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Old 11-12-2010, 11:45 PM   #1
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2010 Jayco 314BDS Braking Issues

Hello everyone. I am new to this forum but this is my second Jayco I have owned. Unfortunatley, this unit has been riddled with problems from day one when i picked it up at Campers Barn in Kingston NY in Feburary 2010. The major issue that I am still having problems with is the brakes. This is now the 5th time the brakes have been worked on/repaired or replaced. The symptoms are usually a sqeauling or hanging up causing that rim to become unbeleivable hot and one time failure almost causing an accident. Now, my truck(2009 Nissan Titan Pro 4X long bed) has been ruled out of the equation as far as creating this problem. Everything has now been replaced on both sides including the wiring from the harness. Picking up in next week or so to test drive again and rule my vehicle out again. Has anyone had problems with their brakes? Campers Barn has said this are a larger size made by Dexter and they have had problems with them. I have contacted Jayco numerous times requesting the warranty be extended or unit be exchanged. But my request has landed on deaf ears as Tony of Jayco is not interested in customer service. I will post the long list of other things that have had to be repaired but am more concerned with the braking issue and what my next steps should be if the issue is not resolved. I have already posted at planetfeedback.com and contacted the Better Business Burea. Thanks in advance for all of your help. I love camping with my family and every trip this year has resulted in a trip to the dealership afterwards. Not what you expect from a brand new unit!
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:32 AM   #2
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hi lou i also have a 2004 titan and i tow a 2006 jflight 31bhds with no problems.i even towed up and back down a 5 mile steep grade.it sounds to me like your brakes are braking all the time.is it possible they are adjusted to tight?
i dont know if that helps any but just wanted to share that i pull a heavy camper too with no problem
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:17 AM   #3
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Your post (plea for assistance) reminded my of my previous '93 19ft Prowler TT. For some reason, its electric brakes were "very" unstable. They would work great one mile, only partial work the next mile, have wire faults the next mile, then back to working great again. But most of the time, they were "unstable" and could no longer be trusted. If wondering, I know it was electrical but could prove it 100% of the time. And NOT under any warranty, I had no others to investigate / repair on my behalf. So, I fixed (upgraded) it myself.

For my previous 19ft TT, I did the following:

Removed its factory 12 gauge 12V wiring. It was old and my "gut" kept telling me it wasn't right. re: A crack or pinch somewhere in its wire. I snipped and removed the single brake wire within its axle tubes as well. Thus, removing all factory linear wire runs. I then installed "thicker" 10 gauge duplex wiring in a STAR Configuration. One wire for live and other wire for ground. The braking power and "stability" of before and after was amazing. To me, all trailer wiring needs to be replaced with minimum 10 gauge duplex wire and installed in a STAR configuration "as minimum build code".

For more details surf:
Before - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ing-Linear.jpg
After - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...iring-Star.jpg
Secured wire run (on my utility trailer) - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1429.jpg
Wire support (on my utility trailer) - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1433.jpg

If your larger TT was giving me brake problems and I wasn't sure if electrical was the `root cause` of the problem, I'd do the same wiring replacement (upgrade) to it as well. re: Replace factory linear 10 gauge wiring with 10 gauge wiring in a STAR configuration design. This can be done my installing 3/4" PVC tubing under the trailer (using galvanized strapping and screwing upwards into steel cross beams - that also hold is under belly material in place), install a PVC junction box in middle of trailer (between both axles) and run PVC piping outwards - to each wheel hub. If wondering, this is how installed the new PVC piping system under my "spray foamed" 2006 Jayco 29FBS.

For pictures, surf:
Front of trailer - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0698.jpg (note: Turn picture sideways)
PVC tubing - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg
PVC junction box - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0688.jpg

This spring, I plan to install its duplex 10 gauge wiring within its PVC and connect to each wheel hub. And, install "loose hanging" support chains at each wheel hub as well. If wondering, the chains will stop any branches or ground garbage from accidentally ripping out its brake wiring. Much more secure then an unprotected wire drops.

If you plan to replace / upgrade your TT's underbelly brake wiring, do implement the above. The results on my previous 19ft TT was amazing. Well worth the minor cost and effort....

Good luck....

.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:47 AM   #4
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I don't think TTs are covered under the Lemon Law, but they are covered under the
Magnuson-Moss warranty act. If you have continuous problems and are totally unhappy
I would look into that.
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:44 AM   #5
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We actually had some probs with our brakes (major squeeling all the time). Jayco finally ruled out our new fangled F-150 with the new integrated brake control as the culprit. They decided we needed a new brake assembly. Still had some squeeling so they told us to keep the spring and back of wheel spray greased. It still squeels, so we will have to have it looked at again. I think the brake thing is pretty much the only thing that really bugs me about our Jayco.

