2016 Jayflight 28 BHBE Elite - towing with an F150

[OhioRVMom]

currently a minimum of 3 adults (one larger) and 4 kids ranging in ages from 6 to 11

[SouthCo]

I am really happy to see honest answers from those who have / do tow with similar trucks. All to often you hear yep no problem but that is not reality. I agree with all who said too much trailer for the truck... Doesn't matter if you are an occasional camper or not... If your not happy with trailers that suit the truck than you need a bigger truck. It's smart that your researching before u buy...

[tylersdad]

Could be tough in the smaller unit. I can see why the 28 or 29 are so appealing. We were sort of in the same shoes as you. Our tow vehicle was underrated for what we really wanted in an RV. We wound up selling our tow vehicle and purchasing a new one for the same monthly payment. Not sure if that fits your circumstances.

I'd avoid over-towing though. It can be somewhat uncomfortable at times with a vehicle that is properly spec'd for the trailer. An overburdened vehicle would be more than uncomfortable.

[motorbreath]

Originally Posted by spoon059

I can tell you right now, those numbers are too low. Figure 12-15% tongue weight for a comfortable tow. The dry tongue weight is 12% of the dry trailer weight. I would bet you that your tongue weight will be very close to what DocBrown suggested. Its amazing how many things you take with you on trips... bikes, firewood, water, groceries, clothing, bedding, television, games, etc etc.

We just had a looooooong discussion about this exact issue in this thread,

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ght-29424.html

myself and several other owners of 28BHBEs who have gone to weigh scales to measure tongue weights. The results are that my base model 28BHBE seems to be on the low side at 800#, CamperBob is at 1000#, and NorthernJay is the heavyweight at 1200#. Note that NorthernJay has the Elite package and tows with fresh water tanks full (600+lb slightly in front of the axles).

As you can compute from Jayco's dry weights for the trailer, it is design for a 10% tongue weight. I have my WDH adjusted properly, which my dealer botched-up initially, and I am running with at least 11% tongue weight. Note that the largest storage area in the 28BHBE is under the queen bed in the front of the trailer, so it is easy to front-load and increase the tongue load substantially.

With all of that being said, I tow mine safely with a 2015 Sierra 1500 with a 1750lb payload and 9400lb tow rating. I mainly tow in Ontario and upstate New York, so there are hills but no mountains. I pull the trailer fine at 60mph (but never faster), but you do feel cross winds and I did switch to LT tires because the weak sidewalls on the P tires from the factory (why do they sell trucks with them?!).

[OhioRVMom]

if we were in a position to upgrade tow vehicle things would be different. we just bought a 2013 Ford 150 Super Crew 4x4 last year brand new. it was January 2014 and we bought one of the last 2013 units. We sprung for the 10 year bumper to bumper warranty and all service and maintenance coverage as well. we don't have to pay a penny for anything on the truck - we planned it to last us 10 years at least or longer. The idea of getting rid of it, after we have put so much into it is not appealing. we even have the loan set so it is paid of in 3 more years. If we had known about this last year, we'd have made a different decision on our tow vehicle, but nothing we can do about it now.

[tylersdad]

Yep. Totally get it. We bought a 2014 F-150 2 months before the 2016 came out. Needless to say, we got a great deal on it. Bought the 7-year bumper-to-bumper. We thought the car we bought in 2012 was going to last forever. Between some serious warranty issues (close to $8500 against our extended warranty in the last year alone) and wanting to tow more than 5500 lbs, we knew the old car--which wasn't that old!!!--had to go.

Best of luck whatever you all decide.

[SouthCo]

Originally Posted by motorbreath

We just had a looooooong discussion about this exact issue in this thread,

http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f7...ght-29424.html

myself and several other owners of 28BHBEs who have gone to weigh scales to measure tongue weights. The results are that my base model 28BHBE seems to be on the low side at 800#, CamperBob is at 1000#, and NorthernJay is the heavyweight at 1200#. Note that NorthernJay has the Elite package and tows with fresh water tanks full (600+lb slightly in front of the axles).

