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Old 06-18-2021, 02:43 PM   #21
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Your battery will last significantly less than half of its normal lifespan when you discharge it that low. You shouldn't discharge a battery below about 50%. At 11.3 V, your battery is 90% discharged and you're giving it an accelerated death. Here is some good reading, in case you wanted to know more.
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Old 06-18-2021, 02:52 PM   #22
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Your battery will last significantly less than half of its normal lifespan when you discharge it that low. You shouldn't discharge a battery below about 50%. At 11.3 V, your battery is 90% discharged and you're giving it an accelerated death. Here is some good reading, in case you wanted to know more.
I know that but the only other thing we use is the lights. No microwave no AC ( they are ac only anyway). No television. So why did Jayco put this dang fridge in? I read that it will draw down a battery within four hours! Should we just cut the wiring and use it as a huge cooler? Or can we get an after market propane adaptation? Geez the trailer has 2 20 lb tanks of propane. We use 1 every six weeks!
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Old 06-18-2021, 08:53 PM   #23
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Kim, that battery that you have is probably a cheap group 24 dual purpose battery that you have pretty much killed. Sure it will recharge but it’s capacity is way down from when it was new. Here are the three easiest recommendations that I have. I am assuming that you want the new batteries in the same place as the current battery is. A picture of the battery box you have with the lid off would go a long way! Here is what I have from the most powerful to the least:
1. Sams club EGC2 6volt, 230 AH at 20 amps, 448 minutes reserve capacity.
$125 each and you need a extra box and a jumper cable to hook up in series.
2. Sams club GC2 6volt, 215 AH at 20 amps, 395 minutes reserve capacity.
$89 each and you need the jumper cable also. This is a popular choice around here, but in your case with limited Sun I would get the EGC2’s.
3. If you want to run 12 volt batteries then Interstate has a new type of flooded cell group 24. You would need 2 of them. 24M-EFB. 154 AH at 20amps, 280 minutes of reserve capacity. All the specs that I have given you are for the total of both batteries put together.
The possible current battery could only be 55AH and 140 minutes of reserve capacity! See the difference!
I would not recommend that you buy a duplicate of the battery that you have and run 2 of them because it has been so beat up that they won’t really match. Jay
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Old 06-19-2021, 03:58 AM   #24
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Not sure how One Noght would have killed the battery
Sams Club?? Nearest one is a three hour drive and we ergo are not members
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:19 AM   #25
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Costco has similar batteries if you are a member there. In Ohio we also have a store chain called Batteries + Bulbs. Interstate Batteries also has dealers here. I’ve never been to Maine (would like to see it someday), so I really don’t know the store possibilities that are there. I guess the main point would be that you need more battery capacity. The 2 6volt solution is the most cost effective solution, which is why it is so popular. By going with 2 6volt batteries connected in series, your camper would have over 3 times the battery capacity that you do now, assuming that there is only 1 typical group 24 battery on the tongue of the camper now. Just to confirm what you had posted earlier, when these 12volt refrigerators first came out, I called Everchill, and they confirmed that their refrigerator could drain a single group 24 battery in as little as 4 hours, depending on conditions. Jay
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Old 06-19-2021, 09:35 AM   #26
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Costco has similar batteries if you are a member there. In Ohio we also have a store chain called Batteries + Bulbs. Interstate Batteries also has dealers here. I’ve never been to Maine (would like to see it someday), so I really don’t know the store possibilities that are there. I guess the main point would be that you need more battery capacity. The 2 6volt solution is the most cost effective solution, which is why it is so popular. By going with 2 6volt batteries connected in series, your camper would have over 3 times the battery capacity that you do now, assuming that there is only 1 typical group 24 battery on the tongue of the camper now. Just to confirm what you had posted earlier, when these 12volt refrigerators first came out, I called Everchill, and they confirmed that their refrigerator could drain a single group 24 battery in as little as 4 hours, depending on conditions. Jay
Costco is 140 miles away ( there are none in Maine) but hey we drove that to get a Covid shot. Twice.

