12 Volt fridge requires outside vent?

[Keithb]

I just picked up my 2022 Eagle HT 284BHOK trailer. It has the Dometic DMC 4101 10 cu ft dc refrigerator. I noticed the traditional refrigerator vent on the outside of the trailer, and observed it was not fitting correctly.
Removing the vent cover allowed me to see the factory had placed a piece of paneling behind the vent and sealed the bottom with black caulk. The top and sides were open and I can see wiring. (Romex)
I pulled out the manual for the fridge and it states the enclosure should not have any holes in it except for ventilation.
The gaps I’m seeing look like a welcome invitation to bees and any other flying insect since the outside vent is the one made for LP refrigerators, with lots of air flow. Unlike the LP fridge, the internal compartment behind the vent is not sealed.
Anyone else have a Dometic dc refrigerator with a traditional vent?
I’m inclined to think the factory goofed on this one. One more question, does the dc refrigerator exchange it’s heated air with internal trailer air (like the one in my kitchen) or external air via the rear vent?
Thanks for your help and opinions.
Keith

[goducks]

Do you still have a roof vent? Makes me wonder if Jayco just stuck 12V fridges in 120V trailers for whatever reason. I've seen some with the vents and some without the vents.
FWIW all 120V/Propane fridges have an open area behind the vent for repair purposes. No different than with a 12V fridge. Bugs get in the 120V/Propane one as well.
You could email Jayco and get the right answer.

[Grumpaw374]

Our new Jay Feather 24RL was special ordered with a 12 volt fridge, and has no roof vent. It does have a side/wall vent but when the vent is removed there is a piece of thin plywood blocking access to the fridge back.
I would surmise that the side walls are pre made/cut for the vent, but the roof vent, at least on a special order, is omitted.
I still plan on sealing the inside of the wall vent panel with some mesh for bug prevention.

[Keithb]

Originally Posted by goducks

Do you still have a roof vent? Makes me wonder if Jayco just stuck 12V fridges in 120V trailers for whatever reason. I've seen some with the vents and some without the vents.
FWIW all 120V/Propane fridges have an open area behind the vent for repair purposes. No different than with a 12V fridge. Bugs get in the 120V/Propane one as well.
You could email Jayco and get the right answer.

No vent on the roof, glad they omitted that! I’m thinking the outside vent should be blocked off, the same as folks do when replacing the Norcold with a residential in motor homes. Good suggestion to email Jayco, I’m new to the brand and have no experience with their level of support.
Thanks for your reply!

[Keithb]

Originally Posted by Grumpaw374

Our new Jay Feather 24RL was special ordered with a 12 volt fridge, and has no roof vent. It does have a side/wall vent but when the vent is removed there is a piece of thin plywood blocking access to the fridge back.
I would surmise that the side walls are pre made/cut for the vent, but the roof vent, at least on a special order, is omitted.
I still plan on sealing the inside of the wall vent panel with some mesh for bug prevention.

Yes, we have the same thin plywood panel. I don’t know what it’s function is. I agree that applying mesh or tape to the openings on the outside panel is needed to keep the insects out. I read another post where folks had the cold outside air rushing out around the 12v fridge into the camper. They had stuffed weatherstripping between the fridge and cabinet. Seems like the cabinet should not be exposed to outside air.

[Grumpaw374]

When we took delivery, I just had a chance to take the vent off and saw the plywood panel, but haven't had a chance to see what openings were left....lousy weather. But in next day or so its clearing and warming up, so I can see what is needed to seal off any gaps.
From what I have read and been told, the 12 volt fridge acts and operates just like a home unit, meaning no heat buildup that needs outside venting, so I would assume it is OK to seal any gaps (other more knowledgeable members feel free to correct if wrong) that would let outside air in.
Like the OP, this is my first experience with a 12 volt unit.

[Marcm157]

My 2022 33RBTS has the 12 Volt Fridge and does not have a roof or Side vents at all.

[RedHorse1]

Apparently vents are not required for a 12V fridge.

https://www.dometic.com/externalasse...4081_81429.pdf

[billcf7]

You would think all thats required is a service door like that of rvs with res. fridges

[goducks]

Hopefully Dometic doesn't require removal like a Furrion does to replace a blown fuse. Having the 120V style exterior vent would be the fix. Not sure how Dometics are fused.

