2017 Jayco 24RBS outdoor sink faucet leaking

[whit66]

I have a 2017 24RBS with a slide out sink and stove top. I have had TT in the RV shop twice because the water lines leak at the faucet connection under the sink. Now this is frustrating, has anyone else experienced this issue?

If so how did you remedy the problem?

Thank you

[bearcat77]

We had the same problem. Every time you move the sink in and out you are putting tension on the water hoses, which causes them to loosen a little bit and strips the threads on the faucet. We had the faucet replaced, had 90 degree elbows added under the faucet, and rerouted the water lines a bit, so they move more freely in and out. Had it done at the end of last season, so haven’t tested it more than once, but it looks like a better setup now.


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[bill777x]

I had the same issue on mine too, flooded under my bunks real good once. I went to Home Depot and bought 2 90 degree Pex faucet fittings and installed them in place of the straight fittings that it had. I also put two 1/2 inch rubber insulated clamps about 2 inches or so away from the fittings and screwed them to the edge of the drawer so the hoses can't move when opening or closing it. I had to use the rubber seals out of the originals to make it work with the faucet stems but it has worked fine for a year now. I still check them every time I use it but they have stayed tight so far.
Now, not to hijack your thread, does anybody have a fix for the sink drain dragging on the gas struts when opening or closing? I'm sure the bottom of the sink is going to break one of these days, probably right after my warranty runs out in August. There's nowhere else to attach them due to their design so I may just do away with them and install barrel bolts to hold it shut like I've seen on some other manufacturers trailers.

[wwt]

Yes! Our's started leaking last fall. What I found is the leak is where the rubber hose connects to the fitting on the faucet inlets. The hose diameter is too large for the fitting. The hose clamp can just barely clamp it enough to prevent leaking and then after moving the sink in and out eventually stretches the hose and it leaks.
The fitting that threads onto the faucet inlets is made for PEX tubing and I think PEX is smaller than 1/2 inch ID. The rubber hose is 1/2 inch ID. Maybe I can find a slightly smaller rubber hose?
I have not found a solution yet but I will say if I get frustrated like i did last fall I'm going to rip it all out and use the space for a storage compartment.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by bill777x

snip...... bought 2 90 degree Pex faucet fittings and installed them in place of the straight fittings that it had. I also put two 1/2 inch rubber insulated clamps about 2 inches or so away from the fittings and screwed them to the edge of the drawer so the hoses can't move when opening or closing it.....snip

Could you post a pic of your fix..., sounds like a good solution.

I removed my stove/sink drawer when I took delivery of the TT in favor of the additional cargo space, so I didn't have the opportunity to give the stove/sink drawer a good workout.

Bob

[24rbs]

Had mine removed needed the storage room

[NismoGriff]

Mine started leaking the first time we used it. I just keep an eye on the connections, hand tightening them every time I use it. This spring I plan to change the faucet and come up with a more permanent fix.

[bill777x]

Here's the picture of my mod, the 90 degree pex parts are available about anywhere. I doubled the hose clamps to make sure the hose ends won't leak and because the stainless pex clamps won't work with this tubing. The copper ones may or may not but I only have the stainless ones with the little ears that go with the rachet pex tool.

[wwt]

Originally Posted by bill777x

Attachment 37234
Here's the picture of my mod, the 90 degree pex parts are available about anywhere. I doubled the hose clamps to make sure the hose ends won't leak and because the stainless pex clamps won't work with this tubing. The copper ones may or may not but I only have the stainless ones with the little ears that go with the rachet pex tool.

Did the rubber hoses fit tighter on the brass pex fitting vs the plastic fitting the factory installed?

