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04-13-2022, 09:10 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,768
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Before blocking off the frig, I would strongly recommend reading the installation manual for your Frig. A friend recently replaced his frig with a new one. The instructions clearly stated the sides of the frig needed to have a certain amount of air gap. I am sure the sides of the frig act as a heatsink.
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04-13-2022, 09:38 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 1,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Before blocking off the frig, I would strongly recommend reading the installation manual for your Frig. A friend recently replaced his frig with a new one. The instructions clearly stated the sides of the frig needed to have a certain amount of air gap. I am sure the sides of the frig act as a heatsink.
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Yes. I want a 12 volt someday, but do not want the heat venting into the trailer. They need to tell us how we can transfer the heat outside with the openings we already have.
__________________
Ford F250 6.2 Gas, 4X4, Short Bed, Companion Hitch
2019 Jayco 28.5 RSTS, MorRyde orbital pinbox.
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10-09-2022, 02:09 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Doing a little more research before I’m about to put in my 12 V fridge. I came across this thread. I was wondering, has anyone swapped a three-way with a 12 V fridgeand sealed up all vents? I read most people are sealing the outside side vent but I haven’t read anything about sealing the roofing. I’m thinking of leaving my roof vent open. I have two exhaust fans at the top to remove the heat from the old LP system that I use to have, perhaps it would be advantageous to keep the fans and the roof vented.?
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10-10-2022, 06:45 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Sodus
Posts: 24
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12 Volt fridge venting
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
Doing a little more research before I’m about to put in my 12 V fridge. I came across this thread. I was wondering, has anyone swapped a three-way with a 12 V fridgeand sealed up all vents? I read most people are sealing the outside side vent but I haven’t read anything about sealing the roofing. I’m thinking of leaving my roof vent open. I have two exhaust fans at the top to remove the heat from the old LP system that I use to have, perhaps it would be advantageous to keep the fans and the roof vented.?
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My trailer came with the 12volt fridge and the rear vent was open. After reviewing the installation instructions, I sealed it off but made it accessible in case I needed to get to the wiring. The top was never vented from the factory.
We have used it all season with the fridge heat vented into the living space with no issues. I don’t think it would hurt to vent the top, but you won’t need the fans. You might want to put a screen up there to keep the insects out. As a downside, if you camp in cold weather, you now have a path for furnace heat to escape which will make the furnace would harder.
My choice would be to seal off both vents as long as you have the required air gaps around the 12 volt fridge. I used Luan plywood and a bead of caulk to seal the inside of my rear vent.
__________________
Keithb
2022 Eagle HT 284BHOK
2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.0L
Blue Ox SwayPro WDH
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10-10-2022, 07:17 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Holland
Posts: 354
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Believe Camco makes a mesh screen to cover the big slots in the fridge vent. I made them from some aluminum mesh I had.
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10-10-2022, 07:24 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Before blocking off the frig, I would strongly recommend reading the installation manual for your Frig. A friend recently replaced his frig with a new one. The instructions clearly stated the sides of the frig needed to have a certain amount of air gap. I am sure the sides of the frig act as a heatsink.
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Thanks, yes I have, it’s an inch on both sides, and 2 inches on the back. I found that some people mistakenly left the old insulation around the cut out, which is a no-no.
I want to do as much research and take in as much advice as possible before I do the installation, this is not a cheap endeavor!
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10-10-2022, 07:33 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keithb
My trailer came with the 12volt fridge and the rear vent was open. After reviewing the installation instructions, I sealed it off but made it accessible in case I needed to get to the wiring. The top was never vented from the factory.
We have used it all season with the fridge heat vented into the living space with no issues. I don’t think it would hurt to vent the top, but you won’t need the fans. You might want to put a screen up there to keep the insects out. As a downside, if you camp in cold weather, you now have a path for furnace heat to escape which will make the furnace would harder.
My choice would be to seal off both vents as long as you have the required air gaps around the 12 volt fridge. I used Luan plywood and a bead of caulk to seal the inside of my rear vent.
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Thanks, I know, it’s like a double edge sword keeping the existing refrigerator roof vent open the way it i nows. It does have the mesh on top, my fans sit up on top of the mesh. I do camp in the cold winter, but very seldom, (just on my return trips back to South Florida from northeast Pennsylvania around Nov/Dec), .
At this point I think I’m just going to seal the side, and leave the top open, not removing the fans because I have no reason to. In only in really hot weather I would put the fans on anyway. I’ll just see how it goes!?
