Seneca Modifications

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Jeepin Jason

How many lights did you use? Looks good, I like the magnet idea. I have these on my Jeep and it would be kind of cool to have them matching on the Seneca.

I used one set of 8 lights. I put 2 across the back and the other 6 up the passenger side. Didn’t feel the need to have any on the drivers side.

[JoeyNick]

Originally Posted by mrdavidson09

Did you need to modify the wiring when installing these LED headlights? I purchased similar headlights from amazon and was able to see the benefit they provided when mounting the driver’s side units; but when i finished the install on the passenger side, the low beam units on both sides had a complete reduction in power. The high beams still work great, but the low beams are so dim we can’t drive at night. Can’t figure out what needs to be modified, or why they only dimmed when both sides were finished (upgraded side worked great when the other side remained OEM).

2006 Jayco Seneca, Kodiak 5500 chassis

The headlights came with wiring adapters. I recall having to try several wiring arrangements until I found the right one. Try changing the wiring order, maybe something isn't quite right.

[JoeyNick]

Originally Posted by hammer55

I have seen somewhere that someone changed out their kitchen faucet, well wanting to know, mine has a sealing ring between the faucet and the counter top, when you replace it with a regular home faucet, did you install the plate that comes for that counter mount or ? I (we) are sick of the crap that came with the seneca,,,,

I changed out the bathroom faucet...

We used plumbers putty in place of the old faucet sealing ring. The new faucet didn't come with a sealing ring and plumbers putty was recommended.

Once installed, we spilled some water around the faucet to check for leaks and it was fine.

[repeach]

Another small mod... It always bothered me that the two bed windows and one in the family room slide open all the way. i.e. either fully open or fully closed.
A little dremel tool work and now I can open the windows just a little or all the way.

[Semix-Hex]

This will be really nice to have. Fairly easy to install.

[repeach]

I finally got around to removing the macerator pump from my RV. I got off my butt after seeing 2 different people have problems with theirs in one week. Removing it was easy, four bolts on the bottom, the rubber coupling, and cut three wires and it was out. The hard part was the fact that the down pipe sweeps to the right. I had to bring it all the way back to the left which took two 90s. I know you are not supposed to use 90s on horizontal sewer lines, but it works. The good part is the grey is always last and it cleans the line. I installed some treated wood support under the third valve. Didn't need the third valve but I liked the idea of safety from leaks. My neighbor had laying around a 12vdc light he no longer needed. Took about 10 minutes to tie into the small light in the front of the white panel and now I can light up the new storage area.
All in all, I believe this will save me a mess later down the road, and give me more storage.

[Rustynuts]

Personally I would have eliminated all that excess plumbing and cut the drain off at the red line. Then using a Fernco made to slip over a 3" hub with the other end ready for 3" drain pipe. Install the valve right at the Fernco coupler, would clean things up a lot and give you more storage space. You could cut the pipe at the valve and install it right up into the Fernco and then get a clear 45° off the valve and you would have a straight shot to the floor hole. Nice thing about ABS it its easy to rework it....I changed mine twice before it the way I liked it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Semix-Hex]

I must have gone to the Rustynuts trial by error school of thought. I had two other variations of the waste line after I offed the maserator pump before remembering that I had a Drain Master setup from a previous 5th wheel.
It was a win win win because now I don't keep the hose inside the compartment which gives me more room for my water filter and small parts.
Next I'll be moving my water inlet across to the right of the bay, so the water hose is seperate from the waste line.
Fermco couplings are your friend.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Semix-Hex

Next I'll be moving my water inlet across to the right of the bay, so the water hose is seperate from the waste line.
Fermco couplings are your friend.

I also hate the cross over of the fresh and waste side, I even installed a aluminum panel to separate them. I moved my fresh fill and filter to the right side. This is my final sewer layout, I was connecting an running a short hose out the hole in the floor but went a bit further as I hate any accidents in the bay so I took it out through the floor and everything is hooked up outside the compartment.

