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07-26-2018, 10:47 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 408
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I have a Viair setup mounted on my Jeep for airing back up.
I've looked at mounting a hose real on the RV next to the battery slide out tray but never needed anything more than what my Jeep on board air could do.
I have a nice little spot for a hose reel with exposed metal frame for mounting. I'm just not sure I "need" it yet.
I would guess a person could mount another valve between the air tanks and the suspension air bags..... this could isolate the suspension from the air tanks when you need air but don't want the bags to refill.
I've also considered putting a 110v compressor in my trailer. I have an extra compressor in my garage but just not sure I "need" it out camping yet.
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2018 Seneca 37RB
2005 LJ Rubicon - Sahara #90
2019 Can Am X3 XRS Max
2009 ATC enclosed trailer
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07-26-2018, 07:14 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kingman AZ and where our Seneca is today.
Posts: 3,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVermont
That is a boat load of air required. would take a while at 2.5 cfm.
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EXACTLY... that is why the Viair system on the Toyota does not cut the mustard when we need a lot of air, need it now and lots! Sometimes it is multiple air lines from multiple sources - trying to supply air tools and fix a tire (or two).
Quote:
Originally Posted by RVermont
Not sure how your parking brake is controlled, on my unit the parking brake is automatic when transmission is placed in park, and when pulling into a camp site I might get in and out of the unit a half dozen times. Could you install a separate air solenoid to supply the autodump control air. That would allow you to select when the valve operates. You could have the engine running and the bags would remain deflated.
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All Air parking brake systems are pretty much the same... ours is a driveline brake that actuates when there is no air pressure and releases the brake when air is applied.
In regards to additional valves... That is an idea to consider... thinking about the entire hitching / unhitching process too...
Backing up under the hitch with suspension aired up... engage parking brake and the rig squats - hooking up the trailer could get more complicated too...
__________________
Steve & Stacy with Jasper (Australian Cattle dog)
2015 Seneca 36FK
Custom 27' flatbed trailer hauling:
07 Toyota FJC & Yamaha Kodiak 400 ATV
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07-27-2018, 03:37 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Wherever I wake up in the RV
Posts: 1,988
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Suspension Dump.
It's raining and I was bored, so I started to read the M2 Body Builder Books' electrical diagrams. Really bored! Anyway, Freightliner has a M2 Suspension Dump circuit. Drawing # G06-41015, Suspension Dump - AMU. I was wondering if anyone utilized this feature. Seems similar to adding fog lights. Add the components (Smart switch & Air Manifold Unit) and enter the programming and your done.
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2014 Golden Burgundy Seneca 37FS
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07-27-2018, 11:11 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kingman AZ and where our Seneca is today.
Posts: 3,120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zinkow
Suspension Dump.
It's raining and I was bored, so I started to read the M2 Body Builder Books' electrical diagrams. Really bored! Anyway, Freightliner has a M2 Suspension Dump circuit. Drawing # G06-41015, Suspension Dump - AMU. I was wondering if anyone utilized this feature. Seems similar to adding fog lights. Add the components (Smart switch & Air Manifold Unit) and enter the programming and your done.
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Does it show a part number for the Air Manifold Unit?
__________________
Steve & Stacy with Jasper (Australian Cattle dog)
2015 Seneca 36FK
Custom 27' flatbed trailer hauling:
07 Toyota FJC & Yamaha Kodiak 400 ATV
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07-28-2018, 01:05 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Wherever I wake up in the RV
Posts: 1,988
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This is off of the referenced dwg.
Suspension Dump Control:
Air Manifold Unit (MOD910)
P/N: 12-18208-000
Mating Conn: PAC12168482
Suspension Dump Switch (MOD870)
P/N: A06-37217-036
Mating Conn: CELLC2-01
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2014 Golden Burgundy Seneca 37FS
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07-31-2018, 04:10 PM
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#46
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Panama City
Posts: 569
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I would have never considered tackling this mod until I read this thread. I was surprised how simple this mod actually is. Looks like the hardest part for me will be deciding where to place the valve activation switch. Thanks to all for sharing your install info.
I can't figure out why two valves are needed. Can this be done with one valve with a two-input manifold on the valve input side and the flow control installed on the valve output (exhaust)?
