Seneca Rear Slide Issues

[smt29camper]

January our unit was at the dealership we bought it from in TX for the third repair of the rear slide that went bottom side out. They disconnected the system and realigned the rack and told us it was fixed because they ran it in and out several times. We took it to the camp and it did go out. We left TX to head to FL, where we are now at, and three weeks ago it happened again. Jayco had told us of a repair shop near where we were going in FL, I guess they thought it may happen again, so we contacted them. They are working with us to get the parts and set up a time to try to make the repairs. The tech agrees the three 4 inch rollers underneath the slide box are not enough and is trying to get Jayco to okay longer and more rollers under it. I am hoping that this forth time might be the charm and it gets fixed. My wife is not enjoying me crawl over her to get out of bed at night as much as I am.

[gymracer]

I think these post has help solve my leak problem. I got a leak on the rear slide of my 35GS. The water is coming out at the edge of the floor by the head of the bed. I could not find where it was coming in. It seemed to be coming between the black cover of the floor and the floor it's self. I've looked at caulking and not found a crack but know it don't take much. When you'll are saying picture frame are you saying the frame on the coach it's self or the frame on the slideouts? Thanks for any help.

[ed4ster]

Finished a little tune-up on our bunk slide.
Replaced the outer slide seals and installed a rear gutter extension to prevent water from running down the rear passenger side then seeping into or around the bunk slide seals.
Picture 3 sealed behind this area with ProFlexRV, added screw to secure.
Picture 4. I noticed the butyl sealer was squeezing out along that edge leading me to believe that aluminum frame may be flexing when the bunk slide goes in to its final stop. I think this may be the cause of pulling the sealant apart at the lower picture frame on the outside surface. After adding fasteners every 2" that screwed through the lauan board into the aluminum tube bunk frame. Any screws that were stripped out I replaced with the next size larger screw. picture 5.
Picture 6, 7, and 8 I replaced the plastic roller tracks for the bunk slide with 1/8" x 12' x 24" aluminum plate. My thinking that increasing the roller track width would better distribute the load over a greater area. Only the cheap 5.2 lauan and 1 1/2" styrofoam support two of the roller tracks. Luckily the center roller track is backed by one of the aluminum cross members in the bunk slide frame. Also, our plastic roller tracks were not mashing into the launa cover board and no rotten areas as in Clayduster71's case. I replaced the roller tracks to ensure we continue to roll in and out smoothly. Lastly, in picture 7 you have to remove the carpeted facia on the inside to access the 2 screws per old plastic track and the new track as well.

On the outside picture frame, I dug out the older ProFlexRV sealant and replaced it with new again of the same to ensure we stay leak-free.

Note if any of you FS owners choose to do any roller track replacement use caution when lifting to install each 1/8" plate and not to over lift and damage the Schwintech components.

Credit is due to Alan's (Clayduster71) trailblazing post last year, I thought I would tackle this before we encounter any issues as he did with his 2012 37FS.

Many thanks again Alan for sharing with us.

Replacement seal info AP Products 018-338-BLK Slide in secondary seal-black

Ed

[Clayduster71]

Thanks for the shout out! My slide out rework is still working great. I do think Jayco should bulk up the framing at production and do a better job of waterproofing so this would be a non-issue.

Alan

[Fulltime Seneca]

I have the same issue. I just felt the floor under the slide in the rear of the bunk slide and my fingers pushed up. Pulled up the carpet and the floor is rotted.

To replace the floor do you absolutely have to take the slide out? Or could you tear floor and replace while it’s still in the RV?

[Fulltime Seneca]

Clayduster71 How long dis it take you for all of that work you completed? Would you be willing to help rebuild my slide if you are near Ohio. I would love to bulk it up like you did if I have to replace the whole floor.

[Clayduster71]

I own several businesses so I really don't have the time to help you.

There is no way this floor can be replaced without removing the slide and laying it on the exterior side. The floor is a unit and has to be unscrewed from the walls. It's not very hard to take the slide out. You just either need a forklift to handle it or fab up a dolly that height out of wood. The slide is not terribly heavy, just awkward. I HIGHLY recommend doing the work in a shop.

