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05-12-2020, 04:40 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Bayfield
Posts: 389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polariste
Maybe you should get portable solar panels, they offer a better performance because they are easy to aim at the sun. This is what I have and I am very happy with these. They are not the flexible type. Renogy makes good solar panels you can join them together with hinges and some aluminium legs. I use the solar connector on my Jayflight 21QB and it works fine.
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I can't argue with this logic. Instead, I'll just say that with all the open acreage on the roof, more is better. Get a "suitcase" kit that you have to fiddle with on the ground, including anchoring, aiming, and connecting, or just put more panels on the roof, set it and forget it. One of the best things about a roof installation is that it works ALL THE TIME when the sun is up. No shore power readily available between trips? No problem. Solar on the roof is relentless. Second best? Total setup time when you arrive at your destination = 0 minutes 0 seconds. Is your site a bit shaded? Wire them all in parallel, and each will perform to the best of its ability, and overkill is the rule. Good, reliable panels run about $100 each. To upgrade from a 200 watt kit to a 400 watt kit costs, wait for it, about $200 +/-.
For absolute sure, if you invest the time and effort in a freestanding kit and adjust the aim several times a day, it will perform better watt for watt. But I go camping to be a lazy bum: swim, boat, grill, inhale smoke, and so on...not to mention the hiking, biking and so on. Note that I didn't mention fiddling with solar panels.
Whatever works for you...for sure. But remember, if you ever get sick of using them as portables, you can buy some mounting brackets and anchor them to the roof along with a couple more. They can be mix and match...run what you brung and add a couple more of any type and output. Connect in parallel and you're good to go.
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05-12-2020, 05:20 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: RV
Posts: 893
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I have the same trailer in a Starcraft (by Jayco) and simply don't want to mount panels on the roof. If I ever decided on solar, I'll put a ladder rack on my truck and mount some panels on it.
__________________
Sold RV.... downsized to a 6x12 cargo trailer with Starlink and mini-split A/C. Easy to tow at 1200# - real happy now.
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05-13-2020, 09:46 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 69
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For solar panel roof mounts, AM Solar out of Springfield Oregon has the best mounts. They're expensive, but allow you to tilt the panels, if for no other reason than to wash the roof under them.
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01-10-2021, 09:37 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 4
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It is look for the sticker. Mine is by the door.
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01-10-2021, 03:14 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 1,677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmoore13
I can't argue with this logic. Instead, I'll just say that with all the open acreage on the roof, more is better. Get a "suitcase" kit that you have to fiddle with on the ground, including anchoring, aiming, and connecting, or just put more panels on the roof, set it and forget it. One of the best things about a roof installation is that it works ALL THE TIME when the sun is up. No shore power readily available between trips? No problem. Solar on the roof is relentless. Second best? Total setup time when you arrive at your destination = 0 minutes 0 seconds. Is your site a bit shaded? Wire them all in parallel, and each will perform to the best of its ability, and overkill is the rule. Good, reliable panels run about $100 each. To upgrade from a 200 watt kit to a 400 watt kit costs, wait for it, about $200 +/-.
For absolute sure, if you invest the time and effort in a freestanding kit and adjust the aim several times a day, it will perform better watt for watt. But I go camping to be a lazy bum: swim, boat, grill, inhale smoke, and so on...not to mention the hiking, biking and so on. Note that I didn't mention fiddling with solar panels.
Whatever works for you...for sure. But remember, if you ever get sick of using them as portables, you can buy some mounting brackets and anchor them to the roof along with a couple more. They can be mix and match...run what you brung and add a couple more of any type and output. Connect in parallel and you're good to go.
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This video shows you how to build a solar suitcase using Renogy panels that you could always break down and install on the roof, or use as extra - https://youtu.be/Ng7RedXwOp0
__________________
--
Cheers
Colby
Eastern Ontario, Canada
2018 Jayco 212QB
2020 Ford F150 SuperCrew
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01-10-2021, 03:23 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 2,933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmoore13
I can't argue with this logic. Instead, I'll just say that with all the open acreage on the roof, more is better. Get a "suitcase" kit that you have to fiddle with on the ground, including anchoring, aiming, and connecting, or just put more panels on the roof, set it and forget it. One of the best things about a roof installation is that it works ALL THE TIME when the sun is up. No shore power readily available between trips? No problem. Solar on the roof is relentless. Second best? Total setup time when you arrive at your destination = 0 minutes 0 seconds. Is your site a bit shaded? Wire them all in parallel, and each will perform to the best of its ability, and overkill is the rule. Good, reliable panels run about $100 each. To upgrade from a 200 watt kit to a 400 watt kit costs, wait for it, about $200 +/-.
For absolute sure, if you invest the time and effort in a freestanding kit and adjust the aim several times a day, it will perform better watt for watt. But I go camping to be a lazy bum: swim, boat, grill, inhale smoke, and so on...not to mention the hiking, biking and so on. Note that I didn't mention fiddling with solar panels.
