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Old 04-01-2014, 12:00 PM   #1
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2014 whitehawk 28dsbh issues

Just used our new trailer for the first time. Upon return we immediately had to replace the bathroom faucet as it had so little overhang into the sink it was almost unusable!

The other issue was at the dump station. Found that tp had built up in black tank due to very small opening to get to main area of tank and water. Tank flush system does not spray there. Had to bring hose into bathroom to spray down the toilet. Not impressed with tank design.

Anyone else having same issues or have suggestions?
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Old 04-01-2014, 01:54 PM   #2
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Hi Welcome to JOF...

Congrats on your new WhiteHawk !

Ya the faucet is small in the bathroom and it is on my to do list to replace one day. But it does the trick for now. Why they make them so small is beyond me.

The black tanks are finiky even with the back flush. We found that if you add a lot of water to your black tank before you dump it ( almost fill it ) it will help with taking most of the solids away in the first attempt when emptying. When I use the back flush I sometimes close the drain valve for a minute or so to fill up the tank a bit then open the drain and this seems to dislodge any tp etc. I do this a few times and it seems to work well for me.

Hope that helps a little.
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Old 04-01-2014, 02:25 PM   #3
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snip..... Found that tp had built up in black tank due to very small opening to get to main area of tank and water.....snip
Although not common, if the pipe from the toilet to the tank isn't cut to the proper length this can create some solid flow issues (BIL had this problem, pipe needed to be cut back). I would have your RV dealer check it out, and while he is doing that look at some of the new TT's toilets on his RV lot for any pipe differences (take a flashlight).

Also, confirm TP being used is compatible for RV black tank systems. Depending on 'ply' count of TP being used, a heavier ply TP may require plenty of water at initial flush.

Bob
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:56 PM   #4
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We swapped out the bathroom faucet as soon as I found out my man hands could mot get under the water flow w/o touching the bowl. Hers a pic of our mod. We have a 30DSRE & no black tank issues with thks model.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u5kwbsuhvm...w%20faucet.jpg
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
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We swapped out the bathroom faucet as soon as I found out my man hands could mot get under the water flow w/o touching the bowl. Hers a pic of our mod. We have a 30DSRE & no black tank issues with thks model.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u5kwbsuhvm...w%20faucet.jpg
Nice...where did you get the faucet assembly?
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:58 PM   #6
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Looks nice! I'll probably be doing the same when we pick up ours.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:39 PM   #7
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Recent thread on RV compatible toilet paper.......;

Refer to link in post #1: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=18490
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:32 PM   #8
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Yes! The bathroom faucet is really short. I'm able to wash my man hands but water gets everywhere. Every time someone washes, water gets all over the counter top because the faucet is so short. At least that why I think water is getting everywhere. I seem to be the only person who cares and the only person always mopping it up.

Guess I got some to do this weekend now.
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Old 04-01-2014, 10:54 PM   #9
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Picked up the faucet at Home Depot.
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:56 AM   #10
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Sorry to hear about the TP & faucet issues, but trust you had an enjoyable outing, anyway. I agree with what others have said about the TP - plenty of water in the tank is the key. As for the faucet, any 4" C.C. lavatory faucet will work, as long as the base will fit on the faucet deck of the sink. You may be able to move the faucet forward a little bit by simply loosening the mounting nuts (the large "disc" shaped nuts that hold the faucet to the sink), sliding the faucet forward a tad, then retightening the nuts. The holes in the sink are slightly larger that the water pipes, so you may be able to get as much a 1/4" more clearance.

Whether you move the faucet or replace it, things are pretty tight under the lav. You may want to purchase a "basin wrench" to make the job a little easier. A "basin wrench" has a spring-loaded "J" shaped head that swivels so you can use it one way for loosening, and the other for tightening nuts. Connected to the head is a long handle with a ''T" on the end for holding onto. You can pick one up (where you purchase your faucet) for about $12 - $18. You may only need it once or twice in your life, but it sure makes the job a whole lot easier! Oh, and make sure you shut off the city water or turn off your pump before you disconnect the water lines. As folks have said in other post on this site, "Don't ask me how I know"!

Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck & happy camping!
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:16 AM   #11
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Thanks for the suggestions on the black, guess just used to having a smaller tank and conserving water.

Next thing we discovered is that when the safety chains are crossed it causes the first link to be pinched against load hitch. The chains are connected to trailer too close to hitch. Is anyone else noticing this or have a solution?
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Old 04-02-2014, 09:38 AM   #12
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I have the problem with the left chain being unable to cross over and link to the tow vehicle. My solution is to attach the chains when I have lifted the trailer and TV at the time of attaching the weight distribution bars. It's the only time where the chains have the straightest shot to the TV. otherwise no attachment or removal possible.

The strange thing is that once it's attached, there is quite a bit of play so issue with tight turns. Just not enough to attach the S hook.
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:31 AM   #13
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snip..... Next thing we discovered is that when the safety chains are crossed it causes the first link to be pinched against load hitch......snip
This can happen, many times it has to do with the particular design of the TV's OEM receiver (i.e.;pin box length, location of safety chain hook attachment points, etc.).

If you don't have enough slack to attach them, and/or have proper slack during TV turns, I would have your RV dealership make the proper safety chain revisions (should be their responsibility).

Bob
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