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Old 07-01-2020, 08:26 PM   #1
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2016 White Hawk 24RDB - 12v power from trailer connection but not aux. battery

Good Evening all.

Tonight while getting my White Hawk ready for this weekend, I had both of my slides out at the storage lot while putting stuff away.

As I was getting ready to leave, I got the big slide in, but as soon as I touched the button for the little slide, I lost all power.

We were in my girlfriends car, not the tow rig, so we drove home, I swapped cars, and went back with my tools and jumper cables. I verified 12.6 volts at the battery. I checked the connections at the battery, made sure the fittings were crimped, checked the chassis ground at the nose, and even peeked in the junction box at the front. I even hooked jumper cables to the positive wires, and the ground cable directly to a bolt running through the chassis. Still no power.

I plugged the trailer connection into my tow rig, and immediately had power/lights/water pump. I was able to get the small slide in with no problem.

I checked all of the fuses and breakers in the panel next to the front door, and found nothing obviously wrong. I dont know if this camper has a main circuit breaker for the house battery, but I could not find anything obvious.

Has anyone here ever lost 12v power from their house battery, but still had 12v power through their trailer connection? Just for the sake of being thorough, I brought the house battery home and stuck it on the charger.

Thankfully, I purchased the extended warranty and also have a 30 day limited warranty from the dealer. I was just wondering if there was something easy I could check. Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2020, 08:32 AM   #2
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What was the condition of the battery fuse under the trailer nose?
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Old 07-02-2020, 09:14 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by muckinfuss View Post
What was the condition of the battery fuse under the trailer nose?
I assumed there was a fusible link somewhere but was unaware of its location...it was getting dark and I wasn't sure what to look for; I will check again here soon.
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Old 07-02-2020, 09:40 AM   #4
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If that fuse is blown, consider the following....the dealer should measure the current draw on your slides when operating in both in and out movements. High current can be caused by misalignment or other 'drag'. Also, that fuse is notorious for giving up when the power jack is over extended or pulled up beyond the stop line. Three solutions to that: don't overextend, or carry a box of 30 amp fuses, or what I did, get a 30 amp circuit breaker in the blade fuse design format. They fit perfectly and come in manual or automatic reset designs.
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Old 07-02-2020, 09:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by muckinfuss View Post
If that fuse is blown, consider the following....the dealer should measure the current draw on your slides when operating in both in and out movements. High current can be caused by misalignment or other 'drag'. Also, that fuse is notorious for giving up when the power jack is over extended or pulled up beyond the stop line. Three solutions to that: don't overextend, or carry a box of 30 amp fuses, or what I did, get a 30 amp circuit breaker in the blade fuse design format. They fit perfectly and come in manual or automatic reset designs.
I appreciate the insight. If I had worded my search correctly the 1st time, this thread would not exist. As I read, it is a very common issue and a lot of people have suggested the very same thing you did, to replace the fuse with a breaker. Now I just have to find the fuse.
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