As you can compute from Jayco's dry weights for the trailer, it is design for a 10% tongue weight. I have my WDH adjusted properly, which my dealer botched-up initially, and I am running with at least 11% tongue weight. Note that the largest storage area in the 28BHBE is under the queen bed in the front of the trailer, so it is easy to front-load and increase the tongue load substantially.

With all of that being said, I tow mine safely with a 2015 Sierra 1500 with a 1750lb payload and 9400lb tow rating. I mainly tow in Ontario and upstate New York, so there are hills but no mountains. I pull the trailer fine at 60mph (but never faster), but you do feel cross winds and I did switch to LT tires because the weak sidewalls on the P tires from the factory (why do they sell trucks with them?!).

Yep this was "discussed" on another thread. Can it do it? Yes. Should it? Probably not the best idea in the long term. I can drive nails with a 2x4 in a pinch but prefer a hammer...

[SilverEscape]

We tow a 5500# loaded Jayco with a 771# tongue weight with our F-150 SCrew with the MaxTow option. We are close to our rear GAWR and our payload (which is about the same as yours). MaxTow gives us an 11,200 pound tow capacity and I believe a higher GAWR as well; our rear GAWR is 4050#.

If the dry weight of your trailer is 6800 pounds, it's likely to be over your towing limit once loaded. And with a bare minimum of 10% tongue weight, you will match our tongue weight which then with people and gear, can quickly put you over your rear axle rating and potentially GVWR.

What is your rear GAWR? And how many people are you carrying? Total weight of those people? Wanting to carry anything in the bed of the truck?

And ignore what Jayco has for dry tongue weight. It's a crock. Our trailer says 365# on the web site. We're at 771# when towing. Nowhere close you see. To tow safely, you need a minimum of 10% tongue weight. Going higher typically makes for a better tow experience.

[OhioRVMom]

I thought we had to go lower on the tongue weight to preserve payload? then again how much weight does the weight distribution hitch throw off the hitch? a possible alternative for us would be the 287BHSW. It's about 500 lbs lighter at around 6030 and a hitch on paper of 645. I'd really prefer to stay with Jayco, but this would be our last ditch attempt to stay out of canvas. it's bare bones and has a fraction of the amenities i was hoping for, but it would work.

[SkyBound]

The bottom line is the 28BHBE is too much trailer for that truck. I can guarantee you would be disappointed with the towing experience, and your truck would get punished trying to lug that thing around. The good news is that you have saved yourself a lot of trouble by coming here first to discuss things rather than be persuaded by a dumb salesman.

Working out your numbers on paper is a good idea, but only part of the total towing equation. My last truck and trailer worked on paper, only to find out that the real world application was a struggle. So many stressful memories while on the road, only getting 7mpg!


The 26BH can sleep 8 people and weighs in around 5000lb real world. That might be a good option for you. It's the most popular floor plan in the Jay Flight line.

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by OhioRVMom

I thought we had to go lower on the tongue weight to preserve payload? then again how much weight does the weight distribution hitch throw off the hitch? a possible alternative for us would be the 287BHSW. It's about 500 lbs lighter at around 6030 and a hitch on paper of 645. I'd really prefer to stay with Jayco, but this would be our last ditch attempt to stay out of canvas. it's bare bones and has a fraction of the amenities i was hoping for, but it would work.

Yes, the tongue weight will consume some of the payload. However the tongue needs to be around 15% of the total trailer weight. So if the TT weighs 7000# the tongue should be around 1000#. It doesn't have to be "exactly" 15% but too much or too little and the TT will not tow safely.

[jsallman1]

Originally Posted by OhioRVMom

I thought we had to go lower on the tongue weight to preserve payload? then again how much weight does the weight distribution hitch throw off the hitch? a possible alternative for us would be the 287BHSW. It's about 500 lbs lighter at around 6030 and a hitch on paper of 645. I'd really prefer to stay with Jayco, but this would be our last ditch attempt to stay out of canvas. it's bare bones and has a fraction of the amenities i was hoping for, but it would work.

