Seneca "wired for solar"

[Harbour35]

I have a 2018 Seneca with the factory installed solar prep. This includes the junction box on the roof and the wiring to the storage box with the inverter.

Does anyone have info on the type of connector to be used to connect the panel to the roof junction box. I would prefer to purchase a panel with the connector already installed but I am seeing MC3 and MC4 connectors.

I am going to contact Jayco tech but if anyone has hands on info it would be great.

[MD3]

I went with GoPower panels from Amazon.
Since it is a GoPower pre wired system is had the correct connections but I'm not sure what those connections are.
When I called GoPower they were super helpful even though I didn't order parts from them.


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[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by MD3

I went with GoPower panels from Amazon.
Since it is a GoPower pre wired system is had the correct connections but I'm not sure what those connections are.
When I called GoPower they were super helpful even though I didn't order parts from them.


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Do you have any pictures of your installation? Where did you mount the controller? How did you mount the panels? Getting ready to do this myself.

[Harbour35]

I put one 100w flex panel on the roof and connected it to the factory roof mounted junction box w/MC4 connectors that came on the panel. Used the 3M tape to secure to the roof.

The wiring goes to the storage box just behind the slide out battery tray (2018 Seneca 37TS) for convenience I put the controller in that box and the wiring to the batteries was short and easy. The factory wiring from the roof is quite long and it may be feasible to go over to the pass side and up into the interior and locate the panel where the rest of the gauges/stitches are located. I may try to do this at a later date. I used 10ga stranded wire to minimize current loss.

[Fire_Instructor]

Do not put your controller where it's convenient to monitor (it really needs little monitoring). Put it AS CLOSE to your batteries as absolutely possible, without being in the same compartment. Extend the 8 gauge wire from the roof, as needed to get to the battery. You are pulling a higher voltage, but less amps from the roof to the converter. The converter converts this to 13.3+/- at higher amperage to the batteries. The further distance between the converter and the battery, and an undersized cable set, will greatly reduce the effectiveness of the solar array and the converter.

Most good converters have an optional remote display panel that you can mount inside your unit if you want to monitor what the controller and your system are doing.

[MD3]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Do you have any pictures of your installation? Where did you mount the controller? How did you mount the panels? Getting ready to do this myself.

I do not have any pictures right now.

I read numerous ways to mount solar panels... I decided to call the company and ask. They suggested (and I went with there suggestion) to use the screws they provided and screw directly into the roof. I also applied roof sealant under and around the brackets. The sealant obviously keeps the water out and will aid the screws holding the panel down. I had bought 3M vhb tape but decided against using it.

The controller is mounted in the compartment right next to the batteries where the factory mounting sticker directed and wires from the solar prep kit were.
I did buy the Go Power mounting box for the controller. Made it a cleaner install for the controller.

Go Power controller also can charge a second bank of batteries (didn’t know this at first). I ended up wiring in the chassis batteries to the controller also.
Solar now keeps both battery banks charged with priority going to battery bank 1 (house batteries).

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[GeorgeM]

Originally Posted by MD3

I do not have any pictures right now.

I read numerous ways to mount solar panels... I decided to call the company and ask. They suggested (and I went with there suggestion) to use the screws they provided and screw directly into the roof. I also applied roof sealant under and around the brackets. The sealant obviously keeps the water out and will aid the screws holding the panel down. I had bought 3M vhb tape but decided against using it.

The controller is mounted in the compartment right next to the batteries where the factory mounting sticker directed and wires from the solar prep kit were.
I did buy the Go Power mounting box for the controller. Made it a cleaner install for the controller.

Go Power controller also can charge a second bank of batteries (didn’t know this at first). I ended up wiring in the chassis batteries to the controller also.
Solar now keeps both battery banks charged with priority going to battery bank 1 (house batteries).

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What were reasons for not using the 3m VHB?

Can you provide the specific parts or kit from GoPower that you used?

I have a 2019 Seneca 37fs and it sounds like for solar I would need the solar panels and charge controller and nothing more to add solar power to the Seneca.

Would you agree? I was not sure about the a charge controller being needed (thinking one might be included in factory function / setup)

[MD3]

The roof is textured on mine. I didn’t think the VHB tape would hold as secure on a textured surface as it would on two smooth surfaces.
I used the screws that came with the panels and used self leveling lap sealant under and on top of the brackets with the screws. Seems to be holding without issue.

The RV has wires running from the roof to the bay.... that is it. Everything else is needed for solar.

I ordered the 2 below. The entire kit is used, everything except all the wire. I did use some of the wire to run from the controller to the RV battery bank and from the controller to the chassis battery bank.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the expansion kit here :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also ordered a box to mount the controller in for inside the bay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



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[Seek and Enjoy]

Originally Posted by JimL

Correction - wiring diagrams I have from factory indicate these are 8 gauge wires. I have wiring diagrams, roof layout (framing and backing), etc. if you are interested. - probably easier to email so provide a contact if you would like me to send what I have.

This information would be very valuable to me as I am researching adding solar to our new 37TS. Will that 8 gauge wire handle a 1000W setup?
Please email to shawnfierro@gmail.com