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02-03-2021, 07:06 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,086
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Super C owners new or used.
Lots of new owners our there so I thought I would post this information up. You should be able to register new or used units as far as I know. There may transferring involved if you have bought a used unit and it is already registered...i am not sure.
You can register with DTNA Connect which is a Daimler Chassis owners website which has all kinds of information based on you last 6 digits of you VIN. It has info on your complete vehicle specs, vehicle literature, warranty info, parts lookup, wiring diagrams and more for the chassis itself.
You can also register with Cummins QuickServe which is based off of your engine serial number located on the valve cover back by the cab firewall. You can lookup your complete engine data plate, parts, campaigns, trp's realls and engine codes. You can also register your generator serial number and access info about it.
Both of these are totally free to register for.
DTNA Registration Page
https://dtnacontent-dtna.prd.freight...questForm.html
Cummins QuickServe Registration page
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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02-06-2021, 05:54 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 26
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Thanks! Will do
Mike
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02-09-2021, 09:41 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 92
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Rustynuts,
As the "man for all seasons", I need your expertise.
We bought a 2018 Seneca from a private seller in Florida, spent a week in florida on our shakedown cruise and just came home to freezing temps in Indiana. The bumpy section of I65 in Ky shook our large bfast booth valence right off the wall. The two blinds are actually mounted on the valence which adds considerable weight. this baby was poorly mounted to the wall with just two little fasteners! Secondarily, the night blind needed its spring tightend, since the blind wouldn't retract. So that's another issue I have to research. But the bigger issue involves the freezing temps and its effect on the main door latch. We left the main coach entry door open tonight as we made many trips into the house unloading our "stuff". When I went to shut the door, it banged off the coach side of the door frame. Those two galvanized plates had slightly shrunk and the two studs on the door just banged into them. I took a large screwdriver and pried them out enough to push the door shut for the night. How do you remove those two galvanized plates? Removing the 2 screws did nothing.
Your thoughts on any of this would be appreciated.
Damian Neeld
317-710-6228
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02-10-2021, 12:16 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Crestview
Posts: 96
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Door frame Shrinkage
I have the same issue with my door not wanting to latch in cold weather, or when my coach isn’t quite level. The door will shut just fine during the day when the sun is hitting it; but come dark and the cold sets in it’s almost impossible to shut and a bear to open in the mornings from the inside when trying to get out. Anyone else experience this?
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02-10-2021, 12:59 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,086
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So what I found the issue is with these entry doors is it looks to me like they install them and screw them tight on the hinge side which leaves a gap on the latch side. Then they install 2 smaller screws (pic 1) that flex the frame and latch striker away from the door latch and the 2 pins in the door. This causes the back side of the heads on the pins to rub on the back side of latch striker plate. What I did was to remove the trim on the inside of the entry door, then remove the 2 small screws that are in the frame to the wall. If you look, you can probably see where the frame is bent and pulled in, then I took a small prybar and straightened the frame the best I could. Then I measured and cut a plywood shim to slide in and then put the screws back through the frame into the wall, the shim keep the screws from pulling the frame and striker away from the door. Then I sealed with silicone all the way around the striker area between the frame and wall as this was a terrible air gap leak. Before I put the inside trim back on, I took 1/2” foam insulating rod and tucked in all the way around the door frame to seal and insulate it. Then polish the face of the beveled latch on the door, I use a maroon scotch rite and then lube everything up good with 3in1 DRY luck lube. I keep the latch polished (better than in the pic I posted) and spray with lube about once a month or when it starts sticking a little......after doing this, I can easily close the door with one finger.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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02-10-2021, 01:06 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,086
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We had the same valance over the dinette come off on ours. There were only 2 small clips with one screw in the wall and one in the valance and the screws pulled out of the wall. I remounted it by using same clips I have used forever in the cabinet shop, they are called Bennet Clip and are 1” x 1”x 3”. I mounted 4 clips and used a truss head screw and pit them in with wood glue on the threads which acts like loctite for wood With 4 clips, that give you 8 screws in the wall and 8 in the valance making it very solid. If you can’t find any clips like this, they are easily made with some angle aluminum cut and drilled. As far as the shades, ours are all good so I haven’t had to mess with them, so no help there.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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02-10-2021, 01:32 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Crestview
Posts: 96
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Thanks for that information; I’ll be tackling that very soon. After Reading some of your posts I went and check my bedroom slide flooring on my 37FS and sure enough rain water was finding its way in. Even after caulking the picture frame and all other seams on the slide rails I was still getting water on the underside of the slide towards the back. The wood deteriorated to the point were I had to remove the picture frame and all the other crap under the slide to repair the damage. Hopefully resealing everything this time will be a success. I’m glad the deterioration wasn’t as bad as the other post I saw on here the entire slide was removed to do the repair. Obviously there should be either steel or aluminum framing under the roller slides; bad design from the get go!
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02-11-2021, 09:50 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 92
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thanks for the info and the picture of the angle brackets already mounted on the wall. I get it. I was wondering how to handle the weight of remounting the valence. With those brackets already mounted, you just set the valence on top of them, and then attach with screws! Thanks.
I spoke with Jayco, and there's no way to "rewind" the springs on those shades. If they come loose, you need to replace. I needed to talk with the parts department to see if they're still available, and I got tired of holding.
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02-11-2021, 09:54 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 92
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My only confusion is where exactly you put the shim? You show the two small screws behind the galvanized striker plates. Did you remove trim on that side of the frame most to the inside of the door frame? I'm not standing in front of the coach, so I'm just going from memory. I took a large screwdriver and bent the striker plates back inward so the two studs could pass behind them and close the door. I do like your idea of sealing the airleak around that area. thanks in advance for your help.
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02-11-2021, 11:13 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dneeld52
My only confusion is where exactly you put the shim? You show the two small screws behind the galvanized striker plates. Did you remove trim on that side of the frame most to the inside of the door frame? I'm not standing in front of the coach, so I'm just going from memory. I took a large screwdriver and bent the striker plates back inward so the two studs could pass behind them and close the door. I do like your idea of sealing the airleak around that area. thanks in advance for your help.
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You pull the plastic trim off around the inside of the door frame. Then on the inside you will see the gap behind the latch area and you will see how the 2 smaller screws pull and distort the frame. I probably had to bend the frame back out about 1/4” then I measured for the shim. Here is another pic that might show it better.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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02-12-2021, 05:26 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 92
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Whistling Mirrors
Any solutions to the severe whistling mirrors? I tried taping between the large and small mirrors , but to no avail. I saw a Volvo semi-tractor that had a one-piece black shell that covered both mirrors.
Has anyone found something like this? Any solutions?
Damian Neeld
Carmel, IN
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02-13-2021, 10:11 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: City
Posts: 66
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Have you plugged/covered the holes where the mirror mount attaches to cab/door? If you search the subject you should find that plugs from "Hill"(i think) at Lowes will fit nicely into them. Solved most of my wind noise whistle. Others have issue with Antenna being noisy as well.
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