2012 Jayflight suspension question

Ranger431 · 05-01-2012, 07:11 PM

We've got a deposit on a new 2012 32TSBH to replace our 32BHDS that was stolen. Our driveway has a bit of a slope and I am a little concerned about backing in due to the loss of clearance from the slide out bike rack. Does anyone know if there is anything that can be done to "lift" the TT a few more inches? I have heard in the past you could "flip" the axle - can this still be done with the suspension on the 2012 models? Any other options?

jwstewar · 05-02-2012, 05:37 AM

For backing into the driveway, drop the weight distribution bars and let the back end of the vehicle "sag." That is what I do with Mom's camper. I back it out with our Suburban and its soft suspension to keep the back of the camper from dragging on the crown of the road. My truck doesn't squat enough with her 30' camper to keep it from dragging, but the 'burb and its soft coil spring ride does. So I just usually tow it with the burb. Once out on the road, I will then hook the weight bars up. For as tall as these campers already sit, I wouldn't want to take them any higher. YMMV....

Ranger431 · 05-02-2012, 06:08 AM

That's an interesting idea. I will be towing the new one with either a 3P or Hensley Arrow, so it won't have bars, but I can definitely adjust the WD. I don't know how much sag I can get on my truck though, the RAS has really beefed up the back end.

Thanks for the idea, definitely better than backing in regular. Having a sloped driveway is not ideal. I kind of miss my double wide, flat driveway on a "T" intersection in Murfreesboro - it was so easy to back into, plus I could put the slides out and still fit 3 cars into the driveway side by side.

eric2500hd · 05-02-2012, 06:07 PM

I have a 32bhds which is the same length as your 32bhts. I also have a sloped driveway with a road that cambers toward my drive way which makes a V. When I brought my camper home the first time about a month ago my rear stabilizer jacks scraped the road. I bought these http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/d...y&ITEM=5704208 and mounted on the back of the frame rail. No more dragging. Casters worked perfectly and kept my rear jacks for scrapping. I welded the included plates to the bottom of the frame and then bolted the wheels to that. I also added 2 2 inch receivers to the outside of each frame to build a rack of the back that will hold my 3 burner camp stove. That is another post though for the mod section.

I don't have the slide out rack like you but you still should be able to fabricate something to mount the casters to the frame and still use the bike rack. Maybe a 2"x2" square tube welded between the frame rails in the back and then mount the casters inside the frame rails to the 2x2. Just an idea.

Rustic Eagle · 05-03-2012, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger431

snip......I have heard in the past you could "flip" the axle - can this still be done with the suspension on the 2012 models? Any other options?

Ranger431,

I believe the leaf springs on your TT already sit on top of the axles do to the size of the slides, giving you the best height advantage.

Do to the design of the 3P and Hensley hitch your TT ball coupler is attached a little further back from the TV rear axle than a standard WDH, so taking the tension out of the hitch may/may not be an issue (hitch hitting driveway) when backing up a slope....., guess it depends on your particular driveway.

As Eric2500hd mentioned, adding casters may be a consideration. Don't know if this type of mod could be used by Jayco/Lippert as the root cause of an associated problem, thus denying a warranty service claim......, just thinking out loud here.

Is there a possibility of laying some boards in the valley of the road/driveway transition to decrease the amount of "dip" at this point?

Bob

Forgvn77 · 05-03-2012, 07:22 PM

The 32TSBH is already pretty high up and I'm guessing they have maximum clearance designed into it already. I wouldn't want it any higher than it already is since it might raise the CG high enough to become a potential problem. I agree with Rustic Eagle that modification of your terrain if possible would be a better bet.

29BHS ECO · 05-04-2012, 07:11 AM

ranger431-If you do as eric2500hd did check out the casters at HARBOR FREIGHT, they are a lot cheaper. Larry

eric2500hd · 05-04-2012, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19H F250

ranger431-If you do as eric2500hd did check out the casters at HARBOR FREIGHT, they are a lot cheaper. Larry

Good idea Larry. I checked at my local Harbor Freight though and they didn't have anything near heavy enough to handle a 32bhds or 32tsbh. I also checked at Tractor Supply. At both places the highest weight limit was something like 300-700 lbs apiece if I recall correctly. The casters I bought will hold 2500 lbs apiece and are sold cast iron wheels with a 1/4" urethane "tire". Between the 2 they will hold half the weight of a loaded 32bhds/tsbh, not that they will ever have to hold that much. I thought about trying the Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply casters but worried that the weight of the camper would bend them making them useless. I decided it was better in my case (although quite a bit more $$$$$$) to do it right the first time and not have to worry about it.

It would still be a good idea to check your local Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply or other harware store to see what other cheaper, feasable alternatives they may have. Just make sure they have solid metal wheels and not the rubber ones. The rubber ones will not be strong enough to handle the weight of the camper.

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