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Old 03-04-2024, 03:05 PM   #1
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Water heater inop

I have a 2019 Seneca. The hot water heater works perfect in gas mode. In electric mode it's totally inop. I had a service tec come out and he changed the water heating element. A day later called him again as it was not working. He came out we changed the two thermostats. A day later is was determined the electric mode was still inop. We changed the circuit board that day. It's still not working.
--- i think the heating element we put is is bad. He tells me
he can check the heating element from the front with his electrical tester. The heating element is accessed from the rear of the hot water heater, it's a real pain to get to. -——- My question can you test that heating element from the front of the water heater? I called Dometic, their guy said he didn't know the answer. I think the only way to test it is with an ohms meter. ———my unit is a Dometic, GC 10A-4E, 10 gallon.
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Old 03-04-2024, 04:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mnwelsh View Post
I have a 2019 Seneca. The hot water heater works perfect in gas mode. In electric mode it's totally inop. I had a service tec come out and he changed the water heating element. A day later called him again as it was not working. He came out we changed the two thermostats. A day later is was determined the electric mode was still inop. We changed the circuit board that day. It's still not working.
--- i think the heating element we put is is bad. He tells me
he can check the heating element from the front with his electrical tester. The heating element is accessed from the rear of the hot water heater, it's a real pain to get to. -——- My question can you test that heating element from the front of the water heater? I called Dometic, their guy said he didn't know the answer. I think the only way to test it is with an ohms meter. ———my unit is a Dometic, GC 10A-4E, 10 gallon.
Units like that have a relay in the rear of the heater that turns the AC power on and off to the element itself. The relay is controlled from the control board outside, but the AC voltage never comes out to the front. The relay is switched on and off by 12-volts DC from the board. I have heard of a number of those relays go bad, several even burned up because of poor 120-volt AC connections at the relay.

I'm afraid if your tech didn't access the back to troubleshoot the relay and the new element when it didn't work, it wasn't a complete diagnosis.
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Old 03-04-2024, 05:34 PM   #3
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To confirm your statement though, yes, you have to access the element directly and OHM test it to know if it failed. No wires can be connected when you are performing the test.
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Old 03-04-2024, 07:20 PM   #4
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Thanks, I will give that info to the repair guy. I appreciate it.
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Old 03-05-2024, 09:09 AM   #5
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I think you need a different repair guy! He is shooting the parts cannon at it because he is guessing. Dumb questions. Is it plugged in? Is the electric switch turned on at the control panel inside the rv? Is the circuit breaker tripped in the electrical panel? The board and controls are 12VDC and the only thing 120v does is the heating element.
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Old 03-05-2024, 09:14 AM   #6
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I had to replace that relay in the back of the water heater. If your water heater is on the left side of the rig, aft of the generator, tell your repair guy to be prepared to unbolt the trailer hitch from the frame just to be able to see inside the water heater enclosure. Another thing I found inside there was the wooden “table” that holds up the water tank, was laying on the propane hose, almost pinched closed.
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Old 03-09-2024, 10:43 PM   #7
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I have the same unit 2019 TS and had the same issue. Mine was a broken ground stud on the back of the hot water tank. With a mirror and looking in the hole they give you I could see the wire hanging. I had to remove the whole unit, not fun. While I had it out I replaced everything, relay, element plus the one way valve, welded the stud back on and insulated the pex lines. Never want to be back there for awhile.
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Old 03-18-2024, 08:29 AM   #8
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Technician should have performed two tests. Ohm the electric heating element then amp the element under load to verify current going through element verifying the whole electric circuit operating properly. If no current flowing further troubleshooting required. Of course with the tank full of water
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