__________________
Dave & Patricia
2017 Seneca 37FS
2016 Toyota Highlander
Kar Kaddy SS
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07-31-2018, 05:09 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javamon
I can't figure out why two valves are needed. Can this be done with one valve with a two-input manifold on the valve input side and the flow control installed on the valve output (exhaust)?
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The stock air springs are separated pneumatically to prevent air from "shifting" side to side when cornering. If you tied them together leading into a dump solenoid you defeat the isolation. There was a user that did tie them together and didn't seem to have any ill effects, but may have later changed to individual valves.
All OEM installations always use a separate dump system for each air spring, there must be some reason they do!
__________________
Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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08-01-2018, 06:02 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Panama City
Posts: 569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr
The stock air springs are separated pneumatically to prevent air from "shifting" side to side when cornering. If you tied them together leading into a dump solenoid you defeat the isolation. There was a user that did tie them together and didn't seem to have any ill effects, but may have later changed to individual valves.
All OEM installations always use a separate dump system for each air spring, there must be some reason they do!
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Thanks Rob. Didn't think about the left/right flow-thru that one valve will allow. I like the idea of keeping the air supply to each bag isolated.
__________________
Dave & Patricia
2017 Seneca 37FS
2016 Toyota Highlander
Kar Kaddy SS
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08-01-2018, 06:23 AM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,209
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Hope I helped!
Leave tomorrow for first of 3 upcoming trips since installing my dumps. All driveway tests seem to show it helps make leveling easier and reduces the Airliner creep, but real campsites will be the true proving grounds!
__________________
Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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08-01-2018, 10:27 AM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr
Hope I helped!
Leave tomorrow for first of 3 upcoming trips since installing my dumps. All driveway tests seem to show it helps make leveling easier and reduces the Airliner creep, but real campsites will be the true proving grounds!
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Let us know how it works out for you.
I've also noticed reduced creep in the driveway test.
I should get my electrical fitting this week to plug mine into the Equalizer leveling system for the automatic air dump. Hope to get mine buttoned up and try it out on our next trip in a couple weeks.
I've never been excited to "level" with the Seneca. It's always been a process before the air dump valves install so hopefully this changes the process for the better. Our old class A spoiled me on leveling with it being stupid simple to dump and level.
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__________________
2018 Seneca 37RB
2005 LJ Rubicon - Sahara #90
2019 Can Am X3 XRS Max
2009 ATC enclosed trailer
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08-01-2018, 10:42 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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We just got back from a couple day trip. When we pulled into our pullthru spot, of course it was sloped nose down pretty bad, so I dumped the rear and started leveling. Jacks barely lifted the rear and the front went up to level and the tires were still on the ground! I know if I had not been able to dump the rear, the front tires would have been around 2-3" off the ground. Great mod I would not hesitate to do again!
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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08-01-2018, 12:17 PM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
We just got back from a couple day trip. When we pulled into our pullthru spot, of course it was sloped nose down pretty bad, so I dumped the rear and started leveling. Jacks barely lifted the rear and the front went up to level and the tires were still on the ground! I know if I had not been able to dump the rear, the front tires would have been around 2-3" off the ground. Great mod I would not hesitate to do again!
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Good to hear !
Are you using blocks or pads under the jacks ?
If yes, what kind of pad and thickness ?
I'm using some 4x12 chunks of wood but wondering what everyone else is using.
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__________________
2018 Seneca 37RB
2005 LJ Rubicon - Sahara #90
2019 Can Am X3 XRS Max
2009 ATC enclosed trailer
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08-01-2018, 12:21 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD3
Good to hear !
Are you using blocks or pads under the jacks ?
If yes, what kind of pad and thickness ?
I'm using some 4x12 chunks of wood but wondering what everyone else is using.
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If it is blacktop like yesterday I do not use any additional pads. If sandy, soft or rocky I use 1 1/8" x 12" x 12" pieces of plywood that I have. I have never had to use additional height to get leveled out but I carry 12 of the plywood pads just in case.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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08-01-2018, 01:33 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD3
Good to hear !
Are you using blocks or pads under the jacks ?
If yes, what kind of pad and thickness ?
I'm using some 4x12 chunks of wood but wondering what everyone else is using.
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I have these Bigfoot pads (not the same as my leveler company) that are 15" X 15" X 1.5". Heavy poly material, I have never seen them deflect. Built a box in the left front compartment to store them. Have to bend down to place them, but when we break camp I use my window awning stick to grab the rope and pull them out.
I do carry four 2' sections of 4" X 4" just in case I need it for tires or jacks.
