2 Blow Outs in 24 Hours Single Axle Woes

[Screwby]

I run mine at 65 just like it says. Great tires so far.

[RogerR]

You need to check the rims to make sure they are rated for whatever size you upgrade to that has a higher pressure.

You will not gain much from going up 2 grades (C to E). One grade will add all the extra load capacity that you will ever need as you axel and frame are now the limits. Also, the much higher pressure for an E will give your trailer a harsh ride. Always run at cold max pressure to get the best.

And of course, go to Endurance to get the speed rating.

Bearings and brakes, check them regularly.

[silverta16]

I replaced all the bearings, seals, and brake assemblies this weekend. Also added bearing buddies as my axle is the never lube without the drilled spindles with grease fittings. I learned my lesson and won't be so careless again.

[Murff]

One thing not mentioned in this thread; how much weight are you hauling?

Overloaded tires will blowout.

Murff

[silverta16]

Well I checked the date codes on the old tires and they were dated 2010, not sure how they ended up on my 2013 camper but I bought it used. That explains that. The spare that blew had the same date also.

I didn't have anything in the camper but 1 backpack and a small toolbox and half a tank of fresh water.

[Jagiven]

Old tires bring bad luck

I would question adding Bearing Buddies. My dad did that many years ago and pushed grease into the brakes

[silverta16]

Well I replaced the seal with the double lip seal which I assume doubles the chances that doesn't happen, and the bearing buddies when properly lubed only create 3 psi of pressure so that shouldn't blow the seal. Worse case scenario my brakes get grease in them but that won't leave me on the side of the road.

[ifallsguy]

Here is Goodyear's Load/Inflation chart.

Endurance is the first block.

[skids]

For the weight of the 195RB, 60 psi is to recommended pressure.

[Marmot]

As others have said, you do not reduce your tire air pressure when the weather is hot. Run the pressure your owners manual states or the pressure stamped on the tire if no manual. Tire pressure must be checked first thing in the morning before driving and before the sun has heated the tires. An hour of sun shining on the tires will not give a correct “cold” reading. It could be several pounds higher. 65 is the max speed for most trailer tires. I recommend replacing Chinese tires at 5 years regardless of mileage.

[Homersimpson]

I switched to Goodyear Endurance load range D, also one size wider, on my single axle if not the spare. I also added a second spare tire holder and carry an extra for longer trips. Kept one of the old tires for the extra one. Keep the speed under 70 and check pressures often.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by silverta16

I have a 184 BH single axle it's a 2014 so the tires were dated, had a blow out late at night changed that with the new spare. Next morning after buying another spare(glad I did that) I checked the cold PSI pressure and they were 50lbs which is what the tire said. Made it 3 miles and had another blow out on the new spare. It was a 97 degree day. Camper is garage kept and the spare was new and always covered. Guess I'm asking what tire pressure do you guys run? And if it's 50psi cold and it's a 100 degree day do you lower your pressure to compensate? I assume when hot the tires increase in pressure so should a guy start about 40psi?

As an actual tire design engineer, I can say there have been many good posts to this thread.

Key points Do not bleed off air pressure when tires are hot. "Cold inflation means when tires have not been driven on or in direct Sunlight for the previous two hours.


Tire age. Most people find that 3 to 5 year is about all you can reasonably expect in trailer application.


Load Range. Going from LR-C to LR-D will NOT get you any improvement if you don't run the LR-D inflation as it is the air pressure, not the tire that supports the load.


You need to review THIS post on why tires fail to have a better understanding of the "Why". If you don't know "Why" your corrective action may not actually address the underlying cause.



As a minimum, get on a truck scale at least once to learn how much "Reserve Load" you have. Tire capacity should be at least 115% of the measured load.



Use metal valve stems along with metal valve caps. Standard "snap-In" rubber valves are only rated 65 psi and even with cold tire inflation of 50, you can get to 65 hot. Metal caps with "O" rings will help retain air if the valve core sticks open which can happen any time you add or check air pressure.


Lot more to think about but this is a start.


BTW do you have any clear, sharp relatively close pictures of the failures? I may be able to offer an informed opinion on the possible cause.

[silverta16]

I know now they were 9 year old tires that's what caused it. The inflation was checked 10 minutes before the last tire blew.

I just got all new valve stems not metal ones I might need to replace them didn't know that. Nobody at the tire shops said anything.

[ARMYG]

When I first bought my north point, I was having tire problems due to the learning curve of new RV status. One of my wheels broke all the 8 studs and went flying into the open field on the side of the road. That was my fauld for using a steel rim and not checking the torque o the lug nuts. Lots of work to get back on the road. Had a few flats on new tires. But the best investment I made over the years was a tire monitoring system. I use ST tires and have learned that 55 miles per hour is the safest speed without overheating or over pressuring the tires. The monitor for this system sits on the left side of the dash and reports pressure and temperature. I slow down when I see the temps/pressure get high and have never had a tire failure after I started to monitor these. My conservative driving habits may not appeal to all but I prefer to get there safely instead of earlier.

[RetiredOne]

Just wondering, since I've never had to change tires on a trailer, what's the difference in cost from the basic economy trailer tire compared to the better, name brand, higher speed/load rated tire, for each one?

[RogerR]

$ 40 to 75 for Chineese tires endurance, same size maybe $105

Plus mounting, stems, balance if you get it and shop fees, etc.

Worth the difference to me!

[ARMYG]

On the road I purchased a tire for less than $100 and ones with aluminum rims for $212 from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Etrailer is another great place to buy tires and rims

[backpack1953]

I have Goodyear Endurance tires on my FW and they are doing great. I did have to have two replaced on the front axle because of the axle being bad. The reason I mention this is that the ones that came with the FW were rated at 65 mph but the new ones I got are rated at 70 mph. I checked into it and Goodyear has increased them to 70.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by RogerR

$ 40 to 75 for Chineese tires endurance, same size maybe $105

Plus mounting, stems, balance if you get it and shop fees, etc.

Worth the difference to me!

I kinda figured it would be in that range, and I agree, spending the difference should be a no brainer. Based on the cost of the rigs, the time investment, etc.. I'd be putting on the best tire and the one that gave me the widest latitude on safety with pressures, speeds and loads.

To save a few bucks and put on sub-standard tires that barely make the cut, then worry or have to drive slower, because you're afraid of a blow-out, doesn't make sense to me.

[AnacortesArmyGuy]

Quick question - does anyone rotate their spare into those on the ground?