[repeach]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Personally I would have eliminated all that excess plumbing and cut the drain off at the red line. ...

I thought about that and laid it out. It would have not left room for the valve and my clear section of pipe. I wanted the valve to be easily accessible without hitting my hand on the white panel. It also would have covered the opening that the stinky slinky goes through. I leave my stinky slinky connected all the time and just pull it up into the left side of the wet bay.

We have a short trip planed the the DFW area next month and we will see how it goes. It will be a nice shake down before we leave for SE Canada for the summer.

[repeach]

I searched all over for a Bed Lift I could buy for our bed. Everyone said you can not put a lift on a bed that slides when the pedestal doesn't slide. It took some engineering, but I think I got it. I started with some 2x2 but realized that the hydraulic shock would not mount on the side. Took an old bed frame angle iron and used it. I put a hinge on one end and mounted that to the 2x2 at the head of the bed. That way the angle iron can stay down while the bed goes up, and it will slide with the bed. Then drilled several holes for the shock mounting so I could adjust the lift. Then I had to build guides at the foot of the pedestal so the angle iron would slide straight. The DW can now lift the bed by herself. It stays up and it stays down.
We have a short trip to DFW next month as a shake down before we head to SE Canada for the summer. Hopefully every will work correctly.

[repeach]

missed the most revealing picture.

[Rustynuts]

Finished the latest upgrade today, I added a Ninja Foodi 10 in 1 XL oven/Airfryer under the cooktop. This will free up valuable counter space and add more cooking options. Installing it was pretty easy and fit perfect in this spot.

[repeach]

Awesome job Brian!
We have two drawers under our cooktop and I wanted to put a dishwasher in there. The wife will not let me get rid of the storage space in those drawers.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by rpietsch

Awesome job Brian!
We have two drawers under our cooktop and I wanted to put a dishwasher in there. The wife will not let me get rid of the storage space in those drawers.

Thanks, I took care of our drawer problem by using the empty space under the fridge which was just a vent grill into a drawer…...I hate wasted space. I left it all up to my wife and she wanted the Ninja there.

[Jeepin Jason]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Thanks, I took care of our drawer problem by using the empty space under the fridge which was just a vent grill into a drawer…...I hate wasted space. I left it all up to my wife and she wanted the Ninja there.

Great job with the installation! Where did you tap into the power to add the additional plug?

I am thinking about repurposing our washer/dryer area. Possibly placing an air fryer and dishwasher in that space. The drain and power are already both there. Just waiting to see how much we end up using the washer/dryer combo.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by Jeepin Jason

Great job with the installation! Where did you tap into the power to add the additional plug?

I am thinking about repurposing our washer/dryer area. Possibly placing an air fryer and dishwasher in that space. The drain and power are already both there. Just waiting to see how much we end up using the washer/dryer combo.

When I did my Inverter upgrade, the original 12/2 romex lines that ran from the factory inverter to the main panels were abandoned. I added a junction box and used one of the lines to run up to the cabinet. Worked out great and was easy but I could have also easily ran a line back to the main panel following the heat duct routing to the rear of the coach. I pretty much have fairly easy routes to run anything above the floor on our RB.

We would never give up our Washer/Dryer, we use it all the time.

[DonkeyFluffer]

We used ours everyday for the past 5 days at Fort Monroe. Kym said it was nice not bringing home a pile of dirty laundry.

[repeach]

Not a big Mod, but a mod none the less.
The DW never liked to have to ask me to roll her window down and I didn't like to have to reminder to lock the doors.
So, thanks to member allanlr for the suggestion, I swapped some switches on the dash.
The passenger window switch is now on the far right side.
The mirror heat is just to the left of that.
The door lock is now on the left next to the drivers window switch.
BTW, talk about 10 lbs of wire in a 5 lbs bucket :- )

I like the simple things in life that make the DW happy.

[Semix-Hex]

I moved our water inlet to the left side to keep it away from the waste area. The Anderson Powerpole is to run my water filter pump, air compressor or waste pump.