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Old 08-24-2020, 08:07 AM   #1
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Seneca Frig ventilation problem

I've noticed my frig having trouble keeping the temps inside under 40 degrees when it is 90+ degrees outside. I ordered a fan kit to place at the top of the outside vents to push the hot air from aroudn the frig outside. I took off the top vent cover from the side of my RV and this is what I saw. (See picture). Only abotu 3 inches at the top is open for air to escape. The plywood also overlaps the cooling fins on the frig by about an inch.

Has anyone dealt with the problem and have a solution to how they dealt wioth it?

I was thinking of cutting about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the top of the plywood so that it only comes to the bottom of the fins and then install the fans to pull air through the fins and force the air out as best the fans can, seeing as how 2 of the 3 rows of opening in the vent cover will still be blocked by the plywood.

The diagram of the frig from Norcold shows a baffle covering up the fins on the back, but this one overlaps and I'm not sure if it should.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 08-24-2020, 08:14 AM   #2
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I recall lots of discussion in previous threads on this subject. Try some searching using the search engine listed in my sig. Here is one.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ion-68409.html
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Old 08-24-2020, 08:31 AM   #3
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I did a search of the forum, and found a few posts, but not the one you linked. That is the one I needed to find.

Thank you,
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Old 08-24-2020, 08:56 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by jvteach77 View Post
I did a search of the forum, and found a few posts, but not the one you linked. That is the one I needed to find.

Thank you,
I used the same search engine but different wording maybe: I used refrigerator venting.
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Old 08-24-2020, 11:21 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by jvteach77 View Post
I've noticed my frig having trouble keeping the temps inside under 40 degrees when it is 90+ degrees outside. I ordered a fan kit to place at the top of the outside vents to push the hot air from aroudn the frig outside. I took off the top vent cover from the side of my RV and this is what I saw. (See picture). Only abotu 3 inches at the top is open for air to escape. The plywood also overlaps the cooling fins on the frig by about an inch.

Has anyone dealt with the problem and have a solution to how they dealt wioth it?

I was thinking of cutting about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the top of the plywood so that it only comes to the bottom of the fins and then install the fans to pull air through the fins and force the air out as best the fans can, seeing as how 2 of the 3 rows of opening in the vent cover will still be blocked by the plywood.

The diagram of the frig from Norcold shows a baffle covering up the fins on the back, but this one overlaps and I'm not sure if it should.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Attachment 62730
Have recently been through this challenge - https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tes-78403.html

Dont recommend cutting down the baffle, as you may accidently have the air short path through the lower part of the fins versus going all the way through for heat exchange.

Draw fans, insulating around the unit, and a fridge fan are going to be the biggest help.
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Old 08-24-2020, 12:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by atlantaM3 View Post
Have recently been through this challenge - https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tes-78403.html

Dont recommend cutting down the baffle, as you may accidently have the air short path through the lower part of the fins versus going all the way through for heat exchange.

Draw fans, insulating around the unit, and a fridge fan are going to be the biggest help.
looking at his picture... it looks like the air is not going thru the fins on the top of the fridge at all. The air should be forced thru those fins, and then out the top vent.
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Old 08-24-2020, 01:07 PM   #7
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I probably have tried the most with mods to get our fridge In our Seneca to work right and finally gave up. Try searching “Seneca Norcold” that will give you some good threads. I did cut my upper baffle down to the height showed in the manual in the relationship to the outer vent cover and then added fans at the top. While it helped, there was no huge improvement. Another thing to check is the baffle mounted above the fridge, mine was in backwards and diverting the heat back over the top of the fridge cavity. The fridge cabinet has lots of voids around it for heat buildup and the key is to direct that heat out the top vent any way you can as that’s the min thing that affects the cooling. I finally gave up and installed the JC Refrigeration HVAC unit that converts the Norcold to a compressor cooling unit and couldn’t be happier!

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...old-77850.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...d-69536-2.html
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Old 08-24-2020, 02:18 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by SloPoke View Post
looking at his picture... it looks like the air is not going thru the fins on the top of the fridge at all. The air should be forced thru those fins, and then out the top vent.
The air is going throught he fins, since there is no way for air to get out of that space, except going through them.
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Old 08-24-2020, 02:20 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Rustynuts View Post
I probably have tried the most with mods to get our fridge In our Seneca to work right and finally gave up. Try searching “Seneca Norcold” that will give you some good threads. I did cut my upper baffle down to the height showed in the manual in the relationship to the outer vent cover and then added fans at the top. While it helped, there was no huge improvement. Another thing to check is the baffle mounted above the fridge, mine was in backwards and diverting the heat back over the top of the fridge cavity. The fridge cabinet has lots of voids around it for heat buildup and the key is to direct that heat out the top vent any way you can as that’s the min thing that affects the cooling. I finally gave up and installed the JC Refrigeration HVAC unit that converts the Norcold to a compressor cooling unit and couldn’t be happier!

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...old-77850.html

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...d-69536-2.html
My top baffle is likely a problem, since I don't remember seeing one. I could easily see the entire top of the refrigerator and I could see that is was a 2-3 inch high void over the frig with no insulation. There was some fiber insulation on the sides, but zero on top.
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:29 PM   #10
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This problem really needs to be a "sticky" with a list of threads where this information has been shared. It is a common problem with RV fridges, gets worst as the outside temps go up, and is a weekly, if not daily question with all of the new owners.



