mistaken because none were active w/o shore or gen power.

[Mark S]

Glad you got it worked out Dave.

I think the inverter only works the TVs, microwave and the bedroom outlet below the TV. I'm thinking my battery(s) must be weak as it powers TVs but indicates low voltage and shuts off with the microwave. I'll work on that when I get home in October.

[Dananu]

Originally Posted by mikew968

Most of the time it is a bad nox sensor. it can also be a bad scr injector, bad urea, urea crystals in the decomp tube, wrecked SCR, bad dosing pump/plugged filter, or a leak in the urea system.

This from a truckers site.

Sitting in Anchorage Ak. Arrived Thurs with an amber eng lt in dash. Had cleared code with scangauge day before. After hours on Internet and manuals it appears to be after treatment related. Possible derate and shutdown. Freightliner here couldn't look at it for a couple of weekks. Have appt at cummins Tues 8 am. Next Freightliner on my route is Whitehorse Yukon 700 miles away. Was planning on a side trip to Valdez another 240 miles. Didn't want to be down in between. Electronics are great when they work, but I could work on old mechanical engines. (Screw in fuel shutoff override on pt pump, tow start and go).

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[javamon]

Originally Posted by Dananu

Sitting in Anchorage Ak. Arrived Thurs with an amber eng lt in dash. Had cleared code with scangauge day before. After hours on Internet and manuals it appears to be after treatment related. Possible derate and shutdown. Freightliner here couldn't look at it for a couple of weekks. Have appt at cummins Tues 8 am. Next Freightliner on my route is Whitehorse Yukon 700 miles away. Was planning on a side trip to Valdez another 240 miles. Didn't want to be down in between. Electronics are great when they work, but I could work on old mechanical engines. (Screw in fuel shutoff override on pt pump, tow start and go).

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Mine never reappeared after I cleared it. I still think mine may have been altitude related. Had spent several weeks at 7k+ ft and then made a rapid descent (5 hours) to 500 ft w/o shutting down. Time will tell. Good luck with yours and please keep us updated.

[RVermont]

Originally Posted by Mark S

Glad you got it worked out Dave.



I think the inverter only works the TVs, microwave and the bedroom outlet below the TV. I'm thinking my battery(s) must be weak as it powers TVs but indicates low voltage and shuts off with the microwave. I'll work on that when I get home in October.

Mark.
Hope you are having fun exploring the northeast. You might want to put a wrench on the battery terminals. When I was looking at units on the lot I found one that I could tighten down by hand. Certainly not a good connection. My voltage drops when making coffee or running microwave but pops right back up when done.

Heading to NC this Thursday to drop the kids at their schools. This will be the first long trip 750 on Thursday/Friday and then 750home on Monday.
So far it has all been good. Enjoy Maine.


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[Dananu]

Originally Posted by javamon

Mine never reappeared after I cleared it. I still think mine may have been altitude related. Had spent several weeks at 7k+ ft and then made a rapid descent (5 hours) to 500 ft w/o shutting down. Time will tell. Good luck with yours and please keep us updated.

Tech hooked up computer and no active codes, but 11 NOX sensor fails in last 25 engine hours which qualified for warranty replacement. With computer he also ran a 45 minute extra hot regen. This engine has several NOX sensors. The problem one is near turbo and not fun to change. All seems good now a couple hundred miles down the road.
I either forgot or never knew cummins warranties this engine in an rv for 5yrs 100,000 mi.

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[Mark S]

Originally Posted by Dananu

Tech hooked up computer and
I either forgot or never knew cummins warranties this engine in an rv for 5yrs 100,000 mi.

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I hope I am wrong, but I thought I read the warranty was ony 2 years, which surprised me since the warranty on Ram trucks with Cummings is 5 yr/50,000 miles.

I'll feel a whole lot better if your right.

[Dananu]

Originally Posted by Mark S

I hope I am wrong, but I thought I read the warranty was ony 2 years, which surprised me since the warranty on Ram trucks with Cummings is 5 yr/50,000 miles.

I'll feel a whole lot better if your right.

My book also sayes 2 years, but 5 is what the cummins service mgr in Anchorage told me.

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[Janiemae]

Found you Seneca owners. We are looking at purchasing a Seneca. How are they with towing in hilly and mountains. We will be towing a 4 door jeep. thanks so much.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Janiemae

Found you Seneca owners. We are looking at purchasing a Seneca. How are they with towing in hilly and mountains. We will be towing a 4 door jeep. thanks so much.

The short answer is they tow pretty well and handle grades better than many (smaller) gasoline coaches. I tow one of two vehicles depending on our passenger count, both tow very well. While I get passed by all the cars and pickups on long grades, I generally can pass all the loaded semi trucks. That was not the case with my prior two Ford-based Class C units. I was always the slowpoke.

For more info I would suggest you use the "Search" function up top and type in "Seneca towing". You will find lots of threads from other Seneca owners and see their questions and experiences.

I love my Seneca, would absolutely buy it again.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by Dananu

My book also sayes 2 years, but 5 is what the cummins service mgr in Anchorage told me.

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Just reviewing my "Owner's Warranty Information for North America" pamphlet and noticed page 5 lists specific components and how long they are covered under warranty, e.g. battery is warranted for 1 year/100,000 miles. The 7th item listed is "Diesel Emission 2010" which is warranted for 5 years/100,000 miles. Since your repair was an diesel emissions defect/repair, that is probably the 5 year/100k miles figure the mechanic referenced.