Seneca Generator Fault Code 38?

[jvteach77]

I have the QD 8000 diesel generator and it has shut down on me a couple times over the past month and given me the fault code 38 each time. I've tried looking online to find out what that code means, but I've had limited success. I've read that it means overcurrent, but I'm not sure what that means and how to fix the problem causing it to shut down. No breakers have been tripped in the coach due to this issue. Anyone have any knowledge or advise about this fault code?

Thank you,

Jason

[Rustynuts]

Searching the operating manual I found this....Code 38 is Overload not Overcurrent.

[jvteach77]

That is handy information. So it seems I just need to reduce the load on the generator and all will be well?

Thanks

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

That is handy information. So it seems I just need to reduce the load on the generator and all will be well?

Thanks

That may or may not solve the problem, but that is where you start.

[SloPoke]

We have had this multiple times.

Reduce the load, balance the load across the two phases.

I had to move some of the loads onto the other phase to get rid of these errors in hot weather.

[jvteach77]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

We have had this multiple times.

Reduce the load, balance the load across the two phases.

I had to move some of the loads onto the other phase to get rid of these errors in hot weather.

I’m nearly electrically illiterate. What do you mean 2 phases? Is this a job I can do? I’m pretty good with other repairs, just not electricity.

[Crossingover]

Perhaps on the newer Seneca's there is an energy management system (EMS) installed. Had an EMS on our previous rig and it helped prevent most load management conflicts automatically.

[jvteach77]

Originally Posted by Crossingover

Perhaps on the newer Seneca's there is an energy management system (EMS) installed. Had an EMS on our previous rig and it helped prevent most load management conflicts automatically.

I'm 99% sure it already has an EMS installed, but I've read that the generator produces a max of ~66 amps under ideal circumstances. I was running both air conditioners, the frig, plus some lights and other small items when the shut downs happened, so I could have gone over that limit. It was a bistering hot day both times and the frig was having trouble keeping the temp inside under 45 degrees. It normally hovers around 32 degrees, but this trip I noticed that it couldn't keep it under 45 even when limiting the number of times we opened the frig door and how long the door was opened. I had the frig set to the coldest temp so I assume it was using the max amps it can draw.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

It normally hovers around 32 degrees, but this trip I noticed that it couldn't keep it under 45 even when limiting the number of times we opened the frig door and how long the door was opened. I had the frig set to the coldest temp so I assume it was using the max amps it can draw.

I think you have a gas/elec fridge so the current draw is always the same and is only 2-3 amps. Normally the EMS that JAYCO installs in on the smaller GREYHAWK units with 30 amp service and 2 a/c's. Don't think it was used on the SENECA. You may have an a/c unit that has a starting capacitor going bad causing a higher than normal current draw too.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

I’m nearly electrically illiterate. What do you mean 2 phases? Is this a job I can do? I’m pretty good with other repairs, just not electricity.

I looked at the high load appliances in our Seneca. We have:
AC-1
AC-2
Fridge
Fireplace/heater
Converter/charger
Microwave/Convection Oven
Outdoor Power outlets.

The Generator provides two 120v circuits, they separate AC-1 and AC-2 so they are balanced between the two... The rest of these high load appliances should be balanced across these two circuits, If they put the Fireplace, Converter and Convection oven all on one of the two - and they all were running. That would exceed the generators capacity on one circuit, leaving the other one relatively underutilized.

Originally Posted by Crossingover

Perhaps on the newer Seneca's there is an energy management system (EMS) installed. Had an EMS on our previous rig and it helped prevent most load management conflicts automatically.

Our 2015 does not have any EMS that I am awere of beyond the Energy Command 30 that is connected to run the Generator. It does sense the AC when it wants to cool, House battery voltage to charge them when they are low.

[SloPoke]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

I think you have a gas/elec fridge so the current draw is always the same and is only 2-3 amps. Normally the EMS that JAYCO installs in on the smaller GREYHAWK units with 30 amp service and 2 a/c's. Don't think it was used on the SENECA. You may have an a/c unit that has a starting capacitor going bad causing a higher than normal current draw too.

Our Norcold gas/electric fridges have two 300W heating elements that are ON when the fridge is on AC

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by SloPoke

Our Norcold gas/electric fridges have two 300W heating elements that are ON when the fridge is on AC

Still only 5 amps total and normally on all the time. Not like a residential fridge that has a compressor that cycles.

[Crossingover]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

It normally hovers around 32 degrees, but this trip I noticed that it couldn't keep it under 45 even when limiting the number of times we opened the frig door and how long the door was opened. I had the frig set to the coldest temp so I assume it was using the max amps it can draw.

Check operability of fans mounted in the upper chimney section on the back of the fridge. You should hear them running. They help move air from the lower louvers up and over the condenser section and exhaust out the top louvers. Setting fridge temp higher just increases evaporator run time, not the rate of cooling. I’ve read that the cooling cycle operated ‘better’ on propane instead of electricity. May want to mode over to propane and see if you get better cooling.