Thank you.
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10-10-2022, 07:34 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forester2
Believe Camco makes a mesh screen to cover the big slots in the fridge vent. I made them from some aluminum mesh I had.
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Yes, I have them on all of my fence and exhausts.
Thanks
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10-10-2022, 08:16 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: Holland
Posts: 354
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I know its naive to assume the factory knows what it's doing, but on new units with 12 volt fridge they eliminated the roof vent and left the back wall vent so my gut would be to utilize the bottom one. Does that vent serve any function for input air for the furnace? Just wondering.
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10-10-2022, 08:29 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forester2
I know its naive to assume the factory knows what it's doing, but on new units with 12 volt fridge they eliminated the roof vent and left the back wall vent so my gut would be to utilize the bottom one. Does that vent serve any function for input air for the furnace? Just wondering.
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The furnace is completely separate and has its own intake & exhaust. I don’t know about keeping the side vent, sometimes I go through blue beacon truck wash, the guys there love to spray water straight out onto and into my vents. So eliminating that side vent would eliminate the chances of water getting to the back of the new refrigerator as well as stopping it from seeping into the RV. Coupled with that and the fact that heat rises, I think I’m better off keeping the top vent. The way the top vent is designed it is very hard to spray water up underneath it.
But you’re right the way the manufacturers are building these things, it makes you wonder why they are Designed they way they are.
Thanks for your input, greatly appreciated.
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10-10-2022, 08:36 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forester2
I know its naive to assume the factory knows what it's doing, but on new units with 12 volt fridge they eliminated the roof vent and left the back wall vent so my gut would be to utilize the bottom one. Does that vent serve any function for input air for the furnace? Just wondering.
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They are doing that so the fridge can be serviced. That was the problem with the early years and the residential fridge. The only way you could get to the back of the fridge was to pull it out. The roof vent is not needed, however some were delivered with both due to a last minute switch from gas/elec to residential style (12v or 120v) because of the supply issues.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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10-10-2022, 08:43 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: SE ND
Posts: 10
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My 2022 with the 12V Norcold does not have either vent, FYI.
__________________
2016 F-250 6.2L Lariat FX-4 CCSB
2022(early) Jay Flight 28BHS
WDH Eaz-Lift ReCurve R3
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10-10-2022, 09:14 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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So between grumpy and codegaard post, I’m going to “ASSUME”, (as Felix would say), neither the top vent nor the side wall vent is needed for ventilation, (only service access), on the new 12V fridge models.
Im trying to consider which condition could be worse for us, having the heat come in during a hot day off the refrigerators compressor and heat sink, or having the cold air come in from the top vent on the very few days that I do winter camp? Wish the top vent had some type of flap. It would be great to open and close it as conditions dictate!
I’m definitely going to seal off the vents on the side wall, while still keeping it removable for access, but like I said earlier, I’ll test the waters with the top vent and see how she goes. Besides the air flow up there, that vent provides a great wire chase from the roof!
Anyone with any further thoughts on this or wiring straight to the battery?
Thanks everyone!
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10-10-2022, 09:24 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codegaard
My 2022 with the 12V Norcold does not have either vent, FYI.
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I wonder if that is being done since they are easier to remove? I know on the FW and MH(Senecas) they finally started adding the side access panels for service on the residential fridge.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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10-10-2022, 09:30 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy
I wonder if that is being done since they are easier to remove? I know on the FW and MH(Senecas) they finally started adding the side access panels for service on the residential fridge.
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Well it certainly saves them on labor and materials by eliminating both, not to mention one less hole in the roof to worry about!
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10-10-2022, 09:38 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnynorthland
Well it certainly saves them on labor and materials by eliminating both, not to mention one less hole in the roof to worry about!
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The roof vent I can understand, there is no need for service or venting.
__________________
DISNEY LOVERS
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10-10-2022, 09:46 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Out there somewhere
Posts: 1,616
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Giving further thought to hooking up my refrigerator straight to my house battery, (with an on off switch, fuse etc..), other than when the coach is completely off, isn’t my refrigerator going to run off the converter/charger or alternator or the generator or shore power when I’m using these as such? SoIn essence, would it make sense to just have the refrigerator running off the battery if the RV is parked and I don’t need anything else to be turned on? Wouldn’t this be the only draw on my battery?
Not trying to convince myself or anyone else, just thinking into it deeper, (while I do laundry, lol)
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