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07-12-2016, 07:07 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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12 volt question...
We purchased a used 2002 Jayco travel trailer after over 2 years of not having a camper...we sure missed this lifestyle.
Naturally when buying something used we buy the old owners problems. So far we had to have the seal around the slide replaced, replaced one of the springs in the awning, had all the roof seams resealed, etc...
The problem the perplexes me the most is the 12 volt system. I upgraded the battery to a new deep cycle unit. When the rig is plugged in to the 120 volt system all the 12 volt related stuff works great. When I unplug the coach all the 12 volt dependent stuff dies. No slide, no lights, no fridge or anything else. I checked and all the 12 volt fuses are okay. I have tried just about everything to figure out what the problem is with no luck. Does anyone have any ideas please???
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07-12-2016, 07:24 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Southwest Ohio
Posts: 281
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Check for a fuse directly between the battery feed and the trailer.
Mine is visible behind the battery box just before the wire harness enters the underbelly.
__________________
Gary & Angela - Kilo & Sierra (K9s) Southwest Ohio
2018 Cheverolet Silverado 2500HD 6.0 4WD | 2016 White Hawk 27DSLR
2018 - 20 Nights - 163 miles.
Modifications list at https://www.stormpod.org
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07-12-2016, 07:36 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Clearwater, FL area
Posts: 5,196
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I am taking it for granted that your battery connections are WHITE (Negative) and BLACK (Positive).
- Make sure that the NEGATIVE battery terminal's cable goes down to the frame. Also, make sure that the cable connect to the frame is clean and tight.
- Does your TT have a 30 Amp main fuse by the battery? IF so is the fuse holder clean or corroded? While checking the fuse holder out, and your shore power connected, with your volt meter, and the fuse out, check to see if you have 12VDC on each of the connectors in the fuse holder. You should have voltages on each connector, the connector going toward the TT will have 12VDC from your TT's battery charge controller. On the fuse holder connector toward the battery should have 12VDC from the battery.
- When you say you checked the fuses, did you use a volt/ohm meter to check them? You would be surprised at how many members said that it looked good, but when they checked them with a meter they were bad.
- If you do not have 12VDC on the TT side of the fuse holder your problem is between there and the TT's charge controller.
- Let us know the mfr and model of your TT's battery charge controller as it may have a reverse polarity fuse that has blown.
Don
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07-12-2016, 07:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Eagle River, AK
Posts: 900
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Along with the great advice already given; while you are checking fuses, pull the panel and check for fuses in the charge controller/converter itself. Don't ask me how, but when these blow, it is possible for everything to work while plugged in and nothing to work when unplugged and on battery only.
__________________
We are just a humble drinking couple with a hunting and camping problem.
2018 Jayco Octane 260
2019 Dodge Ram 2500, 6.4 Hemi, 8 spd A/T
2021 Argo Aurora 8x8/2008 Arctic Cat M1000 SnoPro
Previous: Komfort 5er/Jamboree MH/Lance Cabover/Jayco Whitehawk 25BHS TT
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07-12-2016, 09:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,736
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Good advise above. Check to make sure the battery is hooked up correctly. Even if it was hooked up backwards even for a moment, you will blow the reverse polarity fuse. That fuse is in the main 12V fuse panel. Also check, for an inline fuse, near the battery.
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07-13-2016, 04:49 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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I know I hooked the new battery correctly when I installed it but I don't know if the people who we purchased the TT from did as they told us they installed their battery just before we arrived when we came to look it over.
I did check the main 30amp fuse numerous times and its still in good shape. I was unaware of any other fuses however. One thing I noticed was that when the coach is plugged in the 45amp converter makes all kinds of noise. I'm thinking of replacing it just to quite it down. I replaced, with new, all the 15amp fuses in the control board so I know they are good.
I'll do the tests that Don mentioned in his posts. Thanks for the ideas.
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07-13-2016, 05:54 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: King George
Posts: 2,761
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What I do to be absolutely sure is to look for the word NEG or the Symbol '-' stamped on the 12V battery case and hand trace the NEGATIVE TERMINAL cable and make sure this is the one going to ground... Cables get reversed very easy with the RV world using the same battery terminal size for both polarities. I have purchased the same model replacement battery and found the manufacturer has moved the terminals locations which makes the cable wrong polarity to fit... Anyone not being observant will hook these up backwards everytime...