We have very few shopping centers.. Three in the state. When you come everything is harder to get. Our brand new truck blew a radiator in Greenville. It took three days to get the proper radiator.
There is only one group 24 battery.. When the camper finally gets home ( the TV is the one that we were waiting for the radiator ) I can better answer your questions. I am not evading ; the unit just is not here!

I love the sentence depending on conditions. It was 30 percent humidity and a high of 55. I can only imagine the drain if it were 90 and humid!.

We do have to do something.. I bookmarked this thread.. Thanks for all your help!
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Old 07-11-2021, 02:09 AM   #27
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I would think if you park your trailer in a storage yard it would be safer with 12 volt to run the fridge before you leave to cool it down. Can’t or not supposed to do that with propane.
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Old 07-11-2021, 06:08 AM   #28
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I would think if you park your trailer in a storage yard it would be safer with 12 volt to run the fridge before you leave to cool it down. Can’t or not supposed to do that with propane.
Most fridges that run on propane also run on electric.I would think most people don't load their RV in a storage yard though . However no one here uses a storage yard. We just keep em at home and you can plug into an outlet.
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Old 07-11-2021, 07:35 AM   #29
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If you don't want to go "all in" on lithium batteries, Bandit12 (retired NAPA Auto Parts employee) posted a possible NAPA Auto Parts battery upgrade in this thread: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ies-85572.html
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:17 AM   #30
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Here's the thing- We're in Nebraska now, headed West and South to HOT weather. We will almost always be connected to the truck or shore power.
We recently put both kinds of fans on our absorption fridge. It gets very cold, top and bottom, when the outside air is in the 80's. Yesterday, we went through a day of 100 degree temps, and the freezer and fridge are both out of the "safe" range on our thermometer. Not acceptable.

Then I read about crystals possibly forming and permanently clogging the evaporator, tubes and also read that absorption refrigerators "just don't work" when it's 90 degrees plus. And then sometimes you need to remove them from the wall and turn them upside down for days or weeks to "burp" them. Again- what's the point of having a refrigerator that only cools when it's cool outside?

Really seriously looking at dropping the money for a 12V with a real compressor- -------IF they really work.
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Old 07-23-2021, 11:37 AM   #31
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What's the advantage of having a 12-volt? Cheaper for Jayco is my idea.

Or perhaps for those of use who are not always in a camp ground, they run on battery and propane. Trying to boondock with a residential means a lot of generator use or spoiled food.
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Old 07-23-2021, 01:18 PM   #32
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12v fridge

Just picked ours up after warranty replacement.haven’t tried it yet but tech said freezer was down to 9 degrees after installation fingers crossed
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Old 07-23-2021, 01:58 PM   #33
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Here's the thing- We're in Nebraska now, headed West and South to HOT weather. We will almost always be connected to the truck or shore power.
We recently put both kinds of fans on our absorption fridge. It gets very cold, top and bottom, when the outside air is in the 80's. Yesterday, we went through a day of 100 degree temps, and the freezer and fridge are both out of the "safe" range on our thermometer. Not acceptable.

Then I read about crystals possibly forming and permanently clogging the evaporator, tubes and also read that absorption refrigerators "just don't work" when it's 90 degrees plus. And then sometimes you need to remove them from the wall and turn them upside down for days or weeks to "burp" them. Again- what's the point of having a refrigerator that only cools when it's cool outside?

Really seriously looking at dropping the money for a 12V with a real compressor- -------IF they really work.
Our absorption fridge has never had an issue getting cold here in Florida, either on electric or propane. Having said that, I would trade it for an efficient 12v compressor fridge for sure. Being able to have it running while towing is a huge plus, we also rarely camp without power and water. I do recall reading an article detailing the differences between the two fridges, when all is said and done the 12v compressor fridge is more efficient and consistent given it is working correctly that is.
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