Don't make the mistake of using thicker material than what Jayco used (like 7/16 osb) there is not room for the additional material. The slide needs to be dead on the same height as it came out.

[javamon]

Originally Posted by Clayduster71

Thanks for the shout out! My slide out rework is still working great. I do think Jayco should bulk up the framing at production and do a better job of waterproofing so this would be a non-issue.

Alan

Alan,


Thanks for all the great info. As you stated, the big culprit here is the plastic sheeting that ends up trapping any moisture that gets inside. Would cutting out the plastic sheeting underneath the slide slide and painting the luan plywood be feasible in your opinion?


Thanks again!

[Fulltime Seneca]

Originally Posted by Clayduster71

I own several businesses so I really don't have the time to help you.

There is no way this floor can be replaced without removing the slide and laying it on the exterior side. The floor is a unit and has to be unscrewed from the walls. It's not very hard to take the slide out. You just either need a forklift to handle it or fab up a dolly that height out of wood. The slide is not terribly heavy, just awkward. I HIGHLY recommend doing the work in a shop.

Don't make the mistake of using thicker material than what Jayco used (like 7/16 osb) there is not room for the additional material. The slide needs to be dead on the same height as it came out.

Alan,

Did you then have to remove everything in the entire slide to take the slide out and remove the floor? Or just like the bottom bunk and the draws in the master. Any issue you ran into taking everything apart to get to the point of taking slide out.

I would like to do the most I can before taking to a shop because this is going to cost a fortune. I would love to do the work myself but do not have a indoor area to work on it.

I have seen others support the sides by connecting 2x4s to the side of the slide. Then taking the floor out. Do you think that’s an option on our model?

[Clayduster71]

I don't see how you could unscrew the bolts holding the floor to the slide without removing it. I could see replacing the top floor facing the bunks, but if this is rotten I guarantee the lower floor is rotten as well.

Paint will hold the moisture in as well. It's just a stupid design.

[Fulltime Seneca]

I was talking to a guy that just cut out the floor on his slide while still in the RV. Then replaced with the Aluminum sheet. Was able to get over the rollers and screw it all back in.

Clayduater71 did you use a full sheet of aluminum spanning the whole length? Or two sheets together?

Also by any chance to have still have the exact measurements of that aluminum frame? For I can get a sheet of aluminum cut.

[BIGPAPA1970]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28ZhF9VLdmA

I hope this link works. Not a Seneca but can give you an idea.

[Fulltime Seneca]

Thank you!!

I have seen this. The problem is ours is a schwintek and supported by rollers. So you really can’t lift to much and it has the aluminum framing as well. So my plan is to cutout all the bad luan board on the bottom and them replace with the sheet of aluminum.

[Fulltime Seneca]

Clayduater71 I am about to tackle this job this week. I am going to hold slide up and rip out all of the bottom flooring. Replace the foam and put 3/16 aluminum sheeting on the bottom.

Did you run into any issue installing the schwintek corner molding back over the aluminum? Not sure the current thickness of the rotted floor.

[Fulltime Seneca]

Originally Posted by ed4ster

Finished a little tune-up on our bunk slide.
Replaced the outer slide seals and installed a rear gutter extension to prevent water from running down the rear passenger side then seeping into or around the bunk slide seals.
Picture 3 sealed behind this area with ProFlexRV, added screw to secure.
Picture 4. I noticed the butyl sealer was squeezing out along that edge leading me to believe that aluminum frame may be flexing when the bunk slide goes in to its final stop. I think this may be the cause of pulling the sealant apart at the lower picture frame on the outside surface. After adding fasteners every 2" that screwed through the lauan board into the aluminum tube bunk frame. Any screws that were stripped out I replaced with the next size larger screw. picture 5.
Picture 6, 7, and 8 I replaced the plastic roller tracks for the bunk slide with 1/8" x 12' x 24" aluminum plate. My thinking that increasing the roller track width would better distribute the load over a greater area. Only the cheap 5.2 lauan and 1 1/2" styrofoam support two of the roller tracks. Luckily the center roller track is backed by one of the aluminum cross members in the bunk slide frame. Also, our plastic roller tracks were not mashing into the launa cover board and no rotten areas as in Clayduster71's case. I replaced the roller tracks to ensure we continue to roll in and out smoothly. Lastly, in picture 7 you have to remove the carpeted facia on the inside to access the 2 screws per old plastic track and the new track as well.