[bill777x]

wwt, I didn’t think they really fit the hose any better when I put them on but the double gear clamps cured that. Technically the tubing isn’t Pex so that’s probably why. I couldn’t find any other fitting locally that would fit the faucet stems and still make a 90 degree turn immediately after either. I also had to reuse the rubber gasket from the originals to make the faucet connection tight too by the way. Mines been hooked up this way since last spring with no leaking so it seems like it’s fixed now.
Mine always loosened up where the fitting attached to the faucet due to the hoses moving around and dragging on the gas struts so that’s why I also added the clamps by the fittings. My next order of business is deleting the struts before they break the bottom of my sink. The drain snags them every time it opens and closes. The outside kitchen was a must have for me so I’ll make it work one way or another.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by bill777x

wwt, I didn’t think they really fit the hose any better when I put them on but the double gear clamps cured that......snip

Just thinking out loud......,

I wonder if some combination of steel braided hoses and compatible fittings would improve reliability? Possibly a means of routing/supporting longer steel braided hoses that eliminates any movement/stress at the faucet fittings.

Incorporate two SharkBite connectors in lieu of the two existing plastic PEX "T" connectors (@ blue/red PEX lines) where the two existing hoses connect to accommodate a steel braided hose connection.

The SharkBite connector would also provide a means of shutting the outside sink water off without shutting the whole TT plumbing system down in the event of a leak.



https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182485

Just throwing some ideas around.

Bob

[wwt]

I think I will try what bill777x did. Last fall I looked at different pex fittings and noticed the rubber seal was different than what was on the factory fittings. I didn't think to swap them.....brilliant!

[wwt]

Bob, your saying replace the pex T connectors at the back of the compartment with a T connector having a threaded compression connection and then connect a braided hose with compression fittings on both ends? I like that idea to.
I think you got the hot fix. Use the T connector shown and this hose may be long enough to reach the faucet.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-W...ine/1000011700

[Rustic Eagle]

wwt,

Yes......, just slide the cut PEX water lines into the SharkBite ends, remove the nut/brass collar (don't need) and attach a steel braided hose (similar to what I did with my toilet in-line PEX hose). The steel braided hose connectors come with rubber gaskets.



I've seen various steel braided hose lengths (12", 20", 30") and connector thread sizes, but one could also connect two together and create a desired length.

Bob

[wwt]

Yep. I really think this will work. I would still use clamps to hold the hoses up and away from the gas struts. I'm excited to try this but probably will wait for warmer weather.
Now, I hope the OP, whit66, will see this.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by wwt

snip......Use the T connector shown and this hose may be long enough to reach the faucet.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Homewerks-W...ine/1000011700

Yes.

If the steel braided hose's straight connection to the faucet is an issue, one can add a 90 degree fitting at the faucet then connect the steel braided hose.

The following pic will give those not familiar with our 24RBS the existing PEX "T" connection location of the two outside sink water lines we are discussing:



Bob

[andrewat]

I just dealt with this issue on our 27BHS. For me, it was that the hose was coming loose where it was clamped to the connector on the sink. I just bought a set of single ear clamps just like the ones Jayco used along with a clamp wrench and put a new one on. I'm sure I will have to do that several times a year. But, so far it's working.

Really bad design if you ask me. I love our camper and I love having that sink out there. But the fact that the hoses are required to move and twist every time you open it means that there is not a fool-proof solution. It will continue to leak if you don't keep an eye on it. I don't care what fix you put in.

This is the clamp kit I bought if you're looking for one.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Cookdad]

[Mbranscum]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

Yes.

If the steel braided hose's straight connection to the faucet is an issue, one can add a 90 degree fitting at the faucet then connect the steel braided hose.

The following pic will give those not familiar with our 24RBS the existing PEX "T" connection location of the two outside sink water lines we are discussing:



Bob

Bob. What did you do to cap your sink water lines?

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Mbranscum

Bob. What did you do to cap your sink water lines?

I used a couple plastic threaded plugs (i.e.; HWH plastic drain plugs)......, also made it easy for draining the unused faucet water lines when winterizing/de-winterizing. I also removed the white in-line p-trap and put a threaded plastic cap on the black pipe "T".

A few days ago I removed the two water lines completely freeing up the area a little, and also eliminated the faucet water line draining task when winterizing/de-winterizing.



Bob