Thanks for the info on Magnuson-Moss warranty act, Musclecarman
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert421960 View Post
hi lou i also have a 2004 titan and i tow a 2006 jflight 31bhds with no problems.i even towed up and back down a 5 mile steep grade.it sounds to me like your brakes are braking all the time.is it possible they are adjusted to tight?
i dont know if that helps any but just wanted to share that i pull a heavy camper too with no problem
That was Tony from Jayco excuse was user error. I do heating ventialtion and air conditioning and I am very familiar with wiring. The gain on my reese brakeman was only outputting 3v out of 12v. Brakes were still locking up. The dealer just adjusted them saying they were to tight. But I was only having problems with driver front that was locking up, on this latest brake saga. Other 3 tires were fine.
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
Your post (plea for assistance) reminded my of my previous '93 19ft Prowler TT. For some reason, its electric brakes were "very" unstable. They would work great one mile, only partial work the next mile, have wire faults the next mile, then back to working great again. But most of the time, they were "unstable" and could no longer be trusted. If wondering, I know it was electrical but could prove it 100% of the time. And NOT under any warranty, I had no others to investigate / repair on my behalf. So, I fixed (upgraded) it myself.

For my previous 19ft TT, I did the following:

Removed its factory 12 gauge 12V wiring. It was old and my "gut" kept telling me it wasn't right. re: A crack or pinch somewhere in its wire. I snipped and removed the single brake wire within its axle tubes as well. Thus, removing all factory linear wire runs. I then installed "thicker" 10 gauge duplex wiring in a STAR Configuration. One wire for live and other wire for ground. The braking power and "stability" of before and after was amazing. To me, all trailer wiring needs to be replaced with minimum 10 gauge duplex wire and installed in a STAR configuration "as minimum build code".

For more details surf:
Before - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ing-Linear.jpg
After - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...iring-Star.jpg
Secured wire run (on my utility trailer) - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1429.jpg
Wire support (on my utility trailer) - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/100_1433.jpg

If your larger TT was giving me brake problems and I wasn't sure if electrical was the `root cause` of the problem, I'd do the same wiring replacement (upgrade) to it as well. re: Replace factory linear 10 gauge wiring with 10 gauge wiring in a STAR configuration design. This can be done my installing 3/4" PVC tubing under the trailer (using galvanized strapping and screwing upwards into steel cross beams - that also hold is under belly material in place), install a PVC junction box in middle of trailer (between both axles) and run PVC piping outwards - to each wheel hub. If wondering, this is how installed the new PVC piping system under my "spray foamed" 2006 Jayco 29FBS.

For pictures, surf:
Front of trailer - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0698.jpg (note: Turn picture sideways)
PVC tubing - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0700.jpg
PVC junction box - http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0688.jpg

This spring, I plan to install its duplex 10 gauge wiring within its PVC and connect to each wheel hub. And, install "loose hanging" support chains at each wheel hub as well. If wondering, the chains will stop any branches or ground garbage from accidentally ripping out its brake wiring. Much more secure then an unprotected wire drops.

If you plan to replace / upgrade your TT's underbelly brake wiring, do implement the above. The results on my previous 19ft TT was amazing. Well worth the minor cost and effort....

Good luck....

.
awesome info. I will inquire on how they wired the brakes as they did run a new line.
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Old 11-13-2010, 07:34 PM   #8
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Unless specified, me thinks they would have replaced factory brake wiring with "factory linear 10 gauge wiring with 10 gauge" - as shown within: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...ing-Linear.jpg

If wondering, this Linear default works but if wanting to build "better then factory", then STAR Design is much better. re: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...iring-Star.jpg And, STAR Design creates less fail points as well... One thing I love about STAR Design is equal distribution of 12V current down each wire - assuming each Master Box to Wheel Hub cable is approx same length. Linear cabling never has equal distribution of 12V current.

Hope this helps as well...

.
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:14 AM   #9
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Lou, Since you bought at Campers Barn I assume you may be near by. There is a mobile RV center I have used with great results. He is in Gardiner and makes house calls. They did brake work on my 2 month old camper and Jayco warrantied it. They are Jayco certified and handled all billing. When I upgraded my TV and TT they were the ones who set up reese dual cam, installed my P-3 controller and all the upgrades I wanted. I have had them upgrade the suspension on my TV as well. Their name is Len-Rich mobile RV (845) 725-7624 I have no affiliation with them, just a happy customer. Check out their reviews.http://rvservicereviews.com/
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Old 11-16-2010, 08:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmc616 View Post
Lou, Since you bought at Campers Barn I assume you may be near by. There is a mobile RV center I have used with great results. He is in Gardiner and makes house calls. They did brake work on my 2 month old camper and Jayco warrantied it. They are Jayco certified and handled all billing. When I upgraded my TV and TT they were the ones who set up reese dual cam, installed my P-3 controller and all the upgrades I wanted. I have had them upgrade the suspension on my TV as well. Their name is Len-Rich mobile RV (845) 725-7624 I have no affiliation with them, just a happy customer. Check out their reviews.http://rvservicereviews.com/
Thanks, I do live near by. I live in the montgomery area and maybe these guys could be great 2nd opinion. Thank you so much for the reference. Nice to know there are still people out there you can trust.
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