Your weight distribution hitch wont remove payload from the truck, nor do I believe it will affect tounge weight, some of the weight is simply no longer "down"force. It should shift weight from the rear axel to the front axels so it might help with the individual GAWR numbers is all.

More weight in the front does help the ride, I can attest to that. The tow home from the dealer was much worse than when we put some cargo in the front. I think the rear of the trailer doesn't bounce as much with front weight, and you ill feel every bounce in the truck.

Pull open your manual on your TV as well, you may have some concerns with front surface area of the trailer as well, if your over that you probably don't want to be at maximum numbers on the weight and tongue.

[SilverEscape]

Whatever trailer you end up with, consider the Andersen hitch. It's what we use and it weighs under 60 pounds compared to about 100 for standard WDH.

And other have answered your tongue weight questions already. But to reiterate, the tongue weight must be between 10 and 15%. Closer to 15 typically gives a better towing experience. And calculate 15% of the trailer weight when you're looking as you can't guarantee you can keep it as low as 10%. For example, there is no way I can get my trailer tongue at 10%, its just not happening. I have nothing's can redistribute to the rear of the trailer to lighten the tongue any.

I'd suggest you look at the trailer we have, the X213 (2 bunks and a hard rear slide), but since you likely have less allowable rear axle weight than I do, I'm not sure it would work for you. Possibly. You really would need to know your RAWR first (on the same sticker that has your truck payload). Remember too, if you're carrying kids, they grow and get heavier so if you're at your limits now, you'd be over your limits soon.

[Ottawasteve]

Hi Ohio, I am currently pulling an Eagle 28BHBE with a 2010 F150 as you may have read in other posts. Love the floorplan of the 28 BHBE and understand why it would be desirable for your needs. My delivered Jayco was 500 lbs more dry than the posted weights as others have mentioned.


Without the Maxtow and preferably a Heavy Duty Payload package on an F150, it will not be an enjoyable tow and towing over capacity will result in expenses that will likely not be covered under your extended warranty. I was towing a 4000lb trailer for 3 years and the Jayco for the last 2 and at my 100,000 kms service (65,000 miles) earlier this month,even though I am towing under capacity, my truck still required 2 rear shocks and 2 front struts which were fortunately covered under extended warranty.


The Max Tow and HD Payload add 15 to 20 % to towing and payload capacities (11,200 tow and 1800 lbs payload in 2010 Supercrew F150 with Maxtow) and result in a much harsher ride when unloaded due to heavier suspension components and they also suffer slightly in mpg due to lower geared rear ends.




You may wish to look at the possibility of trading your 2013 on a 2014 F150 with Max Tow and Heavy Duty Payload package as often you can transfer the extended warranty to the new vehicle. While you might incur some additional costs up front, you may save some repair costs (suspension etc.) over the life of your vehicle and have a much better towing experience over the next 10 years.

[OhioRVMom]

i appreciate all the replies and help, I truly do. But, if I said it all made 100% sense to me I'd be lying Technically I'm allowed a dry hitch weight of 770 to 1155. But with everything I am reading about keeping my trailer - I am guessing - about 2,000 lbs below max tow rating of 7700 lbs, and the dry hitch weights typically being 550 to 800 lbs, I'm "assuming" that my hitch weight needs to be 500 give or take (based on cutting 2,000 lbs off the max trailer weight).. 500 doesn't leave much in options. most of what i am seeing that are desirable are 650 to 800 on paper.

now payload - I was also told that the dry hitch has to be added to the pay load as does the WDH, which means 800 give or take when our payload is only 1582 meaning we can only have about 750 ish lbs in the truck and probably less. people dog and a cooler are likely going to wipe out at least 750. which means we can't put a feather in the bed. or we take 2 vehicles. I got really frustrated when I was reading the lower weight trailers (5000 lb or so) could still have a 700+ lb dry hitch.

I am really sorry but my head is still swimming. And I hate our truck right now. LOL. seriously. I'm only half joking on top of it all, everyone is saying the hitch weight on paper is far underestimated so how in the *####* can one make a educated decision without towing a tent attached to a rubber band attached to the tail of the truck. That should be light enough.