[Keithb]

I always thought one of those Harbor Freight digital inspection cameras would be useful. This question about the fridge gave me a reason to buy one!
In the snow and cold today I found there is an air gap all around the outside of the fridge. That is good, it provides a place for heat to dissipate.
Looking in from outside, all that space around the fridge box is directly accessible from the outside vent panel.
So on the next day the weather is tolerable I’m going to remove the plywood panel and see what can be done. It may be as simple as closing off the inside of the vent openings on the vent panel with eterna-bond tape, or adding bug screens as another poster suggested.

[skids]

It is hard to believe that there is no vent for the fridge. Refrigerators remove heat from the inside and move it to the outside of the fridge. I have heard that some depend on the “chimney effect” (natural draft ventilation) to move the heat out. The fridge in your house has the cooling coils underneath but the heat is released to the rest of the house.

[Grumpaw374]

I took the vent cover off and found some small gaps in the plywood cover that should allow more than enough flow for any heat to dissipate.
Just going to cover the inside of the vent cover with some fine mesh I have on hand to prevent the buggies.
I don't believe the heat omitted by a 12 volt compressor fridge comes anywhere near the amount produced by the older gas/electric fridge, thus elimiting the need for a roof vent.
Even the heat produced by our home fridge/freezer is minimal.

[16WhiteColly]

I bought a sheet of this aluminum sheet and covered all my exterior vents and openings from the inside and riveted it in as a bug screen.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Buil...7015/202525469

[bdreinv]

Side vent on are fiver, added cooling fan big improvement for a few dollar investment!

[Skip76]

We’ve got the same 12volt frig and a vent on the back side of the RV. It’s new and the vent cover is warped and does not close on the side to prevent water entry. Taped the sides for the shakedown trip and all was OK. Talked with Jayco and sent pictures of the vent and the cheap ply cauked/glued at the bottom of the opening and leaning against the frig back at the top of the cheap ply. Customer service said it was a baffle but didn’t appear to be installed properly. It’s at CW and should be back soon but haven’t heard on a fix if any to the “baffle”.

[Keithb]

Originally Posted by Skip76

We’ve got the same 12volt frig and a vent on the back side of the RV. It’s new and the vent cover is warped and does not close on the side to prevent water entry. Taped the sides for the shakedown trip and all was OK. Talked with Jayco and sent pictures of the vent and the cheap ply cauked/glued at the bottom of the opening and leaning against the frig back at the top of the cheap ply. Customer service said it was a baffle but didn’t appear to be installed properly. It’s at CW and should be back soon but haven’t heard on a fix if any to the “baffle”.

Skip,
Yes, we have the same issue. Yesterday it was super bright sunlight on the side of the trailer so I went inside and looked at the gap beside the fridge. Loads of bright sunshine coming through, which means bees, bugs, daubers, cold air, and hot air all moving freely into the camper.
It’s a design failure from Jayco. I need to remove that plywood panel and have a look, then call customer service. As a stopgap measure I’m going to tape something over the inside of the vent to keep the critters out. Let us know how you make out.
Keith

[Big1]

I would show you some pics on how I did mines but I don't have them on my laptop but I did remove that wood panel on up top on the outside vent cover and replace it with some aluminum flashing up top and on the sides. I also added four pc fans, two at the bottom to push the hot air up and two pc fan up top to push the hot air out, sorry I don't have any pics on my laptop.

[Keithb]

Originally Posted by Skip76

We’ve got the same 12volt frig and a vent on the back side of the RV. It’s new and the vent cover is warped and does not close on the side to prevent water entry. Taped the sides for the shakedown trip and all was OK. Talked with Jayco and sent pictures of the vent and the cheap ply cauked/glued at the bottom of the opening and leaning against the frig back at the top of the cheap ply. Customer service said it was a baffle but didn’t appear to be installed properly. It’s at CW and should be back soon but haven’t heard on a fix if any to the “baffle”.

I called Jayco customer service today. They asked me to send pictures which I have done. So now it’s wait and see. I will block the opening temporarily to keep the bugs out.
Keith

[Keithb]

Jayco service was very courteous and promptly wrote back informing me that the piece of paneling is a baffle, is designed to be that way, and any Jayco dealer can make adjustments to the vent cover, if required.
So I’m on my own here, and will provide an update to this forum when I get this opening sealed up.