You see either WHITE and BLACK cables being used as well as RED AND BLACK cables.
In the RV WORLD WHITE is always GROUND and BLACK is HOT +12VDC
In the AUTOMOTIVE WORLD BLACK is always GROUND and RED is HOT +12VDC
If these wirings get REVERSED than FUSES get blown between the battery terminals and the 12VDC Power Distribution Panel. Most of the time the REVERSE POLARITY fuses are on the 12VDC Power Distribution Panel but in some cases these may be located on the Converter/charger unit itself...
Even if you accidentally spark the cables when hooking up may blow these fuses...
Another walk around test I do alot is measure across my battery terminals with a multimeter and I will read 12.6-7VDC if the batteries are full charged and no Shore Power is turned 'ON'. Then I will turn 'ON' Shore Power and this DC VOLTAGE across the Battery Terminals will jump up to 13.6VDC or higher depending what mode the Converter/Charger starts up when first turned 'ON'. This tells me all is working normal and all fuses etc are OK...
Roy Ken
__________________
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS
"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
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07-13-2016, 04:17 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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Great info...thank you. I've been building cars and other modes of transportation for over 50 years but its always nice to be reminded of this kind of thing. I will recheck my polarity just to be sure. Thanks again!
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07-15-2016, 01:52 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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Well I went and checked my battery and its hooked up as it should be. I ordered a new 45 amp converter today as the one in my coach screams when its plugged in. I suppose its just worn out and wants to retire. I have not had time to do all the great suggestions to my 12 volt problem but I'm hoping to get some time on Saturday. I'll keep you all posted....
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07-15-2016, 02:40 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 2,210
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All good advice above. Grounds and fuses are usually to blame. Did you put a volt meter on the panel to confirm you have 12 v there? If you pull the 4 screws holding the control panel in you can get to the main connections from the battery.
From there back it's pretty simple and limited in what it could be from there.
Good luck and hope you find your issue.
__________________
2014 375 BHFS Eagle Premier
2014 Ram 3500 Longhorn DRW CC
6.7 CTD, Aisin, 4.10's
Yamaha EF3000iSEB
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07-15-2016, 02:58 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackMroz
Well I went and checked my battery and its hooked up as it should be. I ordered a new 45 amp converter today as the one in my coach screams when its plugged in. I suppose its just worn out and wants to retire. I have not had time to do all the great suggestions to my 12 volt problem but I'm hoping to get some time on Saturday. I'll keep you all posted....
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It is probably a good idea to replace it if it is loud. Mine is pretty much silent, except for a fan the runs sometimes. But even then, it is not very loud.
Once you have the new one installed. Leave the trailer unplugged for a minute and measure the voltage on the DC wires attached to the convertor. Fully charged you should see 12.7V or so. If you read significantly less that this, then either your batteries are not charged or you have a bad connection to the batteries. Take another measurement directly on the battery terminals, they should be very close to the same reading as you got on the converter.
Now, plug in the trailer to AC. You should see the voltage rise to something > 13V, depending on the charge state of the battery. After it charges overnight you should read >=13.2V on both the battery and the connections to the converter.
__________________
2015 Jayco 27RLS
2015 Ford F250 6.7PSD
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07-19-2016, 05:11 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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I received my new converter in yesterdays mail but have had no time to install it or check what Don had suggested. I will do a complete check when I install it...hopefully before the weekend...
Again, Thanks for all the suggestions and tips...
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07-20-2016, 06:20 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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Well I installed the new converter this evening. Still not getting 12V when I unplug the shore power so I'm assuming I have a broken wire between the battery and the 12V fuse center. At this point with us leaving on a camping vacation soon I'm just going to live with this problem until we get back. I realize the fridge won't be working while we're traveling but with us only traveling around 3 hours from home I'm sure everything will stay cold and frozen. I'm gonna then take the coach to my local dealer and let him find and fix the problem.