[OhioRVMom]

>>>only slightly frustrated<<<

[SilverEscape]

Also, according to the 2013 Ford towing guide, your max tongue weight is 1130 pounds if using a WDH. https://www.fleet.ford.ca/resources/...Tgde_Oct19.pdf That link is from a Canadian site but it's not a Canada specific tow guide.

I'd check your receiver on the truck just in case too. If it has a lower sticker tongue weight than the towing guide, then you need to go by it.

[SilverEscape]

I understand your frustration as well. We bought our trailer figuring we'd be able to tow it with our SUV with a 500 tongue weight max. Figured if we kept the trailer at 5000#, we'd keep the tongue at 10% and if the dry hitch weight was 365#, that should be no problem, right? Wrong.

After we bought it, we found out that even when we remove the propane, battery and spare tire, that the tongue is still over 500#. The dry hitch weight is a useless number to go by. It is a number that is the dry hitch weight of a trailer with NO options (I swear it's even without the mandatory customer value package!), no propane, no spare tire, no battery, no power tongue jack. If you have any options added onto that trailer, it is bringing up the dry hitch weight, then add all the things you actually need on the tongue, and it's much heavier. Sometimes you can juggle the interior load to lighten the tongue a bit, but again, you can't get it too light. And in my trailer, I just don't have anything heavy enough to move to the back to make a difference.

I got lucky in some ways, in that in my unluckiness of having to sell our SUV and buy a truck, a couple days before we bought our F-150, I had remembered reading about payload. So I started looking at stickers and realized that in the Platinum model I wanted, they were around 1000-1100 pounds of payload and I knew that wasn't going to fly. I discovered the Max Tow package, and frantically searched for a Platinum with that package and we ended up having to drive 5 hours to go get it as they couldn't get me one locally. Coincidentally buying it in the same city we had bought our trailer in a month before. LOL

Oh, and our local Ford sales guy told me I was crazy, that I did not need the Max Tow package and that the Max Tow package did not increase payload (wrong!). He said that ours could tow 9600# I think it was, without the package, and I was fine. He also said that the tongue weight didn't count against payload (wrong!) and he'd never actually seen a yellow sticker before...so shows you how much he knew and how much he didn't care if we were safe. And he's been selling these trucks for close to 20 years.

[Camper_bob]

I know your frustrations, I've been there; you probably read about it in the other discussion. You can see in my post count that I'm an active member, and MANY of those posts are related to discussions just like this (I've been on BOTH sides). And those don't even count the hours of research I have done, and personal discussions I've had with people face-to-face who I would consider professional experts in the subject.

Here's a simple way to get a concrete answer: Take your whole family in the truck as if you were ready to go except for the trailer to a CAT (or other) scale and weigh it. Take the GVWR from your truck's door jamb and subtract the scale weight. That's your available payload. Period.

Take that available payload and subtract 100# for the Weight Distribution Hitch you will need (a little heavy maybe, but a good round estimate). Now take that figure and divide by .13. Example: if your available payload calculated above is 500 lbs, then take 500 divided by .13 (13% tongue weight). This will give you 3846; that is the weight your trailer can be without exceeding the GVWR of the truck assuming a 13% tongue weight (which is the minimum I would use if I were you).

You could also take a look at your rear axle rating ("GAWR RR" on your door placard) and use that number as an absolute maximum.

As I said, I know you're frustrated, but listen to what's being said in these discussions. Most of these people have been doing this a while, and many of us have been in your shoes (after purchase in my case).

I know where your husband is coming from too (I was there and fought like mad to stay there; I LOVED my GMC, it was my first new truck). But there is a significant difference between putting pen to paper and putting rubber to the road. Just because the paper calculations (based on assumptions that may or may not be accurate) work out, doesn't mean it should be done or can be done comfortably.

BTW, I'm the user you're talking about; 1-2 trips a month, 200-600 miles round-trip, no mountains, some hills, one major trip a year (yet to go on one of those, but have one planned for the fall).

[SouthCo]

A little frustration now is better than frustration after you have a truck and a camper and realize they're not a good match... But I do feel for you. It takes some research. So hang in there.