Whatever works for you...for sure. But remember, if you ever get sick of using them as portables, you can buy some mounting brackets and anchor them to the roof along with a couple more. They can be mix and match...run what you brung and add a couple more of any type and output. Connect in parallel and you're good to go.
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I agree for most of the time. This summer the only thing that kept my batteries going was the ability to chase the sun with portable panels. In four of the five places we stayed we were heavily shaded. I was running 50 feet of cable to find patches of sun.
__________________
2017 JayFlight 21QB
2021 Ford F150 SCrew 3.5 Eco, 157”, 3.55, Tow Pkg
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01-11-2021, 10:35 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 51
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I'm late to the party but consider your use case and maybe go lithium first. You'll have to pretty much redo everything once you lithium anyway. Just a thought.
__________________
23' 2019 Jayfeather BHM
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04-19-2022, 03:10 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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2022 212QB “Wired for Solar” question.
Hello folks, just picked up my new camper. It says that it is wired for solar. It has the gland on the roof, a sticker where they say to mount the charge controller. Apparently the wiring is supposed to run from the gland to the controller then down to the battery. My question, is how do I locate which wires are the ones for this ?
9A14D1C6-14C2-4DB9-ACA0-0B7962062809.jpg
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04-19-2022, 04:41 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,367
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The two that go to the system can be confirmed as positive and negative with a multi-meter. The ones that go to the roof may be marked but once you connect them to a panel you should also get a positive and negative reading. Or maybe that marked them or colored them. But even if marked or colored I would check with a meter before I hooked them to a MPPT.
__________________
2017 SLX 195RB
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit L 5.7L V8
Andersen WDH hitch, Renogy 100 AH Lithium &
200 Watts solar panels from Renogy
Prev. '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, gas 3.6 V6
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04-19-2022, 06:27 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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Soooo, if I test at the gland and it reads hot , that means it’s ready to have the charge controller installed ?Then from the controller to the panels on the roof ?
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04-20-2022, 05:35 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbug
Soooo, if I test at the gland and it reads hot , that means it’s ready to have the charge controller installed ?Then from the controller to the panels on the roof ?
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Yes, be sure to read the instructions on the charge controller. You should connect battery before panels. Make sure the panels are covered prior to connecting. It's really simple. Don't overthink. You've got this.
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04-20-2022, 08:53 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Mapleton
Posts: 4,367
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To expand and hopefully clarify my prior post. If you have a solar panel on the roof connected to the gland then you can tell which wire is positive with a multi-meter before you connect it to a controller (pwm or Mppt.) If no panels on the roof then there is no source of power to measure positive or negative in the wires.
Alternatively, the wires going down into the wall should be hooked up if it is fully wired up to the 12 volt power system and unless there is a fuse missing or breaker off there should be positive and negative there also. Or maybe no wires go down to anything and you will have to run them yourself.
Before you go further take a look a few "how to install solar" youtubes and maybe a little reading to make sure you know what you are doing and need to do to make this work.
Here is a link to some simple solar system setups and info:
https://mowgli-adventures.com/200-wa...iring-diagram/
__________________
2017 SLX 195RB
2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit L 5.7L V8
Andersen WDH hitch, Renogy 100 AH Lithium &
200 Watts solar panels from Renogy
Prev. '14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland, gas 3.6 V6
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04-23-2022, 08:53 AM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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Thank you very much, I will give it a try and report back.
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04-29-2022, 09:45 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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What is the cluster of wires and flashing in the pass through of my 2022 212QB ?
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04-30-2022, 09:39 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 1,073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbug
What is the cluster of wires and flashing in the pass through of my 2022 212QB ?
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Can you post a picture?
__________________
2017 Eagle 291RSTS
2017 Chevy Silverado Duramax 2500
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04-30-2022, 10:26 AM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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04-30-2022, 10:41 AM
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#37
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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For Marker lights when turning. Thanks
Never saw the writing underneath.
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04-30-2022, 10:47 AM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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So, back to my original problem…
I have the Solar gland on the roof. The sticker on the wall where controller will go. Batteries hooked up and charged.
I tested the wires from the gland, NOTHING. Shouldn’t I get 12vdc ?
I placed a Solar panel with a controller installed, the attached it to the gland, NOTHING. Huh ?
Are the wires cut inside the wall ? Or not connected to the battery ?
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04-30-2022, 03:03 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 1,073
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The wires in my rig were not connected until I cut open the wall and installed the controller. In the hole was wires to the roof and wires to the batteries. Mine was prewired to the roof, no solar panels on the roof as delivered. I installed the panels and the controller.
__________________
2017 Eagle 291RSTS
2017 Chevy Silverado Duramax 2500
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04-30-2022, 06:10 PM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Meridian
Posts: 12
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So the wires were cut ? 2 to the roof and 2 to the battery ?
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