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07-20-2016, 07:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Eagle River, AK
Posts: 900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackMroz
Well I installed the new converter this evening. Still not getting 12V when I unplug the shore power so I'm assuming I have a broken wire between the battery and the 12V fuse center. At this point with us leaving on a camping vacation soon I'm just going to live with this problem until we get back. I realize the fridge won't be working while we're traveling but with us only traveling around 3 hours from home I'm sure everything will stay cold and frozen. I'm gonna then take the coach to my local dealer and let him find and fix the problem.
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If you're only traveling three hours, you wont have any problem at all with things staying cold in the fridge. Assuming it is pre-chilled and loaded when you pull out.
In fact everything should be good 6 -8 hours without the fridge running. The longest we have gone was on a drive from home down to the lower 48, pulled an 11 hour day without the fridge running and everything was still cool in the fridge and everything in the freezer was still frozen.
__________________
We are just a humble drinking couple with a hunting and camping problem.
2018 Jayco Octane 260
2019 Dodge Ram 2500, 6.4 Hemi, 8 spd A/T
2021 Argo Aurora 8x8/2008 Arctic Cat M1000 SnoPro
Previous: Komfort 5er/Jamboree MH/Lance Cabover/Jayco Whitehawk 25BHS TT
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07-20-2016, 08:13 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Hamilton/Cincinnati
Posts: 264
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Just throwing it out there but is the battery itself bad?? Check it and make sure it is not defective.
__________________
2014 Jayflight Swift 264BH
2015 Ford F150 XLT 4x4 SCrew 3.5 EcoBoost Max Tow
Equalizer 10K
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07-21-2016, 04:54 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mosinee, WI.
Posts: 79
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Battery is brand new Duracell from our local Sam's Club. It has a 03/16 date code so its not old stock. I made contact with my local RV dealer and have an appointment to drop off my coach on the 7th of August so I'm hopin they get this last glitch out of this used trailer. I'm still in the black when it comes to what we paid compared to blue book value so I'm still in love with the unit...
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07-21-2016, 05:37 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Orlando
Posts: 516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang65
I am taking it for granted that your battery connections are WHITE (Negative) and BLACK (Positive).
- Make sure that the NEGATIVE battery terminal's cable goes down to the frame. Also, make sure that the cable connect to the frame is clean and tight.
- Does your TT have a 30 Amp main fuse by the battery? IF so is the fuse holder clean or corroded? While checking the fuse holder out, and your shore power connected, with your volt meter, and the fuse out, check to see if you have 12VDC on each of the connectors in the fuse holder. You should have voltages on each connector, the connector going toward the TT will have 12VDC from your TT's battery charge controller. On the fuse holder connector toward the battery should have 12VDC from the battery.
- When you say you checked the fuses, did you use a volt/ohm meter to check them? You would be surprised at how many members said that it looked good, but when they checked them with a meter they were bad.
- If you do not have 12VDC on the TT side of the fuse holder your problem is between there and the TT's charge controller.
- Let us know the mfr and model of your TT's battery charge controller as it may have a reverse polarity fuse that has blown.
Don
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The 2017 jayco I got finally has the red positive & black negative battery cables now.
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07-21-2016, 06:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Orange County
Posts: 644
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I'll go out on a limb and predict it's something with the ground cable from the battery to the frame. This is so often a problem that is not only overlooked, but it causes really weird problems. And it's usually very easy to fix. Sometimes, all it takes is a broken cable or some corrosion.....
__________________
2006 Jayco Seneca 34SS
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Toad
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07-21-2016, 06:29 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mid-Mi
Posts: 1,492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustdevil
I'll go out on a limb and predict it's something with the ground cable from the battery to the frame. This is so often a problem that is not only overlooked, but it causes really weird problems. And it's usually very easy to fix. Sometimes, all it takes is a broken cable or some corrosion.....
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Can't hurt to check!!!
Also, know that you may not have trailer brakes in an emergency if the trailer becomes unhooked from the tv. The battery is what powers the breaks in that type of event.
Good luck finding the issue! And safe travels!!!
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07-21-2016, 06:46 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fairview, Oregon
Posts: 450
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X2 with a broken cable or some corrosion..... Usually on the frame side of the cable. Be sure both ends are clean and tight. Make sure there is no "green" between the connector and the cable itself.
__________________
John & Pam Moore
Fairview, Oregon
2017 Jayco 321RSTS
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD
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