On the outside picture frame, I dug out the older ProFlexRV sealant and replaced it with new again of the same to ensure we stay leak-free.

Note if any of you FS owners choose to do any roller track replacement use caution when lifting to install each 1/8" plate and not to over lift and damage the Schwintech components.

Credit is due to Alan's (Clayduster71) trailblazing post last year, I thought I would tackle this before we encounter any issues as he did with his 2012 37FS.

Many thanks again Alan for sharing with us.

Replacement seal info AP Products 018-338-BLK Slide in secondary seal-black

Ed

Hey Ed4ster do you think 3/16 would have fit in there without issue?

I cannot get dry weather or a shop to get the floor replaced. It’s not extremely bad. Just a little soft on each end.

My plan is to do 3/16 under each slide roller. My thinking is to go from where the picture frame molding is connected to the aluminum edge on the inside. So that I screw into aluminum on each side. I’m thinking that the little thicker 3/16 would make up for and softness.

This is really a fix so we can keep traveling and then get floor replaced at a later date.

[Clayduster71]

Full-Time Seneca,

We welded the aluminum plate to the square tubing. We also inserted additional square tubing above the rollers.

I have been thinking about this since the other day when you proposed changing out the floor without taking out the slide. The one primary issue I figured is removing the long flush mounted bolts that bolt the floor to the walls. But this does not need to be done. They should be screwed flush to the metal already. Just go over them with the metal. If they are protruding, you could always drill a relief hole for the head in the aluminum. I think it CAN be done. Take all the wood off the underside. Remove all the mounting screws totally EXCEPT the big ones attaching the floor to the side walls.

If you take all the flange screws from the schwintek you can actually jack the whole thing up a inch or so I believe to help get the metal underneath. I would pre-plan screw placement and countersink the screw heads in the aluminum plate and use flush fitting machine screws. I would place flush fitting screws as close to the motorhome exterior walls as you can and there just wont be any on the tube that runs on the inside. This shouldn't matter. I would also put screws in the cross members.

If your floor thickness is a little different then don't use the same screw holes in the surround on the schwintek that attaches to the motorhome. Take all the screws out of the surround and split the difference between the holes and drill news ones in the surround. Let the slide sit in the hole under its own weight. Use self taping screws and attach the surround using the new holes to the motorhome wall. Fill the old holes with black silicon.

I think it can be done. Take pictures.

[Fulltime Seneca]

So I cannot get any indoor spots right now to work on it and been raining like crazy here. Mine is not real bad. The wood is just bad on each end and sold across the main part of slide.

So I am thinking to just replace the plastic rollers strips with 3/16 aluminum. Will but it up to the side where the schwintek corner comes to. Then go the whole depth of the slide so that I can screw it into the front back and one side of the aluminum frame. Then the center on just make it wider.

I feel like this will allow me to get by for a little while. We were not having any issues on how the slide was working. But if it keeps smashing in that lauan we would.

Do you see any issues replacing the plastic with 3/16? I already bought it today. So I hope that it being a tiny bit thicker then the old plastic won’t hurt.

[Fulltime Seneca]

So if you look at ed4sters post. Look at photo 6. I would do the same but a wider piece that goes over to the edge next to the schwintek mount.

[ed4ster]

When I installed the 1/8" inch plates there was very little room to lift the slide due to the schwintek tracks/gears as Alan says. Even lifting the slide ever so carefully, I had to work at getting the plates in place. I think the added coverage of the 3/16" plate to the outer edges fwd and aft would be a plus, then you could seal it to prevent water intrusion.

Ed

[Fulltime Seneca]

Just to give a quick update. I ended up taking the plastic sheets out under rollers. I was able to add 3/16 aluminum under each one front to back of the slide.

Slide works great now. Only issue I have run into now. I haven’t been in rain for months. Now I noticed that both side of the slide leak into the little gutters on the inside and spill onto the floor. I never noticed this before.

Think I saw a post somewhere about water pulling here before. So if anyone has had this issue and fixed let me know.

Not sure how to post photos in here since it wants a link.