__________________
Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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08-17-2018, 08:43 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Akron
Posts: 3,209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr
Hope I helped!
Leave tomorrow for first of 3 upcoming trips since installing my dumps. All driveway tests seem to show it helps make leveling easier and reduces the Airliner creep, but real campsites will be the true proving grounds!
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Got back from a 2-week trip to Maine and New Hampshire, the new air dumps made leveling easier than ever. No chocking the front wheels to prevent creeping while bleeding the air bags manually. With the Bigfoot's built-in dump logic I no longer had to fuss with that process. Just push the Auto button, the air dump light comes on, and the bags dump for about 45 seconds. Plenty of time to dump all the air in a controlled manner. The air dump light goes out and then the leveling starts. I had reset the level "zero" point before leaving, the Bigfoots took me to level easily each time. And when coming down off the jacks there was far less "Airliner creep" than before. I won't say it didn't move at all, but it was far less than before and there was no dragging the jacks across the ground.
So I will call my dump valve installation a complete success!
__________________
Rob R.
Akron, OH
2014 Seneca 37TS
Toads: 2019 Ford Edge ST or 2013 Ford Focus ST
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08-19-2018, 08:24 AM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Davie, Fl.
Posts: 1,020
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Hi Rob. I am glad your trip went well and hopefully you had a great birthday. We are still in Angel Fire NM and loving it.
Happy to hear your dump valves were a success and want to consider doing mine when we return home. I'll be picking your brain then.
Welcome back, you were missed here.
Mark
__________________
Mark and Joanne
2018 Jayco Seneca 37TS (M2)
2023 Jeep Rubicon XT Recon
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09-13-2018, 09:29 AM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Manchester Center
Posts: 1,519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD3
I am waiting for a response.... I'll keep you in the loop on what I find out.
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Did you ever get the correct spades from Equilizer systems? I have my wire jammed in the connector and holding it with electrical tape, I would like to get is set up more securely.
Using the dump valves has made the whole process of setting up much quicker. My wife has remarked how much calmer I am now and how much quicker the whole process goes. She used to take the dog for a long walk as I raised and lowered the unit to get the air out so the front end was not sitting up in the air.
Now she is barely out the door and I am level and starting to move the slides out.
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09-13-2018, 10:15 AM
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#58
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVermont
Did you ever get the correct spades from Equilizer systems? I have my wire jammed in the connector and holding it with electrical tape, I would like to get is set up more securely.
Using the dump valves has made the whole process of setting up much quicker. My wife has remarked how much calmer I am now and how much quicker the whole process goes. She used to take the dog for a long walk as I raised and lowered the unit to get the air out so the front end was not sitting up in the air.
Now she is barely out the door and I am level and starting to move the slides out.
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They sent me the wrong connection twice.... very willing to help but it took awhile to get it sorted out.
The correct connection you need is called an "AMP mini socket".
I don't have a link to where mine came from.
A google search pops up the link below which looks like what I ended up using and it to work perfect.
https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connec...?st=171639%201
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__________________
2018 Seneca 37RB
2005 LJ Rubicon - Sahara #90
2019 Can Am X3 XRS Max
2009 ATC enclosed trailer
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09-13-2018, 10:18 AM
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#59
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Manchester Center
Posts: 1,519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MD3
They sent me the wrong connection twice.... very willing to help but it took awhile to get it sorted out.
The correct connection you need is called an "AMP mini socket".
I don't have a link to where mine came from.
A google search pops up the link below which looks like what I ended up using and it to work perfect.
https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connec...?st=171639%201
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Thank you, I appreciate your help, I will get some of these coming.
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09-18-2019, 05:00 AM
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#60
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Daytona Beach
Posts: 33
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Just finished installing dump valve on my S2RV based coach. This thread was very helpful so thanks to everyone who contributed. I did not want mine hardwired into the leveler so I just installed a switch to dump.
I did find these which I don't remember seeing on the thread. They are dump-rated solenoids made by Vixen that come with a dump valve. Otherwise some electrical wire, some air hose, couple push connect T's, few brass connectors, etc and it was pretty straightforward.
https://www.amazon.com/Vixen-Air-Sus...omotive&sr=1-2
One other thing I learned along the way was the rocker switches come in different sizes. We need L series switches on Freightliner S2RV coaches if you have blanks you are installing into.
Final solenoid looked like attachment
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