In a few weeks the question will go away, but it will be back with the first 90 degree days next summer.
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:33 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jvteach77 View Post
My top baffle is likely a problem, since I don't remember seeing one. I could easily see the entire top of the refrigerator and I could see that is was a 2-3 inch high void over the frig with no insulation. There was some fiber insulation on the sides, but zero on top.

Check that upper baffle, Manual says it should be 1/4" or less between baffle and fridge. Like in my pic, I beleive mine was installed upside down because if it was flipped, it would be right.
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:01 PM   #12
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I think Jayco sent out all these Seneca’s with the baffles on the back installed incorrectly and wrong materials. When we first got our Seneca I was concerned about the side wall of the cabinet against the fridge feeling quite warm when running it on propane. So I thought I would check the the back vents and see what was what.
When I took off the top vent the piece of plywood was hanging crooked with one screw holding one side. I found the installation instructions and compared it to was was there and it wasn’t even close. Top baffle as Rustynuts mentioned looked backwards plus there no insulation to be found and Item #26 on Rustynuts diagram says it’s to be aluminum or sheet metal not wood!
Anyways the dealer pulled the fridge out fully insulated the fridge cabinet and did the back baffles as per the instructions that I supplied them and our fridge has worked quite well and the side wall the was quite warm seems to fine now as well.
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Old 08-24-2020, 06:48 PM   #13
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Read the threads RustyNuts has listed. Mine was like his left side open and top baffle incorrectly installed. The piece of metal from factory was just laying on top of unit allowing hot air to circulate over top of refer and stay in the “box.”
Large open area next to refer on left side allowing warm air to linger in refer “box” so I built barrier along left side of refer to insulate and contain heat to area at rear of refer and close of the side of refer. RustyNuts used metal, I used ½” sheets of insulation board cut a little larger than the opening and force into place all the way up the side and then taped this in place. Hope this makes sense to you. Basically, with the top deflector in place this holds the heat towards the rear of the box rather than around the refer for more efficient venting up to and out the top vent.
I currently have one computer fan in the middle of the top fins to pull air up and out of the "box." Mine works well but I have noticed its much less efficient while I am driving. I have accurite thermometers in freezer and refer and the temp goes up when I am moving. I don't know if there is a vortex or void along the side when one is moving with air not moving normally through the vents. If you get the side closed off and the top baffle in place you will see improvement.
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Old 08-24-2020, 09:49 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jvteach77 View Post
My top baffle is likely a problem, since I don't remember seeing one. I could easily see the entire top of the refrigerator and I could see that is was a 2-3 inch high void over the frig with no insulation. There was some fiber insulation on the sides, but zero on top.
That is a big issue... that is heat-load being consumed by the cooling capacity of the cooling unit.

That area is supposed to be Isolated/insulated from the heat that is generated by the boiler unit.

Rustynuts posted the full install specifications for minimum clearances in another thread that described the specifics and baffles... If they are not followed in a side venting install - it will never work well.
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Old 08-25-2020, 07:13 AM   #15
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Upper Baffle is installed incorrectly

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Originally Posted by Rustynuts View Post
Check that upper baffle, Manual says it should be 1/4" or less between baffle and fridge. Like in my pic, I beleive mine was installed upside down because if it was flipped, it would be right.
I checked the upper baffle and it is nearly flush with the top of the frig comparent. It is doing nothing to stop the heat from just sitting on top of the frig as it is now. I felt around for the screws holding it in and it would near impossible to take them out without pulling the frig out. Would it be possible to pull/bend the baffle down as it is now to get it to 1/4 inch above the frig top as the manual shows? I'd prefer to avoid having to pull the frig out if possible.
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Old 08-25-2020, 07:36 AM   #16
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I seem to remember Rustynuts redoing his baffle without removing the fridge, I think he made a new baffle up in two pieces and managed to install it. I’m sure he will chime in on what he did
Like I mentioned earlier, the dealer removed the fridge and properly insulated it and installed the baffles correctly

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Old 08-25-2020, 07:49 AM   #17
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I seem to remember Rustynuts redoing his baffle without removing the fridge, I think he made a new baffle up in two pieces and managed to install it. I’m sure he will chime in on what he did
Like I mentioned earlier, the dealer removed the fridge and properly insulated it and installed the baffles correctly

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Old 08-25-2020, 08:12 AM   #18
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My top baffle is likely a problem, since I don't remember seeing one. I could easily see the entire top of the refrigerator and I could see that is was a 2-3 inch high void over the frig with no insulation. There was some fiber insulation on the sides, but zero on top.
Insulation around the fridge is actually a big issue. Mine had none on the top, and only a thing strip around the edges at the side. I bought some of this and cut it to fit around the body of the fridge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had room for 4 layers on the sides, 5 on the top. This made a huge impact on the temp variance of the unit during the day.

It also works really well in the single pane window frames too - fits in perfectly against the glass, just the right thickness.
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Old 08-25-2020, 08:24 AM   #19
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Insulation around the fridge is actually a big issue. Mine had none on the top, and only a thing strip around the edges at the side. I bought some of this and cut it to fit around the body of the fridge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had room for 4 layers on the sides, 5 on the top. This made a huge impact on the temp variance of the unit during the day.

It also works really well in the single pane window frames too - fits in perfectly against the glass, just the right thickness.
Did you use the 3, 5 or 10mm thickness?
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:31 AM   #20
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Did you use the 3, 5 or 10mm thickness?
I used the 5mm, as at the time I could not find the 10mm available for sale.

The 5mm is perfect for the windows in my unit, just the right thickness to tuck in around the edge of the glass - I have frameless windows.

10mm would be good for the fridge unless it